1992 OBD I ranger build!

[jfive]

Figured I have enough of an idea to start a parts list and maybe put up pics of all the stuff I have.

As of now, I have a 1992 2.3, one 1984 ranger 2.3
Two ported big valve heads, one still not finished.
8993 head gasket(not sure what engine its gonna go on).
One turbo head intake setup, one obd I ranger intake setup not finished.
One set of 1988 turbo coupe pistons and rods with arp bolts, Mahle perfect circle rings.
One x4rti merkur turbo valve cover
Two chinese t3/t4 turbochargers, one used one new.
Two 2.3 exhaust flanges and T3 flanges, one 38mm wastegate flange. Mild steel to make two differant manifolds.
Autometer boost gauge
Arp Head studs
Clevite bearings
Stage 3 Clutch kit with 6 puck disc.
Extra M50D tranny 109k.
Two sets of home made cal tracs 80% done
Bosch 044 fuel pump
Accufab fuel pressure regulator boost referanced
Set of 83 lb low ohm injectors
Turbo Concepts 38mm wastegate
Two intercoolers, one leaks and the other is a bit too small, but better than a oem one.
Push button start setup, not sure if its gonna go on this or the 84(most likely the 84).

.......What it looked like when I started Yikes!
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/231.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/044pump.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1020839.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/injectors.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/23manifold2.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1020693.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/23flange2.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/accufabfuel.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1020664.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/0604102256a.jpg
And what it will look like in the end. LOL
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/donnase23.jpg

[escortluver19]

im assuming your going DIS with this truck?

[jfive]

Well I picked up my block today and its all ready to go together as soon as bearing and rings arrive. http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010414.jpghttp://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010412.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

Not being picky or anything, but It looks like there is still some ridge in those cylinders. Might want to let others chime in on this one but I know I wouldn't be happy with that hone job.

[jfive]

are you talking about the hairline on the top of the cylinders that will never meet any rings? its smooth as a babys bottom. I wanted it honed little as possible to ensure my use of factory turbo pistons. Anyone think this will cause an issue let me know, cause I think it will be great. It was honed with a real hone, not one of those hook up to a corded drill and do it your self. He brought the cylinders back to square, so it did more in some areas then others, but this is the right way of doing it. Might look good to the naked eye to use the cheap dingle berry hones, but they aren't good in my opinion. Cost me 70.00 to have it cleaned up, partial disasemble, honed, pistons mic'd, block deck cleaned up, and threads cleaned. Should have it together in two weeks, and then I just need to wait to get the head finished. Still need to disassemble and port and polish and bigger valves.

[radrangerXLT]

If you're looking at the pictures, in every cylinder there looks to be a ridge about 3/8" down from the top of the bores, right about where the top rings would stop when the pistons reach TDC. It could just be your camera playing tricks though. I'd assume it looks completely different in person.

As long as you can't catch it with your fingernail I don't see any problems with you running it, the crosshatch looks good as well.

After a light hone job my stock turbo pistons slipped right in without any excessive piston to wall clearance.

[96lowslow]

using a torque plate also gives you a couple hp when you drop your engine off at the machine shop, have them do that.

[AJ_Fritz]

hard to find a machine shop that has a torque plate for a 2.3 and they aint cheap.

[jfive]

I ordered ARP rod bolts, main and rod bearings, and Napa has sealed power rings. I will have the rod bolts installed, and then I will clean the oil pan and the rest of the bottom end parts, and then I am gonna assemble the bottom end and bag it for about a month or so, when I can get my head finished. So far it looks like this build is gonna come well with in budget.

[jfive]

I dropped off my rods and piston to have the arp bolts put in them, and got my clevite bearings, and now gonna get sealed power rings just cause they are good for the money, and done a bunch of research on total seal, and about 40% of the time people are unhappy with them. I know people have good luck too, but I don't want to gamble. Thanks for the recommendation anyways speed. LOL. Should have a short block assembly by the end of next week.

[jfive]

So I got my rods back today, with arp bolts and resized. Cost me 40 bucks for labor to do it, so not bad. Heres some pics, but I took them with my phone so sorry about the quality. To tired from getting the camper ready to go camping tomarrow. Starting monday or tuesday, I will put the short block together if i get some assembly lube. I was told to torque rod bolts to 40lbs. with arp lube. Also need my rings to show up. http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/0604102256.jpg http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/0604102256a.jpg

[Skyy_4life]

looks good. did u have the rods resized/reconditioned?

how much was total cost on getting the rod bolts put in?

[jfive]

Total cost was 85 for the bolts and to have them resized/reconditioned. I thought it was a fair price. I'm sure most would charge you a little more, but throw that number out and see if someone will do it for that. I tried to get a picture of the rod itself to show how it looks after, but my phone camera lens is getting beat to heck.

[jfive]

So I ordered rings last night, and ordered the E441K sealed power, but northerautoparts didn't actually have them and said he would upgrade me to perfect circle rings with moly top ring for no extra charge. I also dropped my head off and my big valves, and I am having it drilled out and maged, and hot tanked. Then I will port and polish and do the combustion chamber, then take it back and have bronze valve guide liners installed and 3 angle valve grind, and surfaced so 1035 should work good. I figure in the next two weeks I will be in trouble for spending money, but have my motor ready. Does 300.00 sound high for all that I am having done?

[jfive]

Rings came in today, and they are perfect circle now made by MAHLE. Part Number 41411. Should be good rings. Hope they work out for this build. I know mahle makes great stuff, although I have never used any of there stuff. Would be assembleing my motor, but the guy that was gonna borrow me a snap on ring compressor is not answering his phone and wasn't home. As soon as I have one, and a good torque wrench it will have pictures. I have a torque wrench from carquest, but it was only 50.00 so not sure if its worthy.

[jfive]

I have one piston ready, three to go. I have been building a dog house so I don't drown my new puppy. ( just kidding) I also got the block on the engine stand and all the parts together to assemble as soon as I get the other rings on and the carbon off two pistons. I bought a dollar store bathroom toilet scrubber to clean them, and a can of brake cleaner. Bought a tube of assembly lube, plasti gauge, piston ring compressor(9.99) at napa. I like that I am making some progress. Thought it would be august before I was this far.

[jfive]

Been lazy, with other chores building up on me, but I have aquired an E6 manifold off ebay for 32.00 shipped with all studs and no cracks, a volvo intercooler for 31.00 shipped hopefully able to hold enough boost, and a new porting bit from fastenal for unshouding the valves when I get it back from the machine shop. My block is collecting crap from the WD i sprayed on it, so now I am gonna have to reclean it with brake cleaner and some blue towels. Need head studs, gaskets, cam, injectors, intercooler tubing, ajs flip brackets possibly???, and t3 wastegate mount, tunning (stuff), and some cool weather so I can stay motivated to start tearing my old (new) motor out. Probubly will be nice to drive the scion to work since it has a/c anyways. If anyone reads this crap and is going to be buying 72 to 83 lbs high ohm injectors and wants to split a set of 8 let me know. Might have a line on some used 72s out of an ls1 that should work, or maybe someone has found some themselves but doesn't want the 4 extra. Let me know. I think I am going to port the E6 and ceramic coat it to help the heat pass through. Also has anyone ever ceramic coated there hot side on there turbo. I have seen it done, and wonder if it might be worth taking mine apart.

[jfive]

Well got my head back today, and its been drilled out and exhaust seats put in. Need to start porting it so I can take it back in a week. Kinda nice having it all clean so you can see what to port and what to polish. Gonna order a head gasket so I can unshroud the valves too. Gonna take some real good pictures to to show off the local work. http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010695.jpg http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010694.jpg

[fordnut71]

sounds like your making nice progress jfive. keep a old set of valves for when you grind in the chambers. this way you can nick up the valves an not the seats.

[BogusSVO]

looks good so far make sure you work the throat of the bowl on the intake well

[jfive]

So been porting since the temps have dropped in the garage. http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010758.jpg http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010760.jpg http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1010761.jpg

[AJ_Fritz]

this is the early dual plug head right?

looking good so far but watch the spot next to the valve guide towards the front of the head. you can up into the pocket but you cant go out towards the valve seat. right were it looks like a ramp. really thin spot right there and you will hit water. concentrate on the short side.

on the chambers blend everything around the spark plugs. alot of material to remove there.

[jfive]

So I hit a snag with my brand new craftsman compressor. The aluminum tubing that transfers the air from the pump to the tank cracked and left me 50% done with the intakes. I tried to fix it but I am unable to find the brass fitting i need at any parts store. Its the part that clamps down on the tubing as you tighten the fitting. Anyways, we had an old compressor at work that we stopped using, cause its slow to air up and leaks, but I brought it home and it never had trouble keeping enough pressure to port. If I do decide to paint my truck, I am definately using this one. I got so much done in one hour. Now my arms are tired, but now I am 85% done with the intake ports. Did a little on the combustion chamber too, but I really wish I had a jig to hold the head at differant angles so I could get the combustion chambers done. Kurt should be doing heads for all of us!!! LOL. I still need to make it to the horse store for a syringe, so I know how much I have got to take from each chamber. I really wish I had a homemade flow bench too. I want to have them flow the same, but no way of knowing really with out one. Guess I am gonna not do a full out port job, but I have made piles of shavings, so I know I have made improvements. Also I now have more parts pileing up. I can't wait to do some dyno tuning to see how much money it takes to make XXX amount of power.

[mastersmith]

good to see you are making progress. Ive been putting the mustang on hold, trying to get my bronco ready for Top Truck Challenge.

[rangergt]

Looking good jfive. I don't know what kind of a table your working with but I have a steel 3/8" thick weld table that I drill and tap to add fixtures or jigs to or I just tack weld a fixture to the table then break them off and file the table smooth when I'm done. I'd bend a couple bolts to the right angle and tack them to a steel table but your right it would be easier to have Kurt do them. If your using a wood table bend some bolts of round stock and weld them to some short 1/4" flat bar drilled out to screw down to the table. If your table's big enough you could have a couple different angle setup and move it from station to station as needed.

[jfive]

Well i used everything I could find to prop the head so that I could get to all the different areas, and 10 mins ago I finally finished porting the head. Still need to get some stuff to do the combustion chambers, but at least the intake and exhaust are done. only shitty deal is on the last intake i touched the valve surface cause I was repositioning myself. Not to bad, but I did so good until that point. I'd put up some pics, but its covered in shaving, and I am to tired to do all that right now. Need some parts bogus if you read this. need valve seals and guides.

[jfive]

Well my head isn't assembled yet, but I need a camshaft to do so. Might just go drop it back off and have the valves and all installed, and then then have them check retainer to guide clearance. Then I bought a wideband thank you mastersmith, and also got some aluminum sheet metal, and a milwakee chop saw and 14 inch cut off disc, and gonna start working on a custom intake manifold. Gonna give the hts2000 rod a try and see what happens. I have read that it works great for assembling intercooler piping. Might take the cover off my spare m50d, and check to see if I have a metal or plastic funnel and make sure its clean. Might clean it out and put in new fluid.

[dangeranger93]

are you gonna make the whole intake or just rotate the upper?

[jfive]

Neither actually, I am using the 89 to 94 intake, and i cut off the throttle body, and i am gonna build a box ontop of it and make it so that the throttle body is facing forward. I'll put up some pictures. gonna be kind like reggiosime, but differant. Also gonna try making one like muddpawz is in the process of making.

[fordnut71]

get some material either wood or steel. what ever you can use an make 2 big x's an use a length about the length of the head to hold the 2 x's together. that will give you 45* of work area.

[jfive]

Probubly gonna have to try that, since its gonna be hard to have it at a 90* when brazing. On another plus note, I found a guy today that has a brand new 2008 duramax intercooler for 100.00. Thats right 100.00. He bought the truck and immediatly put a banks kit on that came with a new intercooler, and now he is getting rid of his old stuff. I found they go for 450.00 used. I hope it will be small enough to fit in a ranger. If they can hold up to 42 psi in a truck, I know its a good one. Figure its better not to pass this up then mess with the free toyo intercooler I have that needs straightened and welded/brazed.

[jfive]

Picked it up even if I don't use it in this truck. It measures 44 inches wide at the widest part, and its about 18 to 16 inches tall. I figure I will try to mount it infront of the radiator, and just move the radiator forward 2 3/4 inches closer to the motor. Might just get rid of the fan and get an electric fan, and have tons of clearance. On the intake side of the intercooler, it has a nice bend turned up. Guy without even knowing me gave it to me and said pay me by the end of the month. I said take the 50.00 in my wallet at least and I'll be back with the other half as soon as I get paid.

[Ron83ranger]

will 44" clear the headlights. thats a big one. nice score though, i did the same, i drilled the spot welds on the lower rad. mounts and moved them back about 2" and rewelded em in place and just used spacers up top for the explorer rad. my cooler was 3" thick x 13" tall x 33-34" wide(maybe wider i dont remem.) alot of cutting around the cooler though.

[jfive]

Gonna mount it inside the engine compartment, where the headlights wont be an issue. If it becomes to much work, I will hold out for the 84 ranger when I do a V8 turbo, and then I will make a custom radiator shroud that will allow for it. But it looks like it will fit inbetween the radiator and the frame work. Might have to loose the fan and go with electric ones, but I'll have to wait until the engine is out to start messing around. Gonna move the battery to the back for weight exchange too.

[Ron83ranger]

when i moved my battery i found a jump post out of a BMW that i mounted to my drivers inner fender. it saved a lot of hassle in finding a place for all the power wires and cleaned up the starter solenoid to just a couple wires which i also moved. most bmers have rear mount batteries with 2 gauge feed wires.

[K G]

been a bit anything new?
K G

[jfive]

No. Not really. I have worked on opening up the combustion chambers on my head, as I am going to be dropping it back off at the machinst soon. Been lazy, and out of money. Got stuff selling on ebay with there no cost listing fee they have going on. Just need to get rid of some more chevy parts I got hanging around, and I can afford the squirt, injectors, intercooler piping, and a few other things. Got enough for two headers right now, so gonna be ordering parts soon. Thinking of parting out the engine in my other ranger too, as I think I am 100% sure that I am going to do a V8 swap this summer. Have a engine, and dual sump oil pan allready, so just need to make engine mounts and go get this baby C6 I found for 150.00 out of a 87 Van. Want a Corvair buggy for 100.00. LOL

[K G]

try selling your buggy here http://www.dune-buggy.com/forsale/forsale.cgi
K G

[jfive]

Well, I have added more parts to the build. I have a wastegate in route, a fpr found, but not purchased, been trying to get a lightly used bosch 044 inline pump, and then some injectors. Also my 90* butt welds came today. Can't believe how light they are from what I thought they would weigh. 16 of em weigh 11lbs. Gonna get the flanges soon, and then make a T3 flange with quad pipe connect. Need some wider masking tape, and the puzzle begins. Need to get some 1 1/4 pipe, but its only 2.70 a foot. Been trying to talk the teacher into cutting some T3 flanges out for me with the schools plasma. We have a computer controlled one, but its not working due to some error.

[Ron83ranger]

they have them on ebay for $20 divided too. but im sure with a hole saw and a metal cutting jigsaw blade you can make them pretty easy.

[jfive]

Got my accufab regulator today. Guess I will be the first to try it out on here. Looks good. Goes well with my black and grey engine theme. Can't wait to get the rest of the stuff I need to finish this thing up. Pretty soon the wife is gonna come down on me like a hammer though since I am just about out of funds to finish, and gonna have to dip into our money. Gonna try making a few flanges with a jig saw. I cut my stuff for the barrel stove with a jigsaw blade. Very slow, but accurate. http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/accufabfuel.jpg

[Skyy_4life]

nice, how much did the regulator cost you?
i think i may take my head to a machine shop to have the chambers done, ill prolly just gasket match it myself, or get another head to practice on lol.

[turbo_steve]

Still thinking of going megasquirt???

I think it's a waste when the factory ecu is 100% tuneable.

If you go tweecer I'll make you a killer base tune and can help you out with tuning.

[fordnut71]

hey jfive open that thing up an check for trash inside of it. i have the exact same 1 an found small shavings in mine.

[jfive]

I got this one used, but its in good shape. 60.00 on ebay. I like how they look, and it was priced right. THey are 109.00 brand new i believe. automotive one is a little bit more, and people where saying they weigh too much and can break the fuel line. Not sure how much truth there is to that.

[muddpawz]

What's the model number for the regulator?

[jfive]

Not sure what the part number is, but this is the one. They list it for 86 to 93 mustangs with the 5.0. I crossed referanced the oem regulators of the 2.3 and the 5.0 and they are the same, so it should work great. http://www.v8power.com/mustangparts/ecom-prodshow/ACCFREG.html

[fordnut71]

1 bought mine a few years ago from forced4.com
http://www.forced4.com/svostore.html

[jfive]

Got a megasquirt for 115.00 the other day. Its a MS I but can be updated to do full ignition. Also got some 83lb siemen deka low ohm injectors, for me and for another member. 156.00 each set. :rockwoot: Just need to update the squirt, get cam, and get head back from machinst, and intercooler is gonna need fixed. Gonna try out the rest of the HTS 2000 brazing rod on the intercooler. Hopefully in a month I will have everything together and ready to be swapped out. The do a little :peelout:

[turbo_steve]

I've wondered how that stuff would work to braze charge piping together. I may have to try it.

[jfive]

Should work good. A guy used that cheap alumirod from harbor freight to do his charge pipe and says it holds good. I am gonna try it too. Its really alot like soldering, and think of the pressure that copper pipe has when its soldered in boiler systems.

[jfive]

Got injectors today. 83lb Siemens Dekas for 156.00 after splitting with Jeff.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/injectors.jpg

[jfive]

Believe they had these on amazon for 52.00 shipped. Wohoo!
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i346/evifj/0413112330.jpg

[Skyy_4life]

lookin good bro. i gotta get my head build started, heh. got a few other minor things to finish first though.

[jfive]

Got my first 8.8 today. A little rusty, but for 75.00 I can sand, wire wheel it off. Came with the factory mono leafs too. Do any of you guys use them when swaping.
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i346/evifj/0414111808.jpg

[dangeranger93]

i know regular explorer leafs lift about 4 inches, so you could use them to keep stock ride height, but who does that? :D

[jfive]

I want stock ride height. I don't personally care for lowered vehicles that much. Don't mind looking at them, but they are just not for me. Living in montana, they make for more problems. Need as much clearance as i can get. I'd hate to scrap or drag on a speed bump or something. lol

[jfive]

Got more parts. Fuel pumps came today, and got a glowshift 3 3/4" tach with shift light. Amazing all the little things that you don't think about. Wish I had 3000.00 from the beginning to just buy all the parts at once so I could be starting this swap. Been so busy at work, not sure when I am gonna be able to do stuff on this when I do have everything. Hate to work all the time, but pretty sure my wife would divorce me with all the stuff I buy if I wasn't putting in the extra hours at work.

[jfive]

Well I have had parts arriving for the past week or two. Its crazy how much crap you really need to do this, that you don't think of. I am gonna start a parts list with prices so people can see what it cost, and I bought most parts at a discounted price. Clutch came and it looks good. Hope it holds the power. Hope to start working as soon as it cools down, and I finish my season at the airport which is sept. 6 or 7th.

[jareeb]

you still using qh?

[jfive]

Gonna do megasquirt. Need more than quarterhorse can offer. Got low impendance injectors, and I want to be able to rev it to 6500 approx.

[jfive]

Updated first page, and gonna add more soon!

[D94R]

J, the one piece header flange you posted on the first page, where did you get it?

[jfive]

Montana guy that 73gt put me intouch with. He charged 81.00 for both flanges with shipping. Done with a waterjet, and definately the best quality you can get. I can get you intouch if you wish to have a set. He has the cutout on file I'm pretty sure.

[D94R]

They 1/2", or able to be made 1/2"? I only need the head flange, I have a turbo flange on the way.

It would save me from hacking up the old cracked Bob-log I have just for one flange.

[jfive]

I had parked the ranger for winter, but decided, to work on getting my brackets for the other bucket seat done, and get them mounted securely. Gonna try and get some prep work done, so I can start on this for real in spring. Is it just me or does the slave cylinders in these not like to work as well when its cold outside? Pictures when I'm done.

[splatranger95]

So you still planning on making that mild steel header? It just doesnt look like it will flow well at all. (At least from the pic on the first page) I hope it works out for ya.

[jfive]

That header from the first page made 28?rwhp and 33?rwtq if I recall correctly. It was on a 2.3 with port work a hy35 and 25psi or so. Not bad if ya ask me. It allowed the owner to have all the factory goodies on a mazda miata swap. To each his own. I plan on making a log like that using the crappy 3/8 ebay flange I got and gonna do it with a stick welder to show it can be done. Would do with a mig and might still since my dad has a decent LTec one. I plan on having some good results with everything, and only time on the dyno will really show whats up.

[splatranger95]

True. That is pretty good for a homemade header. I hope it turns out good. Keep us posted.

[jfive]

Well I went to go start the truck yesturday and the battery was dead after sitting for 5 weeks while I was gone working. Gave it a jump and it started right up. Battery is a 10 year old everstart from walmart. Not a bad battery to last that long anyways, but I have had horrible luck with any brand anymore, so I broke down and bought a interstate battery. 100.00 for a ranger mtp 58. Little pricy, but I hope it lasts 10 years as all new batterys seam to be garbage anymore. Goal right now is to get my other bucket seat in so my daughter or wife, or anyone for that matter can ride with me. Sucks having room for only one. Gonna try and fab some brackets up with my harbor freight arc welder tonight and get it done and cut the rubber floor mat to fit. Need to get things done while I am home.

[jfive]

Decided to get off my but for a little while and do something, I have been putting off. Went like shit at first, but after I did some head scratching, I found that 1" pieces of pvc pipe would hold the 90's to the header flange so I could figure where my tack welds needed to be. Got the two middle runners done, but gonna have to build a juntion box for the merge of the runners to the T3 flange.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1030578.jpg
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af172/jfive_5/P1030577.jpg

[jareeb]

That's something I would like to try. I think I'm gona make a long tube header for my n/a build .where did you buy the mandrel piping?

[jfive]

Its from Acestainless.com They have 90s in mild steel like I am using, and they have it in 304 and 316 stainless.

[rangergt]

That's something I would like to try. I think I'm gona make a long tube header for my n/a build .where did you buy the mandrel piping?

If your building a NA header then I wouldn't use weld els. They work great for turbo headers because of the extra thickness for strength and heat retention but would be kind of heavy for NA header. If I rememer correctly Ace stainless has mandrel bends though or try columbia river mandrel bends.

jive, what are you using to weld your header? I can't remeber what you have? Too many thread and post about welders I get confused lol.

[jfive]

Good catch GT. I would have suggested columbia manderal bending too. I have a 3/8" flange thats for manderal bend header if you need one? It has oval ports so the port don't match my thick material. That way you can use 1 5/8 and square the ports at the flange. Let me know if your interested. I paid 50.00 with shipping and could do the same. I am using a ac/dc arc welder from harbor freight and 3/32 7018 rod. Not ideal, but gonna have a 140amp tig pretty soon, and then gonna sell the harbor freight. Probubly gonna wait to do the runners to the header flange till I get the tig. I can actually get the whole tube part done without actually welding it at all to the flange. Might do a few tack welds to possition it, but also gonna pull my 2.3 from my older ranger to keep the flange straight.

[jareeb]

Not sure yet if I'm gona make one I don't want stainless because it will coat me to much and I would have.to get different wire for my mig. Google time :)

Edit found this Guy
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/HED-89370

[splatranger95]

You have a 94 right? According to that, it wont fit. Check out racer walsh



Very good J. You have inspired me to learn more about welding. I can mig and tig just fine, but I dont know the science behind it, and the way you talk about the diff wire types and rods, I really need to learn more. SO I bought a book. Just letting you know, youre motivating people.

[jfive]

Good. I am no pro yet, but I like to practice as much as possible. They guys at the steel place are gonna know me by my first name shortly, as I go in there and get scarps to make things all the time. I am just really surprised at how much you can do with a arc welder. Got to have DC though as AC buzz boxes will just frustrate the shit out of ya.

[jareeb]

Yeah AC sucks also itlf you want to weld thin metal switch the polarity so that the arc is coming off the metal and into the rod.

[AJ_Fritz]

j you might want to add an inch to the port side of the runner at the flange or your going to be very close to your wires. it will also make it easier for plug changes.

[jfive]

Well I went to the pawn shop and got a 1250lb engine stand, and put my 84 on the charger so I could try to pull it in and take the engine out for mockup of the whole thing and couldn't get the dang thing started. Carb engines suck. Will do if I have too. I have 8 ft of sch 40 pipe as you can see in the edges of the picture. Can't wait to finish one, so I can do two or three more.