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View Full Version : Wideband Tune or broken help?


Thedrifter
08-01-2010, 08:31 PM
so i have the Glow Shift wideband setup, i am wondering who else is using this company? i just dont know how acurate it is or if i need to re calibrate it or something.

here's my situation i swaped out my e6 manifold and ihi turbo for a bob's log and t3t4 my a/f ratio changed dramiticly it shows to idle at 20:1 :frown2: however that was only after it ran a wile and im not just saying warned up, example, first time i started her she was around 16:1 idle even when she was warmed up, but after a couple cycles she is constantly 20:1 idle
When i do regular driving it's around 15:1 that's not so bad because its not in boost and shows 20lbs vacuum have not opened up much kinda scared too:(

some of the thing's im going to try looking for boost/vaccum leaks.

maby adjust the tune? should it of changed this much just by swaping turbo and manifold?

maby an air leak in the exhaust somehow? this is least likely but ive seen stranger thing's

AirBender
08-01-2010, 08:56 PM
when you open up the pathway for the engine to get air in and out,,,, the natural tendency is to lean out....have you gone back and verified base pressure at the fpr? that may have also changed... you need to look at all the basics since youve made changes.... thats what alot of people dont understand.... when you make a mod or improvement everything changes and as a result everything needs to be readjusted......

AJ_Fritz
08-01-2010, 09:34 PM
it should idle around 15 when warmed up. when cold it should be in the 12-13 at idle.

at cruise it should be 15-14. as you give it throttle to accelerate its should start at 14 and get progressively rich as load increases to 11-10 at 100% load (full throttle, full boost). when you lift it should go into decelerate full cut and AFR should be in the 20's until it reaches idle rpm.

Thedrifter
08-01-2010, 10:12 PM
hmm we'll im going to try and add some fuel then i dont have all my tool's with me atm so cant check fuel psi, i went and check for a boost leak only issue a found was my Forge dump valve now im just curious do i need to apply boost to it's vacuum line to help it seal? otherwise it's leaking but barely imput on the matter?

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDV004

Unlike single piston or diaphragm diverter valves, this uses counter balanced springs and dual pistons to prevent the valve from leaking air into the intake system at idle. This prevents our diverter valves suffering any of the failures associated with single piston and diaphragm type diverter valves.

AJ_Fritz
08-02-2010, 11:52 AM
a leaking BOV is a problem you need to get it sealed up. referance line should be from behind the throttle body. might need a stiffer spring.

BogusSVO
08-02-2010, 01:26 PM
I have been reading about issues with glowsfit products on other fourms.. (DSM Tuners)

they seem not to be highly thought of.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/349066-dont-buy-glowshift-products.html

Thedrifter
08-02-2010, 07:03 PM
a leaking BOV is a problem you need to get it sealed up. referance line should be from behind the throttle body. might need a stiffer spring.

i dont think so i was talking to my local speed shop Fusionworks Racing and boost pressure comming from the vacuum line actually helps seal, and i didn't have that under pressure when i was looking for boost leak's, i might look into the spring's maby talk to there tech support just to verify.

I have been reading about issues with glowsfit products on other fourms.. (DSM Tuners)

they seem not to be highly thought of.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/349066-dont-buy-glowshift-products.html

i brought the glowshift up to Ray "owner" with Fusionworks as well and he said that there junk and he doesn't carry them because of issues like mine he named off a couple brands that he carried i liked the AEM the hole setup seemed better built than what i had, he suggested making shure i didn't have any exhaust leaks before the sensor first tho... hmm thats not an easy task, if i do it's on the 5 bolt flange were i used high temp rtv, o well spose i order a gasket. i'll let you guy's know what i find considering replacing the gauge but not shure if i wanna just throw money at my truck like that,

Thedrifter
08-03-2010, 09:15 PM
so i think i got my problem figured out,
let me engine cool of so i could feel around i was looking for exhaust leak's and i have one right here...

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee247/Drifter_75/TRK%20Project/Image000-1.jpg

it would seem that the new manifold and turbo misplaced themselves and the allignment to my down pipe was askewed, in otherwords i stock my hand behind the turbine outlet and i could feel the exhaust coming out, so it's my best theory that between exhaust pulses it was causing a type of venturi affect and drawing in fresh air, causing my wideband to read lean, this is sorta sad because i was just starting to really consider AEM lol anyways i ordered the exhaust turbine gasket and i will have to realign my exhaust down pipe,
fortunatly i used a couple band clamps in my setup and it's not all welded so this should only take about an hour now when i fix this issue we will know just how much fuel ive added to my trucks tune it's probaly running pig rich lol so :thanks: for the help fella's i'll let you know the outcome

AJ_Fritz
08-04-2010, 04:52 PM
good to see you've found the problem ya noob! i mean that kiddingly!

Thedrifter
08-05-2010, 12:34 AM
ha ha thx i fixed it today too shows 15:1 idle, it was odd going into the shop saying i need to align my exhaust:hehe: anyways when the outlet gasket arrives i just replace that too and put some sort of sealent on that flange, later:rockwoot: