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View Full Version : 99 2.5 Build 15grand budget.


rangerdanger
10-31-2009, 11:00 AM
Gonna rebuild my 2.5L block and do this one right, gonna do a 15g budget, and see what happens, my hp goal is anything over 500hp, and i want to run atleast a 10 sec 1/4 mile.

Forged weisco pistons, forged crower rods, totalseal topless top ring set, sticking with the standard bore, all new of the obvious, bearings, seals, gaskets, high volume melling oil pump, all arp bolts, including head studs, and main studs and what ever else i can find arp bolts or studs for, not sure how many lb injectors i should shoot for, Im thinking a big to medium sized turbo not sure what would help me achive my goal, im gonna get an all aluminum head from esslinger with the works, biggest valves, and the 2277 cam. Gonna have the 5speed tranny regeard for the truck, and im gonna beef the crap out of the rearend, like put a locker and all that good stuff in it, gonna get a giant ported and huge tb intake mani, prolly jesses better turbo header, stage 3 or 4 clutch and pp, water/meth injection.

Few things i already have,
90mm MAF
ARP head studs
FMIC
BOV
Block, sending it off to be cleaned up.

If you could throw me some input on things, mabey this isnt the way to get the fastest. I wanna hear everybodys ideas. This is prolly gonna take me a little bit because i set my budget so high, but i want to make this thing as fast as possible.

Thanks!

speedaddict
10-31-2009, 12:47 PM
For the 2.5L i couldn't find any standerd bore piston's. I went with the wiseco .030 over. same rods/and rings. At racer walsh in jacksonville, my total came out to like 992.50 for the 3.

Look into the billit stroker crank, that might be a benefit. As for injectors roadkill on here, went with 95lb injectors, his goal was 450hp with a 2.5L also.

Not sure on the head or turbo, prolly talk to jess or someone about those. As far as running 10's in the quarter, def, an 8.8 locked with cal-tracks and some et slicks.

Idk what kind of water meth injection your looking at, but snow performance makes a kit for obd2 trucks running 15-30psi of boost, round $500 i think.
That should give you an idea.

PvtRanger
10-31-2009, 09:06 PM
10 sec good luck might need to throw a fat buddie in the back to get it to hook up then have him jump out after you launch out of the hole

speedaddict
10-31-2009, 09:13 PM
I was thinking about this while i was piddlin with the truck, your defenitly gonna be wanting like a 150shot of laughin gas to get you into full boost. Idk 150 may be to much havent messed with it on 4bangers.

Our sbc 350's we spray 150 all day long on stock motor lol. my buddy had 07 chevy 1500, ran it down the road and hit the button, lets just say he had to buy another intake. Sure dont make em like they use too. Sorry for the hijack

rangerdanger
11-01-2009, 12:01 AM
10 sec good luck might need to throw a fat buddie in the back to get it to hook up then have him jump out after you launch out of the hole

lmfao

TURBO Ranger
11-01-2009, 01:33 AM
The spray is good for the reason that it chills the inlet temp way down as well as add more oxygen. Go with lots of meth injection as well as maybe lookin into a 4 link, but to get to the tens you're gonna want like 15 inch slicks to get enuf bite off the line especialy with the 5spd. Otherwise you'll go like:peelout: when the turbo goes:turbob: , and all the people watchin will be like:hehe: and you'll be like:banghead:
Or you could rear mount the engine with a VW transaxle, or you could try to hook it up for AWD like a GMC Syclone

rangerdanger
11-01-2009, 11:06 AM
has anyone ever made a ranger awd? that would be sweet!

speedaddict
11-01-2009, 12:19 PM
Just start with a 4wd and beef up the 4wd parts. That way you lock it in when you run down the truck. Thats my theory

PvtRanger
11-01-2009, 09:03 PM
you could put a rear end from a 1-ton dually then you have strength and traction....that thing would look mean....and ugly

D94R
11-01-2009, 09:48 PM
10 sec good luck might need to throw a fat buddie in the back to get it to hook up then have him jump out after you launch out of the hole

Getting the Ranger to plant the rear end and dead hook up out of the hole isn't that hard. But to do it "right" means ditching the entire stock rear suspension. Setting up a proper 4-link (not 4 bar) to the Rangers center of gravity, tuning the squat/anti squat, and having the proper rear coil/coil-over pressure is going to be key.

I'd almost think that back-halving the Ranger is going to be required to setup the 4-link properly. Then, you might as well box the frame to keep torsional twist to a minimum.






About the AWD idea. You could transplant the drive train from an AWD Explorer into the Ranger. But I have no idea how long the parts would last and what power they are rated for.

rangerdanger
11-01-2009, 10:00 PM
i think im gonna pull the bed, do a four link and do a coil spring setup, get an 8.8 rearend and send it off to have it built to handle lots of power, ditch the awd idea thats gonna be to much work. Im looking for a 98-01 ranger now so i can get started on this project, im prolly gonna pull the whole body of the chasis and just build the chasis, box it all in, and setup the whole suspension.

Am i gonna be better off with an extended cab or a reg cab truck to do this project in?

James
11-01-2009, 10:51 PM
There is no AWD transfercase that bolts to the Ranger tranny. The true AWD Expos were only the 5.0s. The V6s had Control Trac which is E-4wd. It has 2wd, 4Auto, and 4Lo. 4Auto is primarily 2wd, but uses front and rear speed sensors to detect wheelspin and engage the front axle when extra traction is needed. I've done a bit of searching, and AFAIK no one has made an AWD Ranger without a 5.0 swap.

Am i gonna be better off with an extended cab or a reg cab truck to do this project in?

Regular cabs are lighter.

mastersmith
11-01-2009, 11:42 PM
regular cabs are lighter, but extended cabs are much nicer if your going to put much of a rollcage in it.
Ought to be a cool build though, GOOD LUCK

TURBO Ranger
11-01-2009, 11:59 PM
Hey, the AWD was kind of a joke lol. However, the VW transaxle would work really well I think. You'll have all the weight on the rear tires, those trannies will take a lot, and you're going to mod the frame anyway right? I had an idea once to try to put an engine with a FWD transaxle in the middle of the truck lengthwise, and run the axles as driveshafts. youd need to build a locker or suthin to make it hook, but in that case an ext cab would be ideal.

rangergt
11-02-2009, 10:24 AM
There is nothing wrong with adding a 4 link and big tires if that's what you really want. If your just trying to find traction, personally I think it's way over kill especially for the power level your going for. A turbo 4 with 500hp will make less than 400 ft lbs of torque. A properly tuned leaf spring setup is very effective. Too much traction is just gonna bog the motor down on launch. Traction is not only all about the rear suspension, it's the whole package. Having a front suspension that'll help transfer weight. The rear tire height is also important because a big side wall helps absorb the shock load on launch. The clutch is also critical in helping get off the line adjustable would be best but $$$. There are plenty of V8 rangers running 10 sec with a leaf spring setup and 10" tires and you'll have the less weight in the front than they do so a 4 cylinder should work better for traction.

You can forget using the stock transmission, even if it lived which I doubt it will at that power level if your planning a lot of track time you'll required an explosion proof bell housing as well as an sfi clutch pressure plate and flywheel.

Boxing the frame is a good idea but you will really gain torsional strength from a properly installed rollbar or cage.

I like your plan for the engine should have no problem making 500 hp reliably and still have good street manners. I hate to say this but If you start getting into all the chassis work with 4 link and such (and you will require a stronger trans and clutch setup) your $15 000 budget is going to became $30 000 in a hurry.

My advice is do a lot of research then decide on your game plan and stick to it, because it's expensive to alter your plans mid project. Be realistic about the parts you need because you want it to be reliable as well as fast.

rangerdanger
11-02-2009, 03:47 PM
RangerGT right now im just gathering ideas and doing more reasearch into it just like you say, ive already got my lil toy 2.3turbo ranger, hehe now its time for a porsche killer.. =) and i hear what your saying as far as the suspension, im gonna keep the leafs, drop an 8.8 in have it built with a locker and what not, get a custom driveshaft and tranny and bellhousing, and a good strong clutch, also a good set of coil springs and shocks for the front. You think with the rearend i can just box the back in and build a few crossmembers to keep it from twisting or would i be better off just boxing the back of the chassis, im not sure what the best bet is going to be, so this doesnt do what you say and become a 30,000 dollar pjt.


One thing iam gonna spend 2 or 3 grand on is the computer and tuning. Ive been looking at greddys e-manage ultimate and the aem ecu, has anyone ever played with these on a ranger motor, and if anyone knows of a site with info about it can they post it so i can check it out, i havent been able to find anything on them, thinking about calling them up and seeing what they can do for me. And im wondering if that would be worth it...

rangergt
11-02-2009, 04:51 PM
Boxing the frame first would be the ideal thing to do but the thing that is going to add the most strength to the frame is additional crossmembers especially if they are triangulated some how. If both are done that would be better. A roll cage or roll bar would be the best thing for strength. when I added my rollcage it was unbelievable how much stiffer the truck had become. My truck does not have the frame boxed. I am not going to do it either and I plan on running fast. I'm not to concerned about it not being strong enough because I believe it is but yeah boxing it would have been a good idea. Sometimes you gotta keep moving forward otherwise you'll never finish a project. Next project will get the improvements.

I am going to use the aem ems. I just liked the features it had for my application. For one thing I had to have something capable of running a DIS. Aem only sells through dealers then that dealer is your tech support not aem directly. Aem has forums that list dealers so you can find one near you then contact them. I have no experience with it yet but hopefully soon.

rangerdanger
11-02-2009, 06:54 PM
Thats the route i wanna go is the AEM ems, do you know if you can use the stock sensors, or if you get one do you have to buy all of AEM's sensors?

And what is gonna be better for this kind of pj, a reg cab or ext cab ranger? ik the reg's are lighter... not sure what truck to be looking for.

rangergt
11-02-2009, 11:08 PM
The only sensors that were recommended for me to buy were the map sensor for obvious reasons and the AIT sensor. Otherwise all the stock sensors were useable. I will know more about this this week as I am going to see the aem dealer/tuner this week. I'll update you on what he say's. The guy I'm dealing with is good. I've talked to him briefly, he's a straight shooter and his cars run clean. Otherwise I wouldn't be talkin' to him.

As far as the truck you need regular cab or supercab it really is personal preferance. Yeah the regular cab is lighter but the supercab will hide a rollcage better (somebody already posted that). Again decide what the goals and purpose of your truck is and that should give you your answer.

TURBO Ranger
11-03-2009, 12:05 AM
Im going to go with the squirt. MS2 will control ignition(TFI, DIS, any electronic), fuel injection, and boost if need be. It can also control launch control and nitrous I believe. It'll also control everything through stock sensors and has the MAP built in. Talk to Turbo Dad on TF and he can hook you up with any setup and a pretty close tune. I haven't used it yet, but am in the process of getting one. Get a reg. cab tho, supers look kinda stupid. Right now, Im using Mopar SS rear springs and they hook up unbelievably well. My dad turned me onto them, and they are the s*#t. It's about $250 for both springs brand new, and they're worth every penny.

rangergt
11-04-2009, 12:28 AM
Yeah, the mopar ss springs work great and very simple. Caltracs are also a good working setup although I'm using southside machine lift bars (no longer in business).

TURBO Ranger
11-04-2009, 12:36 AM
I agree tho, leafs are so much simpler, and will run real fast if you setup right. Luckily, I hav a good source for that. Also, with the caltracs, how much work are those to install? Ive never even seen a pair in person

rangerdanger
09-14-2011, 11:43 PM
I haven't been on here in forever, but I'm back from college.. (For now) Traded my dad the mini cooper for his 06 F-150 FX4 5.4L and im working on my AA. but anyways, I haven't forgotten about this project I still am looking for a truck and just haven't come across a good canidate yet. Ill update again when I find one.