PDA

View Full Version : 1996 Ranger Build Project (budget friendly)


Agent Ezzard
12-16-2010, 11:50 AM
Since I joined the board, I have been stockpiling parts here and there.

http://www.divshare.com/img/13529086-033.jpg

I bought most of the small things that I would have a hard time locating at an auto store from craigslist, ebay, various FS threads from various forums at ver good prices. I got my 60lb injectors off of craigslist for $120:rockwoot:! I still have a few things on the waiting list like an intercooler, clutch, and tuner but I'll cop all those after the holidays.

The Truck:

I have been utilizing the vat potential of craigsPRO for my iphone to search pretty much the entire State of Florida for trucks. After a few months I finally found one 15 minutes from my place.

http://www.divshare.com/img/13529088-04b

The guy wanted $1450 then down to $1000 so I said $800 and he took it. It runs, drives, AC blows could but he says it might need a head gasket.

http://www.divshare.com/img/13529097-ace.jpg

http://www.divshare.com/img/13529089-844.jpg

and last but not least....:cheers2:

http://www.divshare.com/img/13529098-279
Plans:

HE341(HE351 was stolen from my door step), built head, custom upper intake manifold I'm going to use Solidworks to help me design, and all the supporting goodies. Once it's done and running then I'll look to upgrade the rear end with one of them fancy 8.8s. I plan on being done sometime in February.

AirBender
12-16-2010, 04:16 PM
nice score on the truck...... whats the deal on the old military truck in the background.... looks cool!!

Agent Ezzard
12-16-2010, 04:51 PM
That's another 2.3 project in the works.

Agent Ezzard
01-16-2011, 04:46 PM
Well after a few weeks of procrastination when it came to the Ranger I finally got the spare motor torn down and did a little mock up to see how the HE341 would fit. There's a little interference but nothing to worry about.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/963934/turbo.JPG

I got the ARP rod bolts installed using brass hammer. Pistons and rods now only need to be given a last cleaning and then they're ready for rings and to get loaded into the block. I just need to hone the block and clean up up really good.

Yesterday I received a set of 8 carbide burrs that I am going to use to port and polish the head and also to open up the combustion chambers. I ordered a custom Schneider camshaft and springs so increasing CFM is what goal.

On a side note, I installed an Exploder cluster for the Tach. It was a simple plug and play matter and all the lights function flawlessly!

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/963934/IMG_0919.JPG

Schulzee
01-16-2011, 07:02 PM
Looking good :) What year explorer did the cluster come from? I am hoping to use my H1E holset turbo, but I will have to do a H1C/H1E hybrid. No way my 2.3 will spin a 26cm housing before redline :)

Agent Ezzard
01-16-2011, 07:40 PM
If I'm not mistaking, I believe it's out of a 1997 Explorer. My buddy with a junkyard sent it to me along with the 2.3 longblock that's currently on the engine stand.

muddpawz
01-16-2011, 09:17 PM
"A little interference"? Ha! You'll get it! It's quick builds like these that motivate me so keep it rolling

Agent Ezzard
01-16-2011, 10:06 PM
I have to cut the wastegate mounting tabs off if the compressor housing but I need to get a set of needlenose pliers to remove it from the CHRA. That along with a tiny bit of finessing the runner and it'll be good to go. I still have to order the clutch, intercooler, tuner, and some 3" mandrel bends for the exhaust.

Agent Ezzard
01-21-2011, 08:16 PM
Another box waiting for me at home.

Schneider Camshaft & Springs
http://www.divshare.com/img/13838906-827

Cam card:
http://www.divshare.com/img/13839109-504


Tomorrow I'll clean, paint, and assemble the shortbock. Hopefully I'll be able to start porting the head so that I can complete this build next month.

jfive
01-22-2011, 12:08 AM
I'm really curious how this cam works out for ya. It is a roller cam right? What Rpm range did they give you for it. Looks like you are getting alot closer to being able to put it all to use.

AJ_Fritz
01-22-2011, 04:44 PM
what was the charge for the cam from schneider, i havent decided yet who i'll get one from when i have the new head flowed.

jfive
01-22-2011, 04:50 PM
When I talked to them they said 375, but thats a good deal figuring they make the cam custom to your situation. I felt they where the best people when I talked to them this fall.

Agent Ezzard
01-22-2011, 05:06 PM
$239.00

jfive
01-22-2011, 05:16 PM
is it a roller cam? or a slider?

Agent Ezzard
01-22-2011, 05:40 PM
Now that you mentioned it, it looks like a slider and I ordered a roller. I never took it out of the plastic bag until I saw your post and went to check.

AJ_Fritz
01-22-2011, 05:46 PM
huh oh!

Agent Ezzard
01-22-2011, 05:56 PM
I know right. Ima give them a buzz and asked them what the dealy-o. I specifically told them I had a Ranger and needed a roller. It still won't slow my build down any cause I haven't gotten started porting my head yet.

I got the block cleaned and painted plus did a few things to the truck itself. I sprayed it an aluminum color.

http://www.divshare.com/img/13862462-f16

DangerRanger01
01-23-2011, 12:20 AM
Sweet build! I'm doing almost the same thing, except i scored a holset HY35 turbo (i've read they are pretty simliar to yours) and i also got the holset accomadator header so it won't interfere with the head like you're having to mess with. I can't wait to see more of this build. What all are the specs for what you're doing?

also, those valve springs look a little big for the newer heads. but maybe its just me.

jfive
01-23-2011, 12:31 AM
I didn't catch the spring part. It does seam like you got the wrong stuff. It would be good for my older ranger motor though? See what they say, and maybe someone on here or myself might be able to help you out. I am thinking about puting forged flattops in my carb 2.3 and doing a blow thru setup. That cam could be pretty helpful. Not saying I can afford it right now, but tax return is not to far away.

Agent Ezzard
01-23-2011, 06:28 PM
What all are the specs for what you're doing?


Ported head, custom upper stock TB, Schneider cam with springs (once I get that all squared away) HE341 internally gated, centermount, turbo pistons, 255 pump, 60lb injectors, Centerforce or Zoom Kevlar clutch, 31x12x3 FMIC, 3" exhaust. That's pretty much it. I'm ordering the FMIC tomorrow and then I'll have pretty much all the bulky stuff ready.

Im still up in the air with the Engine Management I want to use. I'm leaning toward using SCT and I want the ability to tune myself so I'd have to go with the advantage software.

Got nothing done today because I took a short notice drive down to Key West last night.

DangerRanger01
01-23-2011, 08:27 PM
Sounds pretty close to what i am doing. But i've port/polished my head and got it cut for larger valves....seems the juice is worth the squeeze there to me to get it all done.

Curious to why you are keeping the turbo internally wastegated? what kind of upper are you building? Seems not many late model guys mess with those, but i admit, its sooo sick looking with they are facing forward.

Agent Ezzard
01-23-2011, 09:17 PM
I'm going to design something out of sheet metal. I'm pretty good with Solidworks 3D modeling so I'll utilize that to help me with the design. I'll just have to have someone weld it cause that's not up my alley. I was thinking of bigger valves but I decided against it for now. Maybe the engine that's in the truck now I'll mess with that head and get crazier. My build was budget friendly at first but I already threw that out of the window.

I'm keeping it internally gated to minimize the exhaust piping. I rather not dump an external to the atmosphere because I don't like the noise or smell. I just ported the wastegate hole and bought a different actuator from a Saab.

My IS300 used a Blitz SBC-iD boost controller and I loved that thing. I'll probably get another one if I can find a deal on one. I never had a boost gauge in that car.

Agent Ezzard
01-24-2011, 11:21 AM
Spoke with Schneider and they're going to give me full credit and send the Roller with proper springs to me. All I have to do is send them the box back and thats it. Roller cam is $380.

jfive
01-24-2011, 02:00 PM
So does that mean your sending back the wrong stuff, or do you keep it.

Agent Ezzard
01-24-2011, 02:36 PM
Along with the box, inside it will be the wrong cam and wrong springs. I am going to sent I back this afternoon.

Agent Ezzard
01-25-2011, 07:30 PM
I've decided to go with a D-shaped plenum with velocity stacked runners with a flange that will bolt to the stock lower. As the design process comes along I'll try to post pics. I'm following a setup similar to this one.

http://www.divshare.com/img/13862484-e6c


Other news, I got the HE341 all torn down and grinded to the two alignment dowels so that I can clock the CHRA and compressor housing. That'll be all I get done until the weekend.

Agent Ezzard
01-30-2011, 07:38 PM
I was lucky enough to get an hour to myself today and desided to begin designing something worth calling an upper intake manifold.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13922418-f79


Since I have the other ening ein the truck I have to take rough estimates an heights and lengths of the plenum and everything else.

beluga420
02-05-2011, 01:22 AM
Your plenum is a great idea I was planning to do exactly the same thing for mine.

But wouldnt it flow better if the top of the runner where flush with the base of the plenum ? And with some rounded edges?

Agent Ezzard
02-05-2011, 01:27 PM
...But wouldnt it flow better if the top of the runner where flush with the base of the plenum ? And with some rounded edges?

That's just how I started the model in Solidworks. It's now an assembly of parts and will weight approximately 7lbs. when done.Also, I ended up scrapping the velocity stack idea because each one is like $40. I edited the plenum size and I'll be using the Ross Engineering (http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dplenum.html) 5" D-shaped extrusion for my plenum and 2" aluminum tubing as the runners.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13975031-932


Motivational shot:

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13968274-443
CX Racing 31x12x3 core.

reggioisme
02-05-2011, 04:11 PM
Then it will look like this
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i88/reggioisme/103_0060.jpg

and look very pretty like this...
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i88/reggioisme/103_0059.jpg

add some light to the subject like this....
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i88/reggioisme/Untitled-1.jpg


a budget is overrated...the right pedal once your done will thank you later

beluga420
02-05-2011, 04:34 PM
40$ each... wow I wonder if it really does a difference for that price lol but for the ross engineering plenum it was exactly what I was planning to get. and all this should be fitting good on the lower...
just need some good weld and the trick is done!

Agent Ezzard
02-06-2011, 06:26 PM
They also sell a flange that will accept a 75mm 5.0 throttle body that I also ordered. Since I'm not doing the velocity stacks I'll do the TB upgrade instead.

rangergt
02-06-2011, 08:41 PM
Check out ebay for velocity stacks. You might find what you need, lots on there.

Personally I would stick with your velocity stack design. I think it will work better and my research tells me it will also. Here's a couple of pics that tell alot. A pic of my own intake and one of the cosworth copy.

Just my .02 but if you don't use velocity stacks make sure you have a nice inlet radius, it'll help.

jfive
02-07-2011, 04:48 AM
Here is some eye candy intake material for ya. Just incase you need some inspiration. http://v8tvshow.com/forum/index.php?topic=2016.0 http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=92581.850

Agent Ezzard
02-07-2011, 10:17 AM
Check out ebay for velocity stacks. You might find what you need, lots on there...

You know I was looking and looking but nothing came up in the past few days that seem to be a good fit. I did find these last night and the dimensions appear to be workable. 2" tall with a 1 7/8" ID and the small and and 2 3/4" ID on the bellmouth. I am going to the try model it and see how it will fit in Solidworks. I can always cut and grind to fit.

http://www.divshare.com/img/13991661-567

I am thinking about sending them a Best Offer of 47.50 for 4 and see what they say.

Agent Ezzard
02-07-2011, 12:38 PM
Got my shipment from Ross.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13993089-288

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13993090-dac

Should come together nicely. Just have to make sure my firewall clearance is good with the runner lengths.

Agent Ezzard
02-07-2011, 07:45 PM
I modeled what I thought was a rough shape of the ebay stack in the previous above post and added it to my design. I think I may go ahead and make the offer to the ebay seller and continue on with this design. It's hard without any solid dimensions on the stack to model it correctly so F it! If anything, I'll be out of a few bucks.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13997167-cdf


I been reseaching velocity stack designs on turbo applications to see what I'd have to impliment into the design.

beluga420
02-07-2011, 10:07 PM
yep i've saw them also on ebay seems like a good choice compared to the ones from ross for the price.

Ron83ranger
02-07-2011, 11:22 PM
if you do run them i would shorten them so they dont stick up so far into the plenum. they really should only be about an 1" to 1.5"(depending on the size) above the floor of the plenum for the airflow to take a nice s-shape as it enters the runner. if you didnt know already. they will actually generate more airflow if they are positioned the proper distance from the plenum floor than just sticking them flush to the bottom.

AJ_Fritz
02-07-2011, 11:47 PM
i think the wiper motor is the thing to be concerned with for clearance.

Agent Ezzard
02-08-2011, 08:31 AM
That's exactly what I was referring to. I could notch the plenum OR I could RainX the hell out of my windshield and get rid of the wiper motor. JK!

tumuchNOS
02-08-2011, 06:48 PM
I modeled what I thought was a rough shape of the ebay stack in the previous above post and added it to my design. I think I may go ahead and make the offer to the ebay seller and continue on with this design. It's hard without any solid dimensions on the stack to model it correctly so F it! If anything, I'll be out of a few bucks.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/13997167-cdf


I been reseaching velocity stack designs on turbo applications to see what I'd have to impliment into the design.

I had an intake made for a mitsu 4g63 RWD car I had that had them add velo stacks in the plenum. It cost quite a bit extra, but his testing showed in high boost applications that it improved cylinder filling. I put 36 psi and a 250 shot fogger on it, and the plugs showed that it was definatly consistant airflow/distribution among the cylinders. Heres a pic after I plumbed the nitrous:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/tumuchNOS/deathiscoming.jpg

on the car:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/tumuchNOS/NEWINTAKE.jpg

I noticed that the throttle response was impressive despite the big turbo with a nitrous wheel. I had a stock intake before with the throttle body relocated and the difference was alot more top end with very similar low RPM response.
Just my 2 cents.

fordnut71
02-08-2011, 08:15 PM
http://rossmachineracing.com/intakepartspage.html

Agent Ezzard
02-08-2011, 08:43 PM
@tumuchNOS

I read on a Galant VR4 board about a gentleman who used velocity stacks and built his own mani. He also reported improvements but it couldn't be nailed down to if it was his new manifold or the velocity stacks or both. Since I found a set of 4 for $50 that should work well with my build I'd decided to continue on with designing a setup with velocity stacks. Otherwise, I'd just scrap the whole idea if they couldn't be source at a "cheap" price.

@fornut71

My order came in already from Ross.

beluga420
02-08-2011, 09:53 PM
how much long of plenum pipe did you order?? it looks like more that 1 ft..?
I think I'll also buy the same stack that you've bought on ebay.

Agent Ezzard
02-08-2011, 09:58 PM
18". One foot isn't long enough to cover the lower.

fordnut71
02-09-2011, 10:55 AM
sorry just seen the talk about ebay didnt see that you had the tubing already as that was a few pages back.

tumuchNOS
02-09-2011, 03:04 PM
@tumuchNOS

I read on a Galant VR4 board about a gentleman who used velocity stacks and built his own mani. He also reported improvements but it couldn't be nailed down to if it was his new manifold or the velocity stacks or both. Since I found a set of 4 for $50 that should work well with my build I'd decided to continue on with designing a setup with velocity stacks. Otherwise, I'd just scrap the whole idea if they couldn't be source at a "cheap" price.

@fornut71

My order came in already from Ross.

A friend of mine was building another colt with a stroker 4g63 and ordered the same intake with a slightly smaller turbo and no velo stacks. His seemed more lazy on the bottom and less responsive at tip in. In theroy the cars being very similar other than a displacement advantage (which will usually spool any turbo faster) given to him, my car had more bottom end and midrange. The stacks that came in my intake were machine turned/cnc deals that were beautiful. I belive JMF sold them separatley, but that was 6 years ago now. Good luck on the build.:peelout:

Agent Ezzard
02-09-2011, 06:50 PM
4" downpipe in the making.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14144054-03d

Cut the v-band ring off the Hoslet elbow. I will have to wait until the motor is in the truck to finish it along with the O2 bungs etcs. Plans are for 3" piping after the downpipe using a 4" to 3" cone reducer from airflo.

beluga420
02-20-2011, 09:44 PM
So? How is it going with the custom intake have you started building it? How are the stacks do they look fine for that job? I also ordered 4 from the same guy.

Agent Ezzard
02-20-2011, 10:03 PM
I'm on vacation up in Rome, NY. I'll be back at it on Wednesday.

Agent Ezzard
02-23-2011, 10:46 AM
I'm back home and here is how the stacks fit the stock lower. The plenum has more than enough internal volume to fit these stacks. I plan on chopping about an inch off the the lower and replace it with runner tubing so that I can clear the wiper motor. Also, I'll trim the stacks to get rid of that flang and so that it will sit nice with the tubing. This plenum is huge. I also have a SN95 TB coming from eBay.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14144051-820

beluga420
02-23-2011, 11:04 AM
sweet! the stacks looks really nice on there. and yeah the plenum is pretty huge lol maybe you could just chop off the top of the plenum where the motor wiper is and reweld it so it clears the wiper motor?

Foolee
02-23-2011, 11:28 AM
http://www.bgsoflex.com/intakeln.html

Proper runner length is critical when building a intake manifold if you want the pulses to bounce properly. Here's a calc so you know how much to chop off.

http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=hp&biw=1220&bih=800&q=runner+length+calculator&aq=1&aqi=g2g-m4&aql=t&oq=runner+length+&fp=40ff3dd5fb0bfb49
Here's a few more calculators.

Agent Ezzard
02-23-2011, 12:09 PM
I've been doing some reading up and most of the intake manifold design theory is based on N/A applications. Since the intake is pressurizd there aren't really any pulses that bounce around. They also say that plenum size should be 1.5 times the displacement for forced induction.

I'm having fun with this stuff.

rangergt
02-23-2011, 09:02 PM
Don't overthink this process. It's good to educate yourself and think before you act but some of the info you'll find may be only partial information and can be misleading. When the big companies put a manifold into production it's not their first attempt even with all their computer design and simulation and that's with 'smart' people that do it everyday. The main thing is the results are better after than before. I think your on the right track. I like what you have, it looks good.

Agent Ezzard
02-23-2011, 09:20 PM
Thanks. I'm just having fun with the build. Ima put the parts together and get the whole thing running and then see what happens.

Skyy_4life
02-24-2011, 02:34 AM
things looking nice. good job :)

yea i kinda got the same idea, slap everything together and see what i get.
not trying to calculate anything, just put it all together and see how it goes. lol.


if you happen to make more than 1 of those manifolds, lmk lol ill gladly purchase one heh

Agent Ezzard
02-24-2011, 04:56 PM
Ok so I went to Harbor Freight to buy a chop saw so i could cut the tubing. I cut four 3" pieces just to see how it would look. They will end up shorter. The stacks I will have to take some where to get the bottom flange part cut off of them. Once they're cut I can finish mocking everything up and take it to get welded. I measured the shortest clearance from the top of the lower and the bottom of the wiper motor and I have enough room to play with.

I just have to get these stacks cut and proceed from there. Until then I'll continue to smooth out the stacks and sand them down (as you can see I started on the stack in the plenum).

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14155597-d61


As for making one to sell, let's see how it performs lol. I dont want to sell garbage to anyone.


My cam should be here from Schneider next week so I'll get the head ready to rock and roll when it arrives.

Agent Ezzard
03-16-2011, 08:28 PM
Progress Update:

Cam and springs came in from Schneider. Started porting the head. Intake manifold still in progress. and I'm going to pull the engine out the the truck this weekend (hopefully).

Schulzee
03-17-2011, 03:17 PM
Pics of the porting? I haven't really taken a look at a 2.3 head much. I know what to do (and not do) to a 2.2/2.5 Turbo Dodge head.

Agent Ezzard
03-17-2011, 03:22 PM
lol I'm just using other pics that I've seen as a guide. I'll try to post what I have so far.

speedaddict
03-17-2011, 04:09 PM
Damn. Nice job. This build looks so familar, can't put my finger on it!! Love the intake. What did you clean the comp housing up with? Came out nice.

What part of south fla you live, if you don't mind me askin. I grew up in plant city, fla.

Agent Ezzard
03-17-2011, 04:27 PM
I'm down in Broward County - Coral Springs area. I used Simple Green and hot water with a plastic brush. I let it dry then taped off the compressor inlet and sprayed silver high temp paint on it. The same paint on the block and oil pan.

I'm waiting an an aluminum burr so I can finish cutting out the intake holes and blending the stock lower to the velocity stacks.

speedaddict
03-17-2011, 04:39 PM
When you talked about shootin down to key west I figured somewhere around there. Sweet.

I wire brushed my comp housing when I put my external wg on the exhaust housing. Still didn't come out as nice as yours lol.

Agent Ezzard
03-17-2011, 08:14 PM
Pics:
Clutch (see thread in transmission sub forurm)
http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14341323-eec

Schneider Cam & Dual Springs (.490 lift 274/264):
http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14332885-489

Tapped oil pan drain line:
http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14332886-cbd

I saw a few threads on the subject of oil drain so I threw that pic up also.

Hopefully I'll have some of the manifold welded up

jfive
03-17-2011, 08:19 PM
Did you have the guides machined down a for extra clearance, or are you gonna do something else. I just found out you can use longer valves and have the spring height changed to run a .490 lift cam without doing additional machine work to the head.

Agent Ezzard
03-17-2011, 08:27 PM
That's going to be done when I take it back to the machine shop. I'm trying to finish up in my first time port job.

Agent Ezzard
03-19-2011, 07:01 PM
Didn't pull the old motor today but I did get the upper welded up. This is my first ever attempt at something like this so there were a few things that I could've done different but either way it's done.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14357003-80d

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14357002-ede

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14357026-553

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14357001-ebf

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14357000-ed5

jfive
03-19-2011, 07:16 PM
What fitting did you use to put into the oil pan. Intake looks good.

rangergt
03-19-2011, 10:18 PM
Very nice, I'm really liking that intake:thumbsup:.

Agent Ezzard
03-19-2011, 10:47 PM
What fitting did you use to put into the oil pan. Intake looks good.

I used the 1/2" MIP fitting that came with the hose to tap the oil pan. On the turbo drain I used a 1/2" 90 degree elbow and rotated the housing so that the the hose clears the manifold and drains properly.

radrangerXLT
03-19-2011, 11:09 PM
That intake is gnarly!

My clutch set up looks identical to yours, I'm using a Clutchnet 6 puck sprung hub and the after market pressure plate I have is a spitting image of the one you have.

My clutch pedal is slightly stiffer than stock now and the engagement is a bit harsh but nothing you won't have a hard time getting used to. You should be able to make some power with that set up:D

tcranger
03-19-2011, 11:41 PM
just wondering here where you have you oil drain line is that below the oil line in the pan? just curious i haven't had to tap one i always have used the actual turbo blocks so never had to find out. nice looking intake btw

Skyy_4life
03-20-2011, 12:02 AM
i have the same oil drain right now. haha, even the same color gas line. lol.
but my mail came today with a new oil drain kit. :)

looks great man, loving the intake

speedaddict
03-20-2011, 12:54 AM
On my 2.5 my pan was too thin to tap. I had a fitting welded on with a 90* ABOVE the oil line.

muddpawz
03-21-2011, 12:58 PM
What are you using for your vband clamp on your 4in down pipe? I'm using the same turbo he351, and won't be able to use the factory elbow.

Agent Ezzard
03-21-2011, 01:13 PM
I cut the stock elbow and used it as a flange to weld the downpipe. The other (easier & cheaper) way would be to weld a standard 4" V-band ring to the turbine housing and start your exhaust from there. These little 4" Holset v-bands are non standard and expensive if you dont have one to start off with.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14370440-f76

speedaddict
03-21-2011, 03:53 PM
Yes, change your holset v-band to 3" or 4", ^^ just like he said its an odd size and expensive. And you can get 3 or 4 inch 90*s from any reputable exhaust shop.

Agent Ezzard
03-24-2011, 06:04 PM
Well my first ever head porting job is done. Hopefully I get a chance to pull the engine this Saturday and get the party started.

Agent Ezzard
03-31-2011, 03:51 PM
Well last saturday I pulled the motor out of the truck. First time pulling a Ranger motor. Took me just about 4 hours by myself.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14457426-d4c

Then yesterday after work I picked up a fox body 75MM throttle body and the IAC and TPS sensor bolts right up to the it so let's see what happens. I've read the people that upgraded Tb's used the 94-95 SN95 TB but the flange I have was made for the fox body. I just have to figure out the throttle cable situation which I'll worry about later.

http://divshare.com//img/display/14457428-c86

http://divshare.com//img/display/14457429-f9e

http://divshare.com//img/display/14457430-b17

jfive
03-31-2011, 05:33 PM
Looks good. I want that tb too. Hope it works good. Takes me 4 hrs to pull the motor in mine too.

Sandman
04-05-2011, 09:51 PM
nice build makes me really want to get something done to mine this is a motivation thread for me LOL

Agent Ezzard
04-05-2011, 10:26 PM
Thanks man. I'm trying to do things I learned here and also not be afraid to venture off the deep end. I'm just waiting on the GM springs and retainers and then the head goes back to the machine shop. Hopefully if I get it back by Friday I can install the long block on Saturday.

Skyy_4life
04-05-2011, 11:13 PM
looking good man, keep the pics coming. nice truck btw. any thoughts of lowering it?

Agent Ezzard
04-18-2011, 03:32 PM
Update: I dropped the head and valve train off at the machine shop on the way to work. I should have it back by tomorrow afternoon. I was asked to swap a shift with a guy at work so that I will have Friday off. If it's approved, (since all this craziness about controllers sleeping) this Friday the motor will be going in.

@skyy_4life:

Yeah I am going to lower it and maybe put some bullet wheels on it. I been browsing google images to see what rims out there look good.

beluga420
04-18-2011, 09:28 PM
That intake looks nice with that 75 mm TB, i've got the 65 mm one for my build but one thing I didnt figured out before ordering the D-shaped plenum is that the bolts doesnt clear the size of the plenum... I should have bought the 75 mm adaptor like you did.

I will see what I'll be doing when I'll be there.
Was it hard to weld it all?

Don't forget to take it on video when you get it runnin! :)

Agent Ezzard
04-18-2011, 09:42 PM
It wasn't hard for the guy that welded it lol. I just fabricated it all and took it to him. He said I did a good job on prepping the cast to be welded to the plenum and he went at it. We did let it cool on it's own so that it wouldn't crack. I wouldn't mind learning how to weld.

I figured with the throttle body that since I'm goig through all this trouble I might as well upgrade the TB. The TPS fits with some minor drilling of the screw holes and the IAC sensor bolts right up. I'm not building the truck to autocross or anything. If I run someone it's most likely going to be from a roll since Im not sure how this truck will hook up. If there is any negative affect on throttle response then so be it.

Agent Ezzard
04-28-2011, 07:01 PM
98% complete.

The longblock is fully assembled, primed and ready to go. Just have to fab up a wastegate actuator bracket since im running an internal wastegate. I already opened up the port. Once the motor goes in then I'll work out the details the regarding throttle cable and tapping the proper ports on the intake manifold. It's just that the truck is at a shop about 50 miles north of where I live and I want to get that nuances worked out with everything together.

Here are some pics over the last few weeks...

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14698888-5b1

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14698889-075

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14698892-606

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14698890-692

jfive
04-28-2011, 08:49 PM
Looking good. I really want to see how that cam works out for ya. I am just about to be at the same spot in my build. Gonna try to put my motor together in the next two weeks. Between work and school, I am putting in like 55hrs a week, and thats kicking my butt.

Agent Ezzard
04-29-2011, 08:21 PM
I wanna see how the cam works for me too. Honestly, I want to see how the whole project works for me.... I'm not really sure what to expect powerwise because I was never into the Ford 2.3 scene before putting this project together. I decided to keep the stock valves just to see what it puts down.

Jowlz
05-06-2011, 09:36 AM
Excellent build thread... I'm following closely as my truck is a close year, all the links in your thread work, and plenty of pictures... What are you going to do about tuning?

Agent Ezzard
05-06-2011, 09:49 AM
For tuning I'm gonna run with the SCT Flasher and will purchase the Advantage software at some point after the tuck is running. I am going to put the motor in the truck on Saturday and I will try to take pics of the progress.

Thanks for looking

Skyy_4life
05-06-2011, 07:48 PM
huge downpipe man. love how the upper turned out. you should run a full 4" exhaust to match that downpipe. :)

jfive
05-06-2011, 07:58 PM
going from a big size down to a small size seams common in the V8 world. Like going from a 5inch to 4. I imagine it works for the 4cyl world too. I plan on going 2.5 to 3 right off the turbo, and then keeping it 3in all the way to muffler and than a turn down.

Skyy_4life
05-06-2011, 08:04 PM
going from a big size down to a small size seams common in the V8 world. Like going from a 5inch to 4. I imagine it works for the 4cyl world too. I plan on going 2.5 to 3 right off the turbo, and then keeping it 3in all the way to muffler and than a turn down.

well mine for the last 2-3 years has been 2 1/2 off turbo and 2 1/2 full exhaust.... i want a full 3in turbo back. i have never run mufflers though so lol.

Agent Ezzard
05-06-2011, 09:49 PM
The reason the downpipe is 4" is because it matches the turbine housing. I'll post pics tomorrow of the engine install.

Agent Ezzard
05-07-2011, 05:58 PM
First off I had to replace the engine mounts and the small 15mm bolts where VERY stubborn! I had to be a nut/bolt remover to get them off because they ended up get rounded off. After that things went smooth but I cut it short because my friend wanted to head home early like he always does on Saturdays.

The manifold clears the wiper motor but I have to see how it fits when the motor sits at the right angle. There is a block of wood there now to keep it from falling back and ruining the mounts.

The downpipe fits perfectly. I have to remove the pilot bearing and install the clutch and then bolt the tranny back on.

Next week I should be able to complete the tranny and exhaust. Then its FMIC and wiring.


http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14778713-218

http://divshare.com//img/display/14778714-721

http://divshare.com//img/display/14778715-edb

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14778748-643

http://divshare.com//img/display/14778717-059

http://divshare.com//img/display/14778740-f23

http://divshare.com//img/display/14778739-a7b

http://divshare.com//img/display/14778751-8d0

fordnut71
05-07-2011, 08:13 PM
very clean build.
how you managed to get that intake to fit under the wiper motor?

Agent Ezzard
05-07-2011, 09:27 PM
When the truck still had the original motor in it, I measured from the top of the lower intake manifold to bottom of the wiper motor at the shortest distance. IIRC it was something like 6.5" or so. The plenum extrusion sits 1/2" above the stock lower so that it could be welded. That made it somewhere around 6" so that's how it barely fits. It would have been easier if I had did with the truck to use as it was designed but I'm still pleased with how it came out.

Agent Ezzard
05-15-2011, 09:04 PM
Well yesterday I couldn't get too much done due to having limited time at the shop. I did manage to get the clutch and tranny in place. I forgot the digi-cam this time so all I got for you guys are iphone pics.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14845875-35b

Then I started on the downpipe fab. As we were closing up the shop my buddy was pulling a car in and ran over my downpipe and it got squashed a lil bit but I'll hammer it back as much as I can this weekend.

http://divshare.com//img/display/14845878-0b2

http://divshare.com//img/display/14845876-340

As we were closing up the shop my buddy was pulling a car in and ran over my downpipe and it got squashed a lil bit but I'll hammer it back as much as I can this weekend. I have a 4" flex section and then it'll come down to 3" from there on back. The downpipe misses the starter and bellhousing but it's a tight fit.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14845979-7c0

Planned exhaust set up. I just laid them on the ground. The pipes will be moved around so that the bend goes over the axle. If anyone is curious it's the Dynomaxx 3" straight through muffler and the Summit Racing 3" generic Ranger kit.

http://divshare.com//img/display/14845880-c5d

And last is the modified alternator bracket. Since the coils will be mounted on the firewall I just cut it. The two bottom bolts are plenty enough to hold the alternator in place.

http://divshare.com//img/display/14845879-fdb


Upcoming Saturday I have the power steering pump bracket modification, throttle cable relocation and finish the exhaust on the list of things to do. Maybe even FMIC mounting depending on the flow of things.

Thanks for looking.

AirBender
05-15-2011, 09:34 PM
lookin good! its comin along nicely.......

dangeranger93
05-15-2011, 09:36 PM
http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14845875-35b



holy crap! the quick disconnect disconnected! :D

Skyy_4life
05-16-2011, 10:56 AM
holy crap! the quick disconnect disconnected! :D

i have had maybe 1 of mine in all my rangers actually work. i ended up havcing to cut the one out of my current truck. those things are a son-of-a-bish

Agent Ezzard
05-16-2011, 11:02 AM
I wasnt aware that these things are a hassle. It worked everytime. On side note I'm currently ordering silicone couplers for the intercooler setup.

AirBender
05-16-2011, 11:05 AM
i have had maybe 1 of mine in all my rangers actually work. i ended up havcing to cut the one out of my current truck. those things are a son-of-a-bish


the new replacement slave cylinders dont use the plastic sleeve any more... they have a spring clip, once you pull the clip loose the fitting just pops out...

Agent Ezzard
05-16-2011, 11:08 AM
I see. The white plastic sleeve is prety chewed up on mine from previous disconnects. It's reconnected now so hopefully there will be no need to disconnected it for a while.

I learn something new everyday about this lil truck.

Agent Ezzard
05-21-2011, 09:11 PM
All I got done today was mounting the FMIC, cutting the power steering pump bracket, replace the power steering return hose, and worked out my throttle cable issue. I still have to fab up some kind of bracket for the throttle cable though.

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14900402-437

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14925382-3b0

Next Saturday is exhaust and IC piping.

AirBender
05-22-2011, 02:38 AM
lookin good!!!

beluga420
05-22-2011, 04:09 AM
Sweeeet! It all looks good in there!

muddpawz
05-23-2011, 02:26 PM
Who did you get the 4" exhaust from? Decently priced or they just had it available? Referring to 90*-45*?- and the flex pipe. I'm shopping for mine now so I wanted to check your source as well. I have the factory elbow from the turbo but I never thought of welding it to standard exhaust tubing, I figured that cast wouldn't bond....guess we know I'm not a welder...what prep work was required for it? You'll be burning tires in no time now!!!

Agent Ezzard
05-23-2011, 04:04 PM
I got it from a local source called 21st Century Exhaust. The shop's Owner has a wholesale account with them so I just called and picked up.

The 4" flex was $20. The 4" 45* bend I bought on ebay before he told me to use his account. The 90* that was used I'm not sure because I had that welded by a performance shop months ago. They had that in stock so I told them what I wanted and they hooked it up.


I have to buy a new radiator because some crackheads took it out of the bed at some point during the build process. So it's radiator & hoses, FMIC piping, exhaust, serpentine belt, and coil relocation and I'm done. I could be done by SATURDAY!

muddpawz
05-25-2011, 08:13 PM
Curious about your completed down pipe!!!! Where did you, or did you use flex pipe? 4"or 3"? I just bought my fittings and will have them welded ASAP!

Agent Ezzard
05-25-2011, 08:52 PM
The 4" flex is out of the build and is getting replaced by a 3" flex. In post #101 you see the pic that shows the downpipe from underneath, that's where I plan to reduce it to 3" then add the flex. After the flex will be a flange to bolt the rest of the exhaust up.

muddpawz
05-26-2011, 07:15 PM
Ahhh got it now. The 45* next to the frame is what was throwing me oof, as it was not pointed back. If you are placing the flex pipe there, it will work well though. Keep up the progress man looking good!!

Agent Ezzard
05-26-2011, 07:24 PM
WILCO. Saturday morning I go at it again. I can't wait.

beluga420
05-26-2011, 08:10 PM
Hehe nice can't wait untill you sign shows The Build Thread 100% Complete! :rockwoot:

Keep up the good work!

Agent Ezzard
05-28-2011, 04:12 PM
Yesterday my friend informed me that he was going to be closed today. I had the truck towed to a relative's house yesterday so that I could still plug away at it.

Now to the progress. I fitted the radiator and tweaked the intercooler location. Also, I cut and fitted the FMIC piping, fitted the coils against the firewall, and installed the serpentine belt and radiator hoses. Im going to source a e-fan to install in a few days. The only thing that keeps getting delayed is the welding. I have to have the exhaust welded, a bracket for the throttle cable, and the flange for the BOV. Once that is done I could finish wiring it up and crank it over. I'll post a video of the walk around and later on some pics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMIZPXZRzZU



http://www.divshare.com/img/display/14957581-f2a

muddpawz
05-28-2011, 05:10 PM
Sweetness!!!

splatranger95
05-29-2011, 10:03 AM
Man I need to clean up my underhood.... I keep seeing all these guys with sweet underhoods and Mine just looks like poop comparably. New intake is on the list for that reason.

Agent Ezzard
05-29-2011, 10:09 AM
You still want the A/C heater box? I didn't destroy mine lol. I got the compressor as well.

splatranger95
05-31-2011, 10:44 AM
I ended up getting one from a guy just north of me. Thanks though. I cant wait to put it in. My header is the problem. My compressor housing hits cylinder 1 tube. I need to get it fixed but I cant get ahold of AJ, and my buddy cant do it for a long time.

muddpawz
05-31-2011, 11:31 AM
You need the Holset accommodator manifold! It's just a small wedge where the original flange was and the flange moved outward at an angle. Works very well, and its a simple fix...if you can weld!!

Agent Ezzard
06-01-2011, 09:42 AM
In the process of labeling the harness connectors so that I can run the wiring as neat as possilbe.

STAY TUNED!

beluga420
06-01-2011, 06:41 PM
Of course we stay tuned ;)

Agent Ezzard
06-02-2011, 03:15 PM
The truck has been cranked but does not start. I'm going to troubleshoot after I pick the dog up from the vet. It has fuel and I'm going to check for spark before I start digging into timing belt etc.

Seeing as how I have 60lb injectors and a 90mm MASS, would the truck still run without a base tune?

splatranger95
06-02-2011, 03:24 PM
You need the Holset accommodator manifold! It's just a small wedge where the original flange was and the flange moved outward at an angle. Works very well, and its a simple fix...if you can weld!!

Ya.... I know. I keep calling AJ, but Im probably just bugging him. He wont get back to me. I thought he posted up about doing machine work because he wanted to do some.... guess not.

muddpawz
06-02-2011, 10:25 PM
ouch!! he's on here quite a bit, and I think he's been watchin your thread too, I'm sure he'll chime in soon enough!!

jfive
06-03-2011, 12:07 AM
When he's absent like right now, its usally a sign of over work, and lack of motivation. Might be flooding or in a tornado too. I keep wondering if we lost any members due to this weather. We have a ton of flooding going on in my state and the missouri river starts here so anyone south of us has lots of water coming.

Agent Ezzard
06-03-2011, 08:32 AM
I spoke with Jess and he said it might be too rich to start. He was gonna shoot me over a tune to get the truck to idle so I'm just waiting on that and I'll go from there.

Agent Ezzard
06-04-2011, 12:52 AM
It runs (barely) :-)

Skyy_4life
06-04-2011, 02:08 AM
did the base tune get it to run or did u get it to start without the tune?

Agent Ezzard
06-04-2011, 04:14 PM
I got the throttle cable bracket together and wastegate actuator bracket on. Still need to get a radiator fan, finish the throttle cable linkage, and fix a water leak at the water outlet pipe O-ring. Oh, and put ATF in the transmission. Other than that she purrs.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOnHNk0Dhmc

tcranger
06-04-2011, 06:00 PM
god dang! that sounds good! nice job

Agent Ezzard
06-18-2011, 02:01 PM
Ok here the update. The truck is running pretty decent on 12psi with the 2000 ECU. I got the exhaust done but the idiots didn't weld the other end of the reducer to the downpipe since it was slipped on already. Possibly overlooked on their behalf. I have a small water leak that I believe is coming from the water pump o-ring. Coolant temp sensor doesn't appear to be working and lastly, I have to wire the e-fan. Video to come soon.

Oh yeah, if anyone has rear bumper brackets for a 96 hit me up!

DangerRanger01
06-29-2011, 11:25 PM
Can you post more engine bay pics? Lewks sick man. Totally want to copy you on that intake. looks so good.

Skyy_4life
06-30-2011, 12:10 PM
on the 2000 ECU, did jess send u a base tune just to get everything running?

Agent Ezzard
06-30-2011, 12:25 PM
Yeah everything WAS running great until yesterday after work I changed the spring in my BOV and went to a spin and when I hit 2nd gear and the engine shut off. Upon initial inspection (in the rain), appears to be no spark from either coil. It is sitting in a parking spot and when I get it back home I'll check the crank sensor, coil voltage, and wiring harness.

10 psi felt nice!


I'll post some mote engine bay pics when I get a chance.

Agent Ezzard
06-30-2011, 06:19 PM
Can you post more engine bay pics? Lewks sick man. Totally want to copy you on that intake. looks so good.

Here are a few older ones before I installed the e-fan:

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/15208984-3df

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/15208992-7d6

http://www.divshare.com/img/display/15209001-c4d

Agent Ezzard
07-14-2011, 06:34 PM
UPDATE:

The motor is pretty much broken in. I found a deal for a set of 17x9 Cobra R wheels with tires for $275. Once I get that all squared away I'll be off to the dyno for some pulls.

fordnut71
07-14-2011, 09:05 PM
what was the problem with the motor shutting off?

muddpawz
07-14-2011, 11:21 PM
Yeah never got the update on the cutting off issue!! Dyno Dyno Dyno!!!!!

beluga420
07-15-2011, 01:29 AM
Hurry up on the dyno! Wanna see some numbers. And crank up the boost while your at it:D

beluga420
07-17-2011, 08:51 AM
How did you finally did your throttle cable? On mine I'm too short of about 2 inches. And how was the clearance in between the intake and where the cable enters into firewall? Mine is squeezed a lil but doesnt lock the line

Agent Ezzard
07-18-2011, 10:59 AM
The cutting out issue still persists although driving habits coming off throttle help mitigate it. It probably can get work our with me adjusting my idle stop screw/TPS/tune/IAC. Other than that the truck is running good. Still have yet to crank up the boost though. I disconnected the wastegate and just use my foot to control boost.

For the throttle cable I made still have a temp bracket but lengthwise the end of the cable is about 2" longer than where it needs to be connected at the throttle body. That's with my plenum being 14 inches + the flange.

Check out post #139 and look at the pics and you could see the cable.


As for firewall clearance and the grommet where the cable is fed through, I used a brass hammer and persuaded the firewall a bit. It works fine but its a very tight fit.

Agent Ezzard
07-23-2011, 01:44 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NEQQOD8ky8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

jareeb
07-23-2011, 09:57 PM
how do you hook up the 2000 ecu?

Agent Ezzard
07-23-2011, 10:00 PM
They are the same harness so it's a simple plug, tune, and play.

jareeb
07-24-2011, 12:50 AM
They are the same harness so it's a simple plug, tune, and play.

really you dont need to repin or anything? what is the code for that ecm like the 4 letter/number one
edit: i got it its gaj1 right

beluga420
07-24-2011, 04:08 AM
Flh2 jAreEd$

jfive
09-11-2011, 10:26 PM
So did you end up using an external wastegate, or the internal one. Looks like its not hooked up, but you don't mention an external anywhere.

Agent Ezzard
09-11-2011, 11:14 PM
I'm running an internal setup using an actuator I bought on eBay a while back. I chopped the external port off the manifold and I also ported the wastegate opening and the discharge port so that I wouldn't get any creep. I used a piece of aluminum and tabbed up some kinda bracket that seems to be holding up fairly well.

You can see the actuator in the background: http://www.divshare.com/img/display/15528777-654