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freebyrd24
05-20-2008, 02:14 PM
Anyone have the torque specs for the 2.3L SVO rod bearing caps?

also what are the crankshaft bearing cap torque specs?

Thank you!

nagelandy55
05-20-2008, 06:29 PM
30-36 lb-ft is written in my 96 ranger manual, it should be the same for all of them but i'd wait till someone else verifies this. Make sure you don't overtighten.

freebyrd24
05-20-2008, 06:33 PM
Yea I'm sure someone will have the exact ones. Thank you though.

The crank is from a 2.3 ranger going into my 2.5, and the rods and pistons are stock from an SVO

freebyrd24
05-21-2008, 09:21 PM
I recieved my rods and pistons today! I was checking threw them and all of the numbers matched on each rod and each piston. However 3 of my pistons have a "3" stamped on the face of the piston, while only one has a "5" stamped on the face. Does this have any relevence? Is this normal or is this from a different motor or something? They all appear to be equal, and the code stamped on the underside of the pistons are all the same

bruiser
05-22-2008, 05:07 PM
are they new or used?
i dont thing that matters not sure tho

freebyrd24
05-22-2008, 05:32 PM
used out of an svo. They seem identical, just strange to see one with a different numbering

bruiser
05-23-2008, 11:13 AM
as long as the rods and rods caps match you should be fine

Jesshwarren
05-23-2008, 02:14 PM
Just make sure the caps are matched to the rod. If not you will have a problem.

freebyrd24
06-01-2008, 01:51 PM
So is the consensus about the crankshaft mains 30-36 ft-lbs? Is it the same for the stock rod bolts? I should be doing this either later today or next weekend. Most likely next weekend!

freebyrd24
06-05-2008, 08:36 PM
Bump bump! I'm going to start tomorrow. Can anyone else verify crankshaft cap torque and rod cap torque??

Jesshwarren
06-05-2008, 09:07 PM
My manual is out in the garage. So I don't have the specs on me. I'll see if I can get them tonight.

freebyrd24
06-06-2008, 10:08 AM
I read 76 ft-lb for crankshaft mains? and 30-36 for rods?

Jesshwarren
06-06-2008, 03:32 PM
I read 76 ft-lb for crankshaft mains? and 30-36 for rods?

I would go 80lb on the crank and 40 on rod caps.

freebyrd24
06-06-2008, 04:23 PM
Sounds good. I have a torque wrench that only goes up to 75ft-lb. Should I go find a bigger torque wrench for the other 5ft-lbs?

bruiser
06-06-2008, 05:47 PM
i torqued my arp rod bolts to 40 ft lbs


main bearing cap bolts.
Tighten the bolts in pairs in three steps.
Finger-tighten the bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 68-81 Nm (51-59 lb/ft).
Tighten the bolts to 102-115 Nm (76-84 lb/ft).
Measure crankshaft torque-to-turn;

rod bolts
Install the nuts.
Tighten the nuts in pairs in three steps.
Tighten the nuts finger-tight until flush with the bolts.
Tighten the nuts to 34-41 Nm (26-30 lb/ft).
Tighten the nuts to 41-49 Nm (31-36 lb/ft).

Jesshwarren
06-06-2008, 06:08 PM
Right on bruiser!!

That is what you want to do. 36lb sounds like the most u want for stock rod bolts.

bruiser
06-06-2008, 06:27 PM
no problem love to help whenever i can i forgot i have access to all that info since I'm a ford tech...in training so just ask away at any spec :=)

freebyrd24
06-07-2008, 10:56 AM
Excellent advice! I actually did torque them down almost exactly that way in 3 stages! How much torque should there be when turning the crankshaft by the bolt? I saw you mentioned to check that

flyin
06-08-2008, 01:12 AM
Hey Bruiser, you said that you are a Ford tech in training. Are you an asset student?

bruiser
06-08-2008, 04:05 PM
Hey Bruiser, you said that you are a Ford tech in training. Are you an asset student?

yup im on my second year

flyin
06-09-2008, 12:05 PM
I graduated in1996 and worked about 10 years in the dealers. The training during and after school was very good. The more you put into it the more you will get out. Do the dealers have the volume of work to support new techs down there?

bruiser
06-09-2008, 02:27 PM
yeah its not to bad theres some weeks where we cant even take lunch...but for the most parts i work on diesels and ive heard the good money is in that so im leaning toward a diesel tech but i do wanna get master certified as well

flyin
06-15-2008, 11:54 PM
I did a little of everything over the years. Transmissions were good money as a lot of guys didnt want any part of them. I personally didn't like working on the 6.0's. I had a 14000lb lift and all the room I needed for big vehicles, I just thought the warranty times were a little low. Ideally If I had to do it again I would want the whole shop to be diesel certified and share it with everyone. Go with what you like take the training and learn all you can

bruiser
06-16-2008, 12:10 AM
yeah deff. i could probly start working on my own(without a mentor) on diesel most of the problem on all of them repeat for every truck that comes in...the new 08 diesels are a pain idk if you've ever had to replace a high pressure pump on a 6.0 but on the new 6.4's are a PITA you have to pull the cab to get to it but once youve done 3 or for there a cake walk

flyin
06-19-2008, 12:35 AM
I always thought the body lift was the way to go. It makes f150 and exped/navigators into easy engine work. I did many. Most people thought it was a great idea but after a while I started to avoid the owners seeing it.

bruiser
06-19-2008, 01:34 AM
i don't do much gas work like today i started on pulling a 6.0's motor needs nw heads...:(

Jesshwarren
06-19-2008, 07:25 AM
It's about the only way to do motor work on a 6.0L. Lift the cab.

bruiser
06-19-2008, 09:37 AM
yeah just about
hey yall thing a 6.0 intercooler would fit???

nagelandy55
06-19-2008, 04:20 PM
might with a bit of work. B2rubo has one in his B2 over on RPS.

bruiser
06-19-2008, 06:10 PM
hmmmm i forsee the next 6.0 i work on will need a intercooler....=) warranty of course