Parts list of what you need to make 300+ RWHP

[Jesshwarren]

2.5L motor
rods= 380$
pistons= 400$
rings = 120$
http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/category/4cylinder/
----------------
If you have a 2.5L you can put a 2.3L crank in it with 2.3L rods and pistons.
2.3L Rods & pistons= 50$
crank for your block=50$
rings = 50$
____________________
60lb injectors = 250$
90mm MAF meter = 80$
255LPH FP = 70$
Xcal-2 = 300$
Turbo = 300$
Header = 200$
38MM WG = 80$
Intercooler& pipe= 180$
head studs = 100$
1035 head gasket = 54$
stge 3 clutch = 300$
--------
2.3L = 2150$
That is what you are going to need for the basics. I can promise you 300+ RWHP and up to 105+ MPH runs in the 1/4MI with a 2.3L
2.5L = 3050$
This is a 2.5L with crower rods wiesco pistons total seal rings. with the stock head a 2.3L and a 2.5L are going to run about the same.
If you had all those parts setting there it would take about 2-3 days to have your truck up and running 300+ RWHP. You will still need a boost gauge.

[freebyrd24]

Excellent list Jess! This is all Ive ever wanted to know, and to have a list of whats needed out there, with real world pricing! great job and keep up the awesome work!

[Riddle_Rob]

This is seriously all you need?
I've been sourcing out these parts and have found a few at good prices.
I just need to learn the technical part of turbo'n the engine I have the mechanical part figured out.

[Jesshwarren]

Yea that is all it takes. You can get by with less. Acually 400RWHP can be made with 60lb injectors. The stock turbo bottom end is good for 430+RWHP

[flyin]

Don't forget the small things.

Turbo
Header
Wastegate
Exhaust
Tuner
Wideband O2
Boost Gauge
Wastegate springs or controller
Fuel pump
Intercooler, misc silicone couplers and piping
Extra cash for any misc expenses that turn up

All items are not necessary but add to the bottom line and should be taken into account before starting a project

[Riddle_Rob]

Yep. I thought of all of those except one which was the Wideband O2.
I've been trying to learn turbo talk as quickly as possible so I at least know what I'm talking about before I ask for help haha. I found Garret's website to be pretty well done for teaching newbies!

[flyin]

Feel free to ask. We are here to help and learn from each other.

[freebyrd24]

Can someone explain the wideband 02 sensor? I know nothing about it. Is it necessary?

[Riddle_Rob]

Good question, I'm interested as well. Too lazy to search atm.

[rangerboy09]

where do you get the turbo? at i cant find one anywhere!
________
vaporizer pipe (http://vaporizers.net/vapor-genie)

[Jesshwarren]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holset-HY35-Turbo-OEM-Dodge-Cummins-diesel-2001-2002-at_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ015QQitemZ 250201472716QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[Riddle_Rob]

That would work good?

[D94R]

Can someone explain the wideband 02 sensor? I know nothing about it. Is it necessary?

Here is a relitively simple explanation of wideband, in comparison to a normal 'narrow' band O2 filter.

http://www.umaine.edu/MechEng/Peterson/Classes/Design/2004_5/Groups/CSC_ECU/midterm_files/image008.gif


Simply put. Narrow band reads a 1v input to adjust the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. Usually used on N/A engines where there are not as many variables to calculate to control the mixture.

Anything below Stoich simply reads as 'lean' and anything above Stoich simply reads 'rich'. There is not enough information to determine any air fuuel mixture other than the Stoich region itself. Therefore you never truely know just how lean or rich you are.


Wideband on the other hand has a 'wider' voltage range from which to recieve info. With the additional voltage range, widebands are able to correctly give you real time A/F ratios anywhere from 18.1 to 10.1 based on voltage feed back from the sensor.

[freebyrd24]

EXCELLENT explanation with excellent diagrams! Thank you very much! So can a wideband directly replace a stock 02 sensor? Does it wire in the same?

[Riddle_Rob]

Yes, same question. Or wait, doesn't the wideband plug into the bung you are supposed to have in your 3" downpipe?

[Jesshwarren]

A wideband is used only for tuning. Once the tuning is done the wideband is removed. I run 2 bungs on the down pipe.

[Riddle_Rob]

Ok, but it does plug into the bung right?

[D94R]

Physically, the wideband and narrow band O2 sensors look the same. Both thread into the same bung(s). Only difference is the output that both have.

Like Jess said, the wideband is used for tuning. Once dialed in, you use the narrow band to control ECU functions again.



The wideband needs an external source to drive the wideband, the stock ECU will not do it like it does a narrow band.



Some widebands out there though can run dual purpose and be used as a narrow band or wideband, though Im not entirely sure if this is a function of the sensor itself, or if you need the wideband's driver (control box) to send the narrow band signal to the ECU.

[Riddle_Rob]

So basically the Narrow Band O2 sensor would be your stock O2 sensor?? And this is what you run to your A/F guage?

[flyin]

the norrow band sensor is the factory type sensor that is used by your pcm to run your truck. If you hook up an air fuel gauge to it you will get a reading but The only info it can give you is either rich or lean. If you want an air/fuel gauge to be useful you must connect it to a wideband o2 sensor

[Riddle_Rob]

Ahhhh ok. So not everyone runs A/F guages then?

[Jesshwarren]

So basically the Narrow Band O2 sensor would be your stock O2 sensor?? And this is what you run to your A/F guage?

Yes that is what I run my A/F meter on. It basically monitors the o2 sensor, lets me know if the motor is running to rich to lean ect... no numbers just a general idea. Helps keep good MPG & I can see the o2 sensor is doing it's job. It helps detect a boost leak.

The A/F meter that runs off the narrow band is real helpful when it comes to monitoring when the motor goes to open loop. I tune the ECU to go to open loop at 5PSI.

Closed loop runs 14.6-1 A/F ratio. Open loop runs richer.

[rohdestlth]

hey does anyone know the part # for the ARP Head Studs

[Jesshwarren]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARP%2D151%2D4702&view=1&N=700+150+

[rohdestlth]

hey thanks that was a big help

[bruiser]

http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/FEL1035/FEL1035__23_head_gasket.html

is that the head gasket?

[Riddle_Rob]

Yep. Model is right. Fel1035. Fel-Pro 1035.
Cheaper then the one I was looking at on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320200075014&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011

[taknotes]

the 1035 head gasket does work with the 2.5s as well, right?


and bump for awesome thread

[radrangerXLT]

the 1035 head gasket does work with the 2.5s as well, right?


yes it does.

[Speedrcr]

Jess - which Total Seal Rings are you using? I was looking at the gapless top vs. the gapless 2nd. I figured the gapless second would be better for the street...little bit easier on the pistons having the gapless 2nd under pressure.

[Jesshwarren]

I am running the gapless 2nd.

[taknotes]

whats the part # for the correct fuel pump?

[Jesshwarren]

whats the part # for the correct fuel pump?

I am not sure. Any 255LPH pump for the 93-97 rangers.

[nagelandy55]

Walbro GSS340

[pongorulz]

i have basically eveything you listed, except i have a 2.3 block, and i dont have the 1035 head gasket, you think ill still be able to make 300 rwhp?\

eventually i want to swap out the trans and rear end to make make more if possible.

[Jesshwarren]

i have basically eveything you listed, except i have a 2.3 block, and i dont have the 1035 head gasket, you think ill still be able to make 300 rwhp?\

eventually i want to swap out the trans and rear end to make make more if possible.


With the stock 95 and up head you can make over 300 at 25PSI the head gasket may be the only draw back if you don't have the 1035 installed.

[pongorulz]

With the stock 95 and up head you can make over 300 at 25PSI the head gasket may be the only draw back if you don't have the 1035 installed.

im just gonna run the 87 tc head for right now, i spent all this money on the ported and rotated intakes i atleast wanna enjoy them. but while thats running, im goin to get a 97 head, and try to get it fully built, like port and polish, bigger valves, flow tested, the whole 9 yeards, whats so special about this 1035 gasket, i dont think ive ever seen it, ive just been runing the felpro

[taknotes]

felpro is the 1035 head gasket lol

[pongorulz]

ohh snap damn i totally fell in to that one. your talking about the blue felpro gasket with the metal around the cylinders

[Jesshwarren]

The Felpro 1035 is a HD head gaskert desighned for running nos.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=1925

[rohdestlth]

hey if you guys could looking on getting 60lb injectors can you point me in the right direction also walbro 255lph fuel pump and a stage 3 clutch or something like it for a 96 w/4wheel drive thanks

[fordnut71]

60 lb you can get them on ebay. also they are stock on a 5.4 lighting motor.
a 255 walbro pump. just look for 1 for a mustang. i have a BBK pump in mine.
a 3 stage clutch . i know SPEC shows 1 in there line up.

[pongorulz]

i know this is a dumb question, but is that fel1035 the part number?? i just checked the box that my gasket came in and the sticker says 8897 or something like that.

[Jesshwarren]

i know this is a dumb question, but is that fel1035 the part number?? i just checked the box that my gasket came in and the sticker says 8897 or something like that.

Yes 1035 is the part #. Sounds like you got the std. duty gasket.

[flyin]

you need to ask specifically for a felpro 1035 gasket.

[pongorulz]

which year cobra maf is the right one??

[nagelandy55]

If your looking for a 90mm MAF they are on cobra's and Lightnings. Not sure what years but any 90mm MAF should work. Try searching on ebay, there are usually some decent deals on there.

[Jesshwarren]

To make it easy I would buy a 90MM ford racing meter you won't regret it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-04-F-150-LIGHTNING-MASS-AIR-METER-90MM-MUSTANG-MAF_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 QQcategoryZ33557QQihZ019QQitemZ290202017143QQrdZ1Q QsspagenameZWD1V

[taknotes]

is there anything bad with the granatelli? thats what i have

[bruiser]

nothing is wrong with it just a lil pricy and the 90mm mafs cam on the 03 04 cobras and 99-04 lightnings
how do you determin if you have a 90mm i was given a MAF but he wasnt sure what size it was its pretty big

[loridnranger]

i need to know were to get all of those parts from

[Jesshwarren]

i need to know were to get all of those parts from

www.Ebay.com, www.summitracing.com, http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/

[GSXRshowdown]

I just bought a 2000 ranger, 2wd, 2.5l with the dual plugs, i wanted to throw a turbo in it, but i never realy seen one, now that i've found this site, you have completely woo'd me into making a 11 or 12 second ranger, im prolly gunna have a ton of questions, but most of them seem to be answered in this thread, anyways, just sayin hi and thanks to everyone for their future help

[xXAvengedRangerXx]

All sounds good i cant wait to get started on my turbo ranger. ive been looking everywhere for parts for the 2.5l and couldnt find much of anything. thanks for all the help.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
98 ranger 2.5l, jet performance chip, flowmaster exhaust, k&n intake, 3/4 lowering kit

[Glasshouse]

Does this parts list apply to the 2008 Duratec 2.3L as well?

[fordnut71]

no this is for the 2.3 lima motor.

[Glasshouse]

no this is for the 2.3 lima motor.

Duratec options?

[fordnut71]

for internals,you would have to talk the guys drivng the focus. no 1 yet that i know of makes a header to fit the duratec in the ranger.

[ri06667]

Out of curiousity, once i have the xcal2 can I just swap in a maf and its just as simple as programming the change in?

[ttfiveohranger]

How much of an advantage is it to use the 2.3 turbo rotating assembly in the 2.5 block over leaving it alone in the stock short block?

[Jesshwarren]

How much of an advantage is it to use the 2.3 turbo rotating assembly in the 2.5 block over leaving it alone in the stock short block?

The reason for swapping internals to the EEC-V 2.3L/2.5L block is so the cam sensor can be used.

EEC-V blacks 95-00 are all the same.

[KAP Racing]

new to the forums and just let me say that they are awsome. ok i have a few questions i want around 400 + horse power and some decent driveabilty
what would i have to upgrade from the list and what turbo would be best for this

thanks for all the help
kap racing

[roadkill]

new to the forums and just let me say that they are awsome. ok i have a few questions i want around 400 + horse power and some decent driveabilty
what would i have to upgrade from the list and what turbo would be best for this

thanks for all the help
kap racing

for one thing alot more paper :yesnod: lol

i am trying for 450rwhp.......

billet crank
billet rods
strokeing to 2.7L
.30 over
prob going to run the Esslinger cam kit (2277) not sure yet
no a/c (less pulleys)
95lb injectors
blowoff valve
stage 3+ clutch


im sure im forgeting stuff........................

[Skyy_4life]

well i need pistons. were can i get them for $50 jess? and he rods and rings and head studs?

[bikeffun]

my name is jeff i have a 90 ranger 2.3L was wondering what would be a good way to get it up to 300rwhp

[fordnut71]

welcome jeff to turbo ranger forums.
if you pretty much stick to this list you can have 300 hp at the rear tires,maybe even a lil more if you up grade a few things, an still have driveabilty.

[bikeffun]

so what is a good place to check out turbos for my truck

[xdreamkustoms]

Ebay or your local junk yard. Try finding a Holset out of a Cummings Diesel truck. I would run something like an H1C (Jess is running that), but I have heard good things about the HX35 and up so look for something like that.

[rangerboi]

i have a 97 2.3 ranger that i want to turbo and it has 8 plugs tell me wat i need to do and wat i need to get please and thanks :didimiss:

[nagelandy55]

i have a 97 2.3 ranger that i want to turbo and it has 8 plugs tell me wat i need to do and wat i need to get please and thanks :didimiss:

First off you need to learn how to use the search function. This forum is for forced induction, not forced feeding.

[fordnut71]

get the parts listed on the 1st page an look around all the info is here on what to do.

[speedaddict]

Is there any aftermarket intakes for the 2.5L? And why is it best to use the 2.3 crank in my 2.5L? My ranger has 190k miles, and i want it to be right and not worry about tearing up after i turbo it. Also one more question, wheres the best place to buy pistons/rings/and rods?

I'm going to turbo mine, and i want to make sure its right even if i have to spend extra money.

My neighbor is running a garrett t4 on civic, he says thats about the best i can get, what would ya'll recomend running?

Thanks for such a Great site Two thumbs way up!!

[nagelandy55]

Not sure about running a T4, maybe start with a T3 or a T3/T4. Do some searching and reading and you'll answer most of your questions.

[97-ranger]

if i got everything he listed and make around 300 hp would it be ok to be a daily driver? just running around town nothing too serious.and how many miles could i get before i would have to start rebuilding things?

[Riddle_Rob]

Yep. You could daily it.
Rebuilding? Depends how hard you beat on it, how well you build it and what kind of parts you use (new/used). Could wind up being incredibly reliable.

[97-ranger]

what about t3 turbo, stock turbo header.turbo motor.stock forged pistons.stock turbo pistons.and everything else he mentioned? how many miles could i go before rebuiling my turbo?

[Riddle_Rob]

It's really hard to say. All depends on brand of turbo, how hard you beat on it, how much maintenance you put into it, if you set up your oil/cooling lines properly... too many factors to be able to guess the life of a turbo.

[speedaddict]

Riddle Rob, I'm looking at the RFL bov or the greddy, how do you like the RFL, Aint it super loud? Sorry for off topic

[Riddle_Rob]

My build isn't done yet :( BUT, I have heard many RFL's and LOVE how loud they are :)

Also, youtube has some good vids of each one.

[97-ranger]

so what stage 3 clutch are there? i tryed looking and nothing really came up.if you guys want more hp why dont you buy esslinger parts?i know its expensive but its worth it. my uncle races stock car pro-4 and they run these 2.3 and 2.5 engines no turbo and they even have lots of restrictions on the motor due to the race class but my uncle just dynoed his car at 240rwhp and it carb.now for my dezert truck iam putting one of his race engines in it.but to top it off we are going to turbocharge it.we are expecting a good 500-600hp:) oh and they use stock cranks i believe n his class but the big part of there horse power gain is there cams and heads.the heads costs 6g. and all the cams for these engine were developed years ago old technology.so they have tryed bjust about every cam out there for this engine but all find out exactly what cam they use now.

[speedaddict]

Why not just spend half of that 6g's and make more power per dollar? Seems kinda odd to want to go out and spend that much when there are alot more simplier options??? Im pretty over half of us here use stock cranks as well.

As far as running a 600hp desert racer, Thats turbo'd. I'd prolly invest in a really good filter LOL

[97-ranger]

lol i know i dont recommend doing it i would rather spend that 6 gs on something else but i was just saying on how much hp that 2.3 can make w/o a turbo. its amazing

[nagelandy55]

You throw money at anything it'll make hp. I don't know of anyone on this site that has anything other than a stock crank. The bottom ends in these motors are SOLID.

[speedaddict]

Racer walsh has billit cranks for the 2.3/2.5, priced pretty good too

[96lowslow]

I think our stock cranks on the t/c engines are forged. Joe Morgan has a stock crank in his pinto 2.3 turbo and its been in the 10's for years. he was even in hotrod magazine. the bottom ends are solid in these motors, i think an aluminum head from esslinger is a great investment in power and reliabilty! the stock iron head cracks frequently, this is the only engine i can think of that has an iron head and a turbo! usually manufactures go with an aluminum head for to dissipate heat better than iron on turbo applications

[jeeping99tj]

Wondering what my hp would be around to wheels. I have a t3 .60/.63 turbo, large fmic, large vam, a237 cam, roller rockers, 120degree gutted upper, knifed edge and ported lower, gasket match ported head, ported E6, full 3" exhaust no cat with magna flow, afpr, brown tops( for now) felpro 1035, chipped la2. I think that's all. Any thing I'm missing that would help let me know. I am going to upgrade fuel soon. Like a walbro and some bigger injectors.

[AJ_Fritz]

310 to the crank is the max you can hit with stock injectors at stock fuel pressure. ask me how i know lol

[jeeping99tj]

Let me guess u fried a piston? When I got my motor it had the #2 piston missing the top ring and it ripped out of the too of piston. And the rest have dents and pitted real bad. I think it was running hot lol

[speedaddict]

I think it was running lean...

[jeeping99tj]

Ya. I only ran 18psi and it would fall on its ass at around 4k rpm. I only ran it a couple blocks before I tore into block. Time for injectors and a pump

[speedaddict]

and new pistons/rings?

[jeeping99tj]

Yaa lol waiting on a guy on here to send me some pics of some pistons. I jus honed block and there are a couple very small lines I noticed. Will this be a problem? There very small. Barely can get finger nail in it.

[speedaddict]

Shouldn't be. Hows the hone on the block look?

Also what about the ridge?

[jeeping99tj]

The hone is done. In #2 I still have a few lines but very small. The ridge is flush with the rest of wall. Is that good. This is the first motor I have rebuilt.

[speedaddict]

Sounds good to me. Depending on how deep the lines are you should be good to go

[jfive]

does that mean no ridge. You use a ridge reamer first if there is a ridge and then hone it. When you change out parts you need to do this. The top ring could hit it and break ****. Thats the way I learned it at least. From what I understand there is hardly any ridge on these though. On my chevy the guy bored it .030 and there was still ridge in the front two cylinders, so he did .060

[jeeping99tj]

I don't notice much of a ridge. Its colored a lil darker but don't feel it. The lines aren't deep.

[speedaddict]

you should be fine then. :thumbsup:

[jeeping99tj]

this is a pic of worst of the 4 walls. Look ok? ANd wondering if i should switch out my .48 for a .63. i have one sitting on my shelf?

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp141/boostedranger/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG00194-20100110-1337.jpg
after hone
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp141/boostedranger/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG00196-20100110-1816.jpg

[95'XLT2.3Ranger]

Hey guys I'm new to the forum, picked up a 95 XLT 2.3L last year for 500 bucks (120,000 miles) as a first truck. Has a bit of body damage, nothing that can't be fixed later. Just turned 19 not long ago so I'm starting to getting into full rebuilds for fun, did a few in school but that's about it. Is it more worth while to buy a Turbo block, Pistons, Rods, Crank and what not separate put it together, (Or does anyone know of anyone who would sell and ship a built motor ready to run (turn key), just drop it in and swap it on a long weekend. Or would it take longer than a weekend to pull the motor and transmission. Rebuild it replace the clutch (heard the stock ceramic wont hold much over 250HP) and Drop it back in? I do drive this work back and forth to work so it can't be down very long. Looking to smoke some GT Mustangs after the project is over.

[jfive]

I would try and find another 2.3 from a 95 ranger that needs rebuilt and build it so that it pretty much drop in ready, and then have everything that you have done to it sent to jess, and have him give you a tune, and you should be able to do it in a weekend, if you know someone that can do your exhaust. I think thats the only thing that you would want to do yourself. Maybe make an appointment to a shop and drop it off on the weekend and have a down pipe made and run it to the muffler shop open exhaust. You could mount the intercooler before pulling the old motor, so thats all ready.

[95'XLT2.3Ranger]

Alright, thanks jfive. Anyone hear how hard it is to find and mount a B234 16V Volvo head? Saw some very impressive flow chart numbers. Looks like it could be more hassle than what it's worth or would you just need a longer timing belt (forgot to add the 16V Pistons with the valve clearance cuts)? Anyone in here running a setup like this? These are the flow chart numbers i found (Stock Head/No Porting) Even found with stage 3 porting it outperforms the ARCA Head, but i dont want to get into using this head have it ported, to find out there aren't any aftermarket cams for it, think i saw the stock lift on it somewhere was in the 400-450 range.

-Lift" Volvo16v
.050" 42.3
.100" 85.1
.150" 123.9
.200" 164.1
.250" 198.5
.300" 219.2
.350" 226.4
.400" 229.6
.450" 231.6
.500" 234.1
.550" 235.4
.600" 235.4

[94 lngbd]

whats the difference between the pre 95 head & post 95 head? Will a stock 94 2.3 engine hold up to being turboed?

[BogusSVO]

I want to say 95 is the year that the valve stem changed in the heads , from .343 stem dia with "big " springs to the 7mm with "small" springs

None of the NA engines tend to live long with cast pistons, and a turbo

[speedaddict]

Nope. usually a stock motor with more than 8psi tends to end in catastrophic failure.

Its been said many times on here, you could have a perfect tune with absolutley no detonation, but if it happens just once, its all over but the crying

[AJ_Fritz]

someone make the crying stop! please, i cant take it any more.

the earlier (94-) have a larger swirl at the valve pocket in the intake runner. they wonk flow that great unless filled.

[jfive]

We will see about this. I am using the 94- head and I am gonna do a rwhp dyno after wards. I will not be able to tell you if one head is better than another, but I will be able to post numbers of what it has in the end. I talked to a guy that said my head is a great head to build. Not aware of this swirl in the port you speak of, but don't make me cry, since I allready bought valves and started porting and polishing.

[mopman93]

if you;re porting the head then it wont matter becasue you'll grind away the swirl

[speedaddict]

Duh.


:hehe:


Just messin with ya.

[beluga420]

hey guys i'm new to this site and got a shitty 2.3 liter that REALY needs a boost as you know, and really looking forward getting it over 300 rwhp where did you get your 60 lb injectors can't find some at reasonable price :(

[fordnut71]

they are stock on the ford lighting trucks. so ebay an craigslist, the normal places to find used parts.

[nagelandy55]

Umm i don't think 60lb injectors are stock on Lightnings. I believe they have 39lb or 42lb injectors.
This is where i got mine
http://www.advancedfuelinjection.net/Dodge_Ford_GM-630cc_Seimens_Fuel_Injector_High_Impedence.html

[speedaddict]

Ebay has a bunch, i went with seimens delka. So far they work Great!

[speedaddict]

Btw, you need to know if you want high or low impendance

[pndwind]

If you have a 2.5L you can put a 2.3L crank in it with 2.3L rods and pistons.
2.3L Rods & pistons= 50$
crank for your block=50$
rings = 50$


So if your already running a 2.3L you can use stock rods and pistons?

[jfive]

Yes and no. Stock forged turbo pistons and rods yes. Stock ranger rods and pistons are only good for maybe 170 rwhp. So you can use turbo rods and and some form of forged piston,and get to 300rwhp.

[freelife04239]

I was told stock rods are fine on the 2.3l just the pistons need to be changed, but Im new here so I could be very wrong.

[Jesshwarren]

I was told stock rods are fine on the 2.3l just the pistons need to be changed, but Im new here so I could be very wrong.

Depends on the year. Up to 94 I think the rods where 5.2" so you would be ok with those.

[socal94ranger]

Hey guys I'm new to the site as well as being new to Rangers and Turbo systems in whole I have owned a few turbo cars but They were all stock as far as performance wise. I just bought a 1994 2.3l 5 speed ranger extra cab with 150,xxx miles on it. it is completely stock. I am trying to build a quick street truck to compete with my friends that have s10's (some turbo, some supercharged some n/a built motors.) I want to build a strong reliable truck that can play with them maybe even beat them or atleast give them a run for their money lol. I could really use some guidance from you guys. Jess your list is very helpful to me as far as parts go but my first question is how hard is it to install all these parts by myself (maybe a couple friends) in my garage? Thanks in advance for all the info. This forum rocks you guys do a great job and are very helpful. :rockwoot: :thanks:

[TurboRay]

.........THE FOUR "MORE'S".........

■ MORE AIR IN:
1. Increase boost
2. Porting (head and intake)
3. Bigger valves
4. Better/bigger cam
5. Large VAM (or VAM removal, using MAF or SD)
6. Efficient IC, BIGGER IC &/or water/alky injection (cooler air charge = MORE air)
7. CAI in fenderwell or in front of core support (cooler air charge = MORE air)

■ MORE EXHAUST OUT (reduced back-pressure):
1. Header or ported E6
2. Sufficiently-large turbine housing for desired power level
3. Ported integral WG opening or remote WG
4. 3"+ DP & undercar piping
5. 3"+ Muffler/catalytic converter

■ MORE available FUEL:
1. More fuel pressure &/or bigger injectors
2. Better/greater fuel-delivery (pump, rail, lines, pickup location)

■ MORE-EFFICIENT COMBUSTION (@ all boost levels/throttle openings):
1. Maximum compression for boost and fuel used
2. Tight/maximum quench (.032-ish PTH clearance for steel rods and "mirror-image" piston dish)
3. Proper ignition & fuel curve w/stock or reprogrammed ECU, OR well-programmed standalone.
4. Plenty of spark energy (CD ign box, COP, hi-energy coil, etc.)
5. Fresh/correct plugs
6. Good (non-"leaking") plug wires

These are most of the basics for improved/max power production in ALL internal combustion engines. There are LOTS of options out there to achieve/improve the parameters in this list. You can use savvy/common sense, OR look at what others have used/done on the "Top TC" list here on NATO or the proven combos over at TurboFord.

C'ya - RAY

[AJ_Fritz]

there is one thing you want less of...

less oil. you need to control the oil in the cylinders. good rings, file fit, stainless top rings for anything over 25 psi on a stout engine. pre-ignition kills, if your going to crank it up then talk with a good engine builder, machine shop about fresh bores and new pistons.

[speedaddict]

This is really gonna confuse the new guys....

[socal94ranger]

Well it is slightly confusing however i do understand a bit of what was just posted lol. its pretty simple but my question from my previous post is still unanswered lol. Thanks again guys for all the info.

[speedaddict]

yeah it all can be done at home in a small shop. Unless the block needs to be bored or what not.

And maybe exhaust if you ain't got a welder. Other than that yeah, go for it.

[lifted2wdranger]

does this say what i need for the 2.3 lima engines?

[BogusSVO]

Lift yes look at page 1 post 1 then find 2.3

but it can vary depending on what year ranger you use and what parts you have/need/want

[lifted2wdranger]

i have a 94 with the 2.3 with 31's and i want more horse's than a mustang 5.0l

[jfive]

what year mustang 5.0? I mean the new one has 411 hp. gt 1st gen efi is 225 i believe. there are other lower and higher. This should be pretty easy with some 42lb injectors and pistons, rods, a bit of porting, intercooler, E6 or E3 or stock location header, 2.5 or 3 exhaust, sct, T3 turbo, fuel pump, ect, ect.

[lifted2wdranger]

if I could make 250+ hp I would be pretty satisfied if I could make more than 300 hp it would be awesome

[muddpawz]

Didn't know SCT could be used on OBDI? What'd I miss!!???

[BogusSVO]

mudd. as far as I know the SCT is OBDII only....

[jfive]

SCT makes a 4 bank chip that is for obd I and II.

[77pumpkin]

i know most people dont usually ask for "less" horsepower .. but im not looking to get 300whp+ out of my truck. i just want a good fun turbo truck. was curious to know how much of the 300whp+ list can be toned down to cut cost and eliminate un-needed parts ... i.e. big turbo, etc.

i basically would like an upgraded version of the turbocoupe/merkur 2.3T.

however the list on page 1 is very informational, i just want to know what i can do to tone it down a little bit due to me not wanting/needing 300whp

[BogusSVO]

77pumpkin.. it would be helpfull to know what year ranger and what parts you have.

[77pumpkin]

77pumpkin.. it would be helpfull to know what year ranger and what parts you have.

sorry, good point.

its a 1996 2.3 5 speed. i have no parts other than the stock engine in the truck. it needs some work and im highly considering a very modest turbo build apposed to replacing/repairing whats broken on the truck now. gaskets, seals, timing belt, etc etc. 214,xxx miles

[BogusSVO]

pumpkin.... that makes you a OBDII set up if I am correct...being that your a 96 that would be first year..

so for a min you can trim this list....

2.3L Rods & pistons= 50$<<<<<<<<< Deff need
crank for your block=50$ << no need, you have it
rings = 50$ <<<< need these
____________________
60lb injectors = 250$<<<<<<<< Need
90mm MAF meter = 80$ <<<<< IDK someone else can awnser this
255LPH FP = 70$<<<< you should get this for over 15 psi
Xcal-2 = 300$<<<<<<<< Need
Turbo = 300$<<<<<<<< Need
Header = 200$<<<<<<<< Need. turbo and header can be replaced with a E6 Mani and T3 or IHI from a TC/ Xr4Ti, if you go E6/stock location, good chance you will lose your AC
38MM WG = 80$<<<< if you get an internal WG turbo no need
Intercooler& pipe= 180$<<< you can JY fab something up
head studs = 100$<<<<<<<< should get or replace your TTY bolts with the old 12pt
1035 head gasket = 54$<<<< if you go over 20, under get the stock one
stge 3 clutch = 300$

[nova+rangerracer]

What kind of turbo would be best for 15ish psi spooling at around 2500rpm?

[jfive]

A rotomaster like the one I have would be a good one. Its a 60ar cold 40ar hot. It should boost early and was setup on a 4cyl luv at 15psi. I think the ebay turbo may be a good one. At 150.00 it should be a cheap way to go too.

[BogusSVO]

a stock IHI or even a T3 would do that for you.. the ebay special will do 20-22 nicley!

[nova+rangerracer]

Thank you guys. Im new to the turbo ranger scene, though I have built turbo vehicles in the past and am currently building the only rear mount turbo hyundia tiburon ever built. I was thinking about doing a rear mount on the ranger, just for the fact that I have never heard of it being done before

[wahvtec]

so im considering this for my 1999 2.5 and plan on hitting up the junkyard for a 2.3l from a similar ranger to start. Then i want to order rods pistons etc, but im having trouble finding the stock 2.3 turbo internals. Crank pistons etc for the prices yall have listed. Racerwalsh seems to be performance upgrades as well as summit and i didnt see them on ebay or just dont know what to search. Thanks in advance for any help

[jfive]

raceeng.com, esselinger, diamond pistons, summit, racerwalsh, here, junkyard, and craigslist, and ebay.

[cboutilier]

So the holset hx35 is stock on the Cummins? If so, my buddy has a spare for sale that he had for his h22 swap civic turbo. With the hx35 work with the merkur 2.3t manifold?

[1450mazda]

I have a 96 b2300 I've been going back and forth on building with a turbo. What I want to do is more like road racing type stuff. I've been curious if you could put a 2.5 crank in to make more power. Also I did read all this thread and am kinda confused on what parts I can use in my engine. So I can use my block and head but would need to find either older turbo internals or new forged parts? Also I want to have an engine that will rev fast. I've never driven a turbo so I dont know the real differences but I know my truck does not rev fast. What would be a size turbo for fast revs and power all the way through the range?

[jfive]

you could use forged pistons from a older turbo motor, and forget about the 2.5. an engine revs faster by having more power, so you need more power. I would say if you want it to start in the lower rpms, you want a smaller turbo, that will top out at 6000rpms. An IHI or T3 stock 2.3 turbo might be just what you need. Not sure what other cars came stock with T3 imprint turbos, but Pretty much any engine with a 2.0 up to 2.5 should work. With the boost coming on early, and not building the engine to operate at too high of rpm, you should be able to have a faster reving street demon. I would say if you have the money, look into a ball bearing turbo. That would be the best choice if you can afford it. They rev the fastest and have more potential than a non ball bearing turbo that spools at the same rpm. I would say a ported head and stock ranger cam 2.3 would be a good start.

[1450mazda]

So I dont want to rev more than 6k in a road race type engine? Kinda new to it so not too sure. Would an aftermarket cam like the esslinger one be better than the stock for what I'm looking for? For what its worth I am looking to get about 300 hp. Hope I'm not asking for too much out of my engine. Fast revving and a good amount of hp.

[rangersplash2.3]

i guess ill bite. im sure ill be around 300 with my setup once i get the parts together. my buddys got a 87 merk motor all stock with no turbo on it for me. im going to run that motor. parts ive got now is a GN turbo, 93 super coupe FMIC, 88 TC knife lower, gutted and porter upper (rotated soon), got a turbo head i will port myself, going to get a racerwalsh cam and prolly bigger valves with hardened seat, LA3 ECU, 70mm or 75mm MAF or a large vam, 42lbs injectors, 3 inch exhaust, center mount header. just going for 15-18 pounds for a DD.

[dangeranger]

alright. so i just picked up a set of 88 t/c engines. both auto and manual ecu and wiring harness. I'm running a 91 ranger 2.3 with the 8 plugs 5 Sp.... exc. i'm looking to do a pretty good amount of work to it but not sure where to start. i know i'm gonna start with the fuel system. but am stuck on some better rods and pistons. changing turbo's, cams. just wanted some expert advice on steps to take. seeing as i am stripping to bare block and starting fresh. and money isn't really a problem (not a weekend rebuild) what are the best of parts to use for reliability and power... i've read the forum and have some idea's but nothing really about the t/c engines. i guess more of anything i need a complete parts list of every nut and bolt i'm gonna need.
also i found stinger-performance.com wanted to get a second opinion.

so far... cummins turbo, injecters, fuel pump, aluminum head. on my parts list

[dangeranger93]

whats your hp goal and budget? are you going to use the 88 tc block or the ranger one?

[dangeranger]

whats your hp goal and budget? are you going to use the 88 tc block or the ranger one?

whichever is better. i was just gonna use the 88 t/c but if ranger one is better i'll use it. and no budget it's a project for me and my dad so i'm gonna do it up right.. but keep in mind it's still gotta be street-able. it's my daily. also gonna try finding a ford 9 in. but not sure where to start looking

[dangeranger93]

well im no expert in the aftermarket parts world but if no budget i would go ahead and use all the new parts you can.
you should start your own thread asking your own specific questions instead of using this thread. everyone here is a huge help and you will get the answers you need

[sas 1997 ford ranger]

ok so so what year of rangers can you use the 2.5l engine to build and turbo? i see a few people useing either a 98 or 99 but never newer.

[dangeranger93]

well the 2.5 was an obd2 motor so id say any obd2 truck 95-01 or whatever year was the last year before the duratech

[jfive]

you could turbo any of them if you want. from 84 to present. there are people turboing all the differant veriations too, including the newer duratec rangers. The question is, what year ranger do you want to turbo?

[sas 1997 ford ranger]

well i just picked up a 1999 ranger with the 2.5l and a 5 speed for 500 off my buddy cause it has a blown head gasket. ive already started ordering parts but where to you get the aftermarket intake manifold like what jess has on his ranger? did he make it himself?

[Agent Ezzard]

Jess had a shop make it for him. A few people like riddlerob also has a custom upper intake manifold.

[sas 1997 ford ranger]

oh alright

[joe6]

So the holset hx35 is stock on the Cummins? If so, my buddy has a spare for sale that he had for his h22 swap civic turbo. With the hx35 work with the merkur 2.3t manifold?

The hx 35 was on 94-00 cummins... in 01 and 02 automatics they ran a hy35 (smaller not so good turbo) in 01 and 02 standard trans cummins they ran the hx35. Then in 03 they switched to a he351 turbo which is a little bigger than an hx35 but has a small exhaust housing on it(9cm). Now there using a he351vgt turbo which is a variable geometry turbo...(the exhaust housing is electronically controlled and changes sizes from 9cm-23cm via vanes) but the wheels are still the same size as the regular he351 (60mm/60mm). Also try emusa hx35/40 hybrid turbos (60/64/14). There $330 off ebay and work great. I have one on my cummins and it sees 31#'s of boost on a regular basis!! I know others running over 40# of boost. One of my friends use 2 of them and an S475 in a set of tripple turbos for his truck. They work good:rockwoot:

[BigRed10287]

Ok so I already know that this is a rather small HP goal compared to the rest of you guys, but my goal is 225hp-250hp. Would I be able to use the stock crank in my 2.5L and just use forged rods and pistons with a mild cam and hx35 turbo, or am I overestimating the strength of the crank. And if all's good, what would I have to do hose and wire wise to get this setup to work in my 2001 2.5L 5 speed aside from the oil line to the block? I have fair experience with most small block chevy's and ford's, but the lima 2.5L is something I have NO experience with other than just maintenance. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[fordnut71]

you have to change the crank too

[BigRed10287]

Ok. So what is about the hp limit for the 2.5L crank. I do plan on doing some minor upgrades to hold me over until the turbo, so know now can prevent problems in the future.

[fordnut71]

i think its been tested to about 450 an held up fine.

[BigRed10287]

If it'll hold up to 450hp then why would I need a new crank for a 225hp-250hp build?

[jfive]

The cheap way of making a good bottom end is using a 2.3 crank, 89 up, and factory cast rods, and forged pistons. You should be able to have this for around 300.00 including bearings and rings. 2.5 rods are probubly fine for that amount of power, and you just need a set of pistons rings, and bearings. I think weisco has the cheapest pistons for a 2.5 that are forged. You could go either way, personally I would try to get some .020 pistons and build the 2.5 and do a small amount of boost to get to your goal. Like 10psi.

[BigRed10287]

The cheap way of making a good bottom end is using a 2.3 crank, 89 up, and factory cast rods, and forged pistons. You should be able to have this for around 300.00 including bearings and rings. 2.5 rods are probubly fine for that amount of power, and you just need a set of pistons rings, and bearings. I think weisco has the cheapest pistons for a 2.5 that are forged. You could go either way, personally I would try to get some .020 pistons and build the 2.5 and do a small amount of boost to get to your goal. Like 10psi.

That sounds like a pretty good plan. I don't want to overbuild this motor if I don't have to since it's my daily driver and I use it to haul parts and work with. I'm just sick of being passed by everything in sight and having to downshift + floor it to make it up the hills around here. I've been told by everyone under the sun to do the v8 swap, but I need the gas mileage plus I have to do things differently

[fordnut71]

change out your rear gear set for a 373 or 410 set if you want to stay in na for a while. it will stop the consent downshifting on 1*grades.
the difference between the 2 is 200 rpm.
i put a 410 set in mine an got better mileage cause the motor was at the bottom of the power band an able to power threw. i do 2800rpm at 110km about 65mph

[AJ_Fritz]

there are hills in texas?! looked pretty flat the time or 2 i been thew there lol.

[jfive]

Its kinda like you guys thinking you have mountains. Some peoples mountains are other peoples hills, and some peoples hills, are speed bumps. :)

[K G]

Befor I put the turbo in my Ranger I hated the hills too. My home elevation is 3990 and work was 3330. Passing a farm truck was not much fun on the way home. Now I just fly by going up the hills. Still get over 20ish mph with my lead foot. I made a super duty work hard to get pass me a few days ago, I let up when I saw that all 3 numbers on the speedo was the same.
K G

[jfive]

I don't have any hills on my drive to work, but as KG knows, if I go 200 miles in any directions, I have a pass I need to go over, with maybe 3000ft of elevation change. I sure would like to stay out of third on some.

[BigRed10287]

there are hills in texas?! looked pretty flat the time or 2 i been thew there lol.
There are plains areas, hill areas, and mountain areas in Texas, and most people passing through texas only drive through the plains. It's a pretty big state, and I live in the mid texas hills.

[BigRed10287]

change out your rear gear set for a 373 or 410 set if you want to stay in na for a while. it will stop the consent downshifting on 1*grades.
the difference between the 2 is 200 rpm.
i put a 410 set in mine an got better mileage cause the motor was at the bottom of the power band an able to power threw. i do 2800rpm at 110km about 65mph
I already have the 3.73 rearend gears from the factory. If anything I would like taller gears since the speed limit around here is 70mph sometimes 75mph! :peelout:

I already have an adapter plate to mount a T56 behind my 2.5, just need to order the custom flywheel, clutch, have the crank machined to fit the pilot bearing for the T56 to finish the swap. In the mean time I have a set of Bosch type III 19lb injectors waiting to be installed, have a cherrybomb turbo muffler on it's way, and currently saving for a hurst shifter and a K&N CAI that I plan to make a fully sealed cold air box for. Will definitely get a tune after everything is installed.

That stuff is only just to hold me over till I build the turbo motor. That will be built on the side in my free time.

[jfive]

where do you get a T56 for a small block ford. They have to be one of the best transmissions out there period. If i was gonna do a manual tranny for something, it would be this one.

[BigRed10287]

where do you get a T56 for a small block ford. They have to be one of the best transmissions out there period. If i was gonna do a manual tranny for something, it would be this one.
I'm using the T56 from a cobra, the flywheel and getting the crank machined to fit the T56 pilot bearing is the key to getting it to fit the any engine.

[rangersplash2.3]

SCT makes a 4 bank chip that is for obd I and II.

has anyone confirmed this? would make it easier to tune an OBD1.

[jfive]

Its been confirmed, but there is a few other options too. The 4 bank SCT chip is best if you can get it dyno tuned by someone that does SCT's. Jess said he could do them, but he would need the truck. I have found that SCT is the most common tuner out there for most tuners, so finding someone might not be too bad.

[BigRed10287]

I hope they're common around Fort worth or Dallas Texas, because That's about the only two cities I live close enough to go to dyno tune my truck, and that's still a good drive in and of itself.

[jfive]

http://www.simplequickracing.com/SERVICES.htm Never know. http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?ID=5448 and if all else fails. http://www.hppmotorsports.com/

[BigRed10287]

http://www.simplequickracing.com/SERVICES.htm Never know. http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?ID=5448 and if all else fails. http://www.hppmotorsports.com/ Thanks! I'll be dyno tuning my truck long before I turbo my truck because I do plan on doing a N/A build and swap in my T56 (with factory compression) first so this helps a LOT!

[EllsD9]

hey guys im brand new to the turbo form and i have some questions, hopefully u guys`can help me out , ok so i have a 95 ranger with the 2.3,5 speed im goin to be picking up a 2.3t out of a merker its been sitting in this kids garage for a wile wats the best reliable way to get it up and running good and also get close to 400 rwhp, and do u think my tranny will hold up? if not wat should i do for a 5 speed tranny ?. i know youve guys have probly answered this question a million times but if you could give me the best possiable list of wat id need to make that reliable power , and the best turbo that makes the most power thats also the loudest / best sounding, that would be awsome. also do they make that rattlesnake sounding blowoff valves for these motors ? if so where can i get one? thank you so much guys for your time

[Lowranger96]

You should read the first page of this thread....

What's your budget?

Bov's are universal

[tcranger]

more like all the pages in this thread:D

[speedaddict]

This is one of the longest threads on trf, i'd hate to read thru this thread. :welcome:

[Lowranger96]

19 pages is short! lol if you are looking for good info on needed parts why wouldn't you wanna read it all!

heck, ive read it and i dont even have a 4 cyl lol, but i know what u need to turbo them now!

[EllsD9]

yea it is quite a bit to read lol well i was going to do the swap and build it as i go so i really dont have a budget just looking for the most reliable hp for my buck you no wat im saying ?

[Skyy_4life]

yea it is quite a bit to read lol well i was going to do the swap and build it as i go so i really dont have a budget just looking for the most reliable hp for my buck you no wat im saying ?

well, your gonna have to re-pin your harness for that engine, or just build your own would be better, remove the rods and pistons from that engine and put them into yours, buy huge injectors, huge maf, huge fuel pump, huge turbo, huge intercooler, and TUNE AWAY! lol.

BTW: the "Rattlesnake sound" is compressor surge, simply dont put a blow off valve into the piping system, and that will happen lol

[EllsD9]

hy35 or hx35 turbo? or is there different one thats better?

[jfive]

Depends on the power goals. Hy spools quicker but it limited to less power. Not really an issue for most builds though. Like the truck. Looks sharp.

[EllsD9]

lookin to get as close to 400 rwhp as possible while being reliable and minimal turbo lag, and thanks man appreciate it

[Skyy_4life]

lookin to get as close to 400 rwhp as possible while being reliable and minimal turbo lag, and thanks man appreciate it

i dont see any problem with an hy35 doing that, but i do tell you, its gonna be alot more than just the turbo, a good flowing head and a good tune, maybe even look into bigger cam, bigger valves. 400hp takes some work.

[EllsD9]

yea i plan on picking up a motor out of a merkur in a couple weeks and do the swap and run it stock for awhile and build it as a go im gettin the motor for 200 bucks i just need to pick up a stock turbo for now so i can run that motor i just dont no wat upgrade i dhould do first , and if my stock tranny will hold up

[imaprobowler]

Befor I put the turbo in my Ranger I hated the hills too. My home elevation is 3990 and work was 3330. Passing a farm truck was not much fun on the way home. Now I just fly by going up the hills. Still get over 20ish mph with my lead foot. I made a super duty work hard to get pass me a few days ago, I let up when I saw that all 3 numbers on the speedo was the same.
K G

pullin 110 + good man.:D ha. Nobody thinks on the East Coast there's many hills but there's enough to get on my nerves I can tell you that much. I been reading through I see alot of people shooting for 300+rwhp and I was wondering what a guy needs to run a little less then that. I wanted to run a lower PSI considering cost is a little more of a factor in this build up. But to avoid pointless posts of people asking me what year and engine it's a 2.5l 5 speed outta my 99 ranger XLT. wanna know what has to be done to handle the turbo and then what and where I know to have a successful build in it's entirety:ford:. parts to handle the turbo and the turbo itself, kinda need a parts list. Thanks to all and I know you guys say it alot, but i'm just another newb running na and frying my mind away when I pull up a hill and gotta downshift! :banghead: Thanks :rockwoot::driving:

[tcranger]

run the stock 2.3 turbo motor turn up the boost a little and put some work into the head, exhast and intake manifold and you be close to 230-240 at the wheels. put a fmic in and it helps a great deal too. thats with stock turbo injectors and computer.

[imaprobowler]

And that would mean replacing internals? I kind of wanted to work with my current engine to save me the headache of an engine swap. but I guess if it costs more i'd do a switch... and thatwould be with stock internals stock injectors and stock computer?? where i get the engine outta what? ha thanks

[Lowranger96]

stock injectors and stock computer isn't going to handle a turbo unless it's the stock computer and injectors out of the original turbo car

[imaprobowler]

okay yeah that's what i thought i read that incorrectly. In your opinion, is it easier to run my currect 2.5 out of my 99 or maybe just a couple light mods and leave her be as my daily driver, and then go for another ranger maybe or early 90's with the 2.3 and go big, kinda like a drag/track truck that i can make into a monster?

[Lowranger96]

is it easier? idk seems like the same work either way.. what would i do? i'd build a motor to go in your DD and turbo that

[jfive]

Build a 2.5 doner motor, or a 2.3 from 95 to 97. Injectors from a factory turbo 2.3 are usless for ya, unless you want to wire in resistors, or a honda resistor box. Look for high ohm injectors, not low ohm. 30lbs and up should be good to look for what you want to make. I'd say up to 42s, or maybe even 60. Doing a cam and mild port work on a factory 2.5 head should help you get to your goal with out having to turn up the boost. You might need a fuel pump, might not.

[imaprobowler]

Wiring honda anything or resistors sounds like a pain in the a$$ haha. I'll go for the high ohm 42lb injectors which i believe are in ford lightnings if I remember correctly. By 2.5 doner you mean the one i got now or find another? and idk about a new motor, I always say, buying a new car is buying someone elses headache.

[rangersplash2.3]

2.5 is basically the same as the 2.3, blocks are no different.

[imaprobowler]

well besides the number what is the literal difference between these engines

[AirBender]

the rods are powder forged in the 2.5 and are not recommended for boost... they will frag... hence the reason most build a 2.3 turbo motor... stock turbo rods are forged from the factory...

[imaprobowler]

ah I see. Makes alot of sense. Why pay for a headache right? well i'm going to probably lower my truck before I started ripping into an engine. either wayI still want to do both. do the engine mounts line p for a 2.5 and a 2.3?

[rangersplash2.3]

yeah its the same block. the 2.5 is a stroked 2.3.

[imaprobowler]

alright well i'll probably run this motor and then snag a 2.3 and start putting it together. Then just sway when it comes time to change. My goal is to run like 13-15PSI on a future engine. and the 2.3's are easier to work with so I will just have to go for it. Where can I get the 2.3 and what years/models should I be looking for

[muddpawz]

Still asking the forum to do your research for you?!!! Wow. Every question you've asked has been or could be answered.......if you take some time and READ the pages in the forum.

[RacinGas]

Still asking the forum to do your research for you?!!! Wow. Every question you've asked has been or could be answered.......if you take some time and READ the pages in the forum.

It's ok I was the same way when I first joined but I think I settled down a little and started to read an absorb everything on here, It's like my "2.3L Boosting Bible" lol. Try to look for a 95-97' (Last of the OBDII 2.3L's) jfive mentioned that on the other thread. Best thing to do is to start one thread and stick to posting your questions on it instead of posting all over, we can't follow your questions everywhere lol. So once you get the 2.3L tear it down and catalog everything, you can re-use the crank, but you'll need to look for any stock boosted 2.3L such as the turbo coupe and SVO to steal the rods and pistons from or buy new forged ones. You'll also need a turbo manifold (E6, Center-mount, log etc). Bigger EV1 injectors, A T3 turbo such as an IHI, T60, HX/HY35. SCT Tuner and Software. Wastegate depending on the turbo. Blow-off valve. Intercooler intake piping. 90mm MAF and I'm probably missing alot of stuff but thats the major parts I can come up with off the top of my head. just use your search at the top of the page and you'll be able to find post that contain the keywords you use to search with.

[imaprobowler]

Still asking the forum to do your research for you?!!! Wow. Every question you've asked has been or could be answered.......if you take some time and READ the pages in the forum.

wow dude just a little rude? I do read alot and ask what i miss. I am keeping extensive notes in a word document to keep track of things, like a notebook just easier. i'm sorry it's so degrading to you and has such a heavy impact on you, but there's not much I can do about it. And thank you RacinGas for that info. We all start that way i suppose. I read alot of it I just don't get it all. Nobody is perfect

[RacinGas]

No one means any ill-impact against any of the members here from what I've found being a junior member myself. It is just a bit "repetitive" trying to re-explain everything over for every new member. As I tore further into the search option and old threads I found myself answering all of my old questions. Just make a thread and stick too it, If I don't know an answer and no-one has posted I'll research it myself and hopefully be able to give you an answer or a ball-park of where to look. I don't mind helping out and researching material, because I too am in the middle of a tear down, rebuild and engine swap.

[imaprobowler]

No one means any ill-impact against any of the members here from what I've found being a junior member myself. It is just a bit "repetitive" trying to re-explain everything over for every new member. As I tore further into the search option and old threads I found myself answering all of my old questions. Just make a thread and stick too it, If I don't know an answer and no-one has posted I'll research it myself and hopefully be able to give you an answer or a ball-park of where to look. I don't mind helping out and researching material, because I too am in the middle of a tear down, rebuild and engine swap.

Sounds good and thanks RacinGas I appreciate it. And good luck with your swap, i'll be doing one of my own eventually. Just need to get home and get some steady income going for me again. I am away at school but once i'm home for the summer it'll be time to get down and dirty. :)

[muddpawz]

No one means any ill-impact against any of the members here from what I've found being a junior member myself. It is just a bit "repetitive" trying to re-explain everything over for every new member. As I tore further into the search option and old threads I found myself answering all of my old questions. Just make a thread and stick too it, If I don't know an answer and no-one has posted I'll research it myself and hopefully be able to give you an answer or a ball-park of where to look. I don't mind helping out .

Thank you. All I am saying is this is your project, live it, learn it, look it up. Hell I still ask many questions, but after I look them up, (here, Google, trs, TF, Merkur forums....tons of turbo mustang sites, even some tuner sites) first. We all try to help out each other learn from what we have done, heard, found, etc. Not kickin your sac but his above statement stands very true. So best of luck on your build and again welcome!

[lifted2wdranger]

hey guys at my local junk yard theres a merkur x4rti sitting there with out the headers and turbo, what would you guys suggest i take off this engine to put into mine to make 225 + hp, thanks guys

[jfive]

I'd take the whole engine depending on what year you got. Give us a little background on what ya got to work with.

[lifted2wdranger]

i have a 1994 ranger, 2.3 with 244,000 kms, i want to convert to 4x4 with FW dana 44's but im not sure if the 2.3 will take it. im not exactly sure what year the merk is. what i should be asking is would the 2.3t be right for dana 44 with 35" tires? how much torque does the 2.3t put out with like 250-300 hp? thanks guys

[jfive]

If you had 250hp it would probubly be something like 280 tq. So I would say it will turn 35s just fine, but you would want to go with gears like 3.73 or 4.10s One thing you might want to think about is getting a more powerful steering box too, as big tires can be hard on them. So I would look at taking the whole motor since your obd I allready. See if it has the computer too. I'd repin your harness and use the computer and whole engine, and try to do a maf conversion. Get a few upgrades on the motor, like some dsm injectors and you should be able to get there pretty easy. I would look at getting your transmission, and running gear from a jeep, as they have a transmission convertor for a 2.3 ford to a jeep. Then you should be able to find a tranny and transcase, and your dana 44 pretty easy.

[lifted2wdranger]

for the 4x4 thing i can just take the tail shaft and housing of mine and put on a 4x4 tail shaft and housing and run a manual t case from an explorer or ranger. and for the engine part, you would use the merk engine with upgrades? thanks jfive

[jfive]

yeah. I would use the merc engine, and do a few upgrades. Read about the bolt on build on stingers website. Its pretty amazing what you can get out of a used motor with just a few bolt ons. I didn't mention ranger and explorer stuff, cause it hasn't been done that I know of, and thought it was still up in the air to weather it works or not. You have a manual or auto. I just assumed manual.

[lifted2wdranger]

yea plumcrazy has told me it would work, i havent tried, so i dont know for sure, and yea i got the manual trans, and ill take a look at that site, thanks jfive.

[89 ranger toy]

Where is a good place to get all these parts and what more would it take to make 400 rwhp? Thanks for all the info.

[Bam511]

I am going to drop this stuff in my 2.3 97 ranger. Will all of this fit on my truck without me having to change a bunch of stuff? And can i put this stuff in little by little or should it all be done at once?

[splatranger95]

Where is a good place to get all these parts and what more would it take to make 400 rwhp? Thanks for all the info.

Ebay, summit, jegs, JY.... Youre gonna have to look around. for 400. you need a cam a good port job and some more boost.....


@bam

It fits..... dependent on air conditioning and stuff you may have to take some stuff out, but Since it didnt come stock, some stuff is gonna have to change. All of your answers are in this forum somewhere. Look around and you'll find it. If you cant, Post a specific question and someone will help. Youre kind of asking generalities, and there is really no way to answer those.

Also, youre gonna want to do everything at once. You could change pistons and not put the turbo on right away, but thats about all you can do. once you put that turbo on, it all has to be done so it will run right.

[Pulse_tuning]

Is there a difference between a 96 2.3 head, and a 98 2.5 head?

[RacinGas]

Bigger CC and slightly better flow, would work quite well on a 2.3L swap to lower compression a bit further

[Pulse_tuning]

If I buy a used SCT x calibrator 2 can I reset it for my truck our do I have to send it in?

[splatranger95]

If I buy a used SCT x calibrator 2 can I reset it for my truck our do I have to send it in?

You would have to get it unlocked by SCT. There is a tricky way around doing that, but you have to know the guy selling it and have him willing to work with you on that. Im not gonna post about it though, because I dont wanna get into any trouble....

[WSMkid]

You say 300 rwhp....but you never say at what boost?

GJ

[splatranger95]

You say 300 rwhp....but you never say at what boost?

GJ

Like 18 should do it. The reason for this, is every motor will be different. Boost is the variable which will allow you to change how much power your motor will make. My p&p job may be better than yours so I make 300 at 12 psi and Jo Schmo makes 300 at 22psi...

make sense? Those parts will handle 20-25 psi (careful on the HG around 25 with no studs) so just turn up the boost if you need more power.

[WSMkid]

Right...but I'm sure if a person has more time/$ than they know what to do with they could run 40# and make 300..see what I'm saying? not nockin any thing, just wastin time and brain power I guess.

Thanks

GJ

[muddpawz]

The ideal goal is less boost, more power. Depending on components, tuning, design characteristics some may achieve said hp rating at a much lower boost level than others. Watermeth, nos, air/water ic, intake style/location..........etc....etc...efficientcy is the key. LEss stress, more power, longer engine life----more fun!!! As for running 40#s that is an example of the opposite of what you ideally want, to make only 300hp. The time and money used on that, to me, is a waste of time and working backwards. Unless I read that wrong

[WSMkid]

no I was just pointing out that with that list 300 "could" be made with as little as 3(its a number) or up to 40#. Its like ok tv when they say "order now for just 5 easy payments"..never say what the payments are untill you call. So really I have been playin mind games for all I can tell.

[Bennpapa]

2.5L motor
rods= 380$
pistons= 400$
rings = 120$
http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/category/4cylinder/
----------------
If you have a 2.5L you can put a 2.3L crank in it with 2.3L rods and pistons.
2.3L Rods & pistons= 50$
crank for your block=50$
rings = 50$
____________________
60lb injectors = 250$
90mm MAF meter = 80$
255LPH FP = 70$
Xcal-2 = 300$
Turbo = 300$
Header = 200$
38MM WG = 80$
Intercooler& pipe= 180$
head studs = 100$
1035 head gasket = 54$
stge 3 clutch = 300$
--------
2.3L = 2150$
That is what you are going to need for the basics. I can promise you 300+ RWHP and up to 105+ MPH runs in the 1/4MI with a 2.3L
2.5L = 3050$
This is a 2.5L with crower rods wiesco pistons total seal rings. with the stock head a 2.3L and a 2.5L are going to run about the same.
If you had all those parts setting there it would take about 2-3 days to have your truck up and running 300+ RWHP. You will still need a boost gauge.

So your using stock 2.3 rods and pistons after swapping in the 2.3 crank?

[beluga420]

So your using stock 2.3 rods and pistons after swapping in the 2.3 crank?


If you're talking about the 2.5 liter, then you need a small journal 2.3 crank from years 93-97 I think. And by stock 2.3 rods and pistons he mean forged ones that came in turbocoupe and svo's.

[Bennpapa]

If you're talking about the 2.5 liter, then you need a small journal 2.3 crank from years 93-97 I think. And by stock 2.3 rods and pistons he mean forged ones that came in turbocoupe and svo's.

Ok thanks. Any idea where I can get these new at a good price?

[Bennpapa]

I found a set of rods that say d42e-aa is this suitable for a turbo build? Also found these pistons they say for 2.3 turbo but I'm skeptical of them. Can't post a pic from iPhone apparently but pistons are sold by grumpy's on ebay, here is the link to mobile sight.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=270855070685&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=23689910702

[Baxter]

Hey guys, I'm looking at a set of 42lb injectors from a Mustang. Will these fit my 2.3L and what kind of HP am I lookin' at with 'em?

[imaprobowler]

They should. But second opinion would be nice. To my understanding, most Ford injectors are plug and play. I think you'd be good for 250 at the wheels with a 80mm MAF from a lightning and T3. Look in some project logs. 42's are common.

[AJ_Fritz]

42s should get you a little closer to 350hp maxed out, and would work great with your 96 ecu.

as a good relation 35# will net you 300hp at a 100% so with some simple math 35/42=300/? 42s should get you 360.

[imaprobowler]

Wow I underrated them. Thanks for correcting AJ. I just know when Jess was running 42's on a T3/T4 he was netting 278 on the dyno so I guess I did underrate them, but also, the amount you're boosting is a big deal too.

[Baxter]

Right on. Hopefully I can snag 'em!

[imaprobowler]

Right on. Hopefully I can snag 'em!

Go for it man. We always love to see people building up Ranger's to run the streets here!