View Full Version : solid head
'97-2.3L-ranger
07-17-2008, 06:16 PM
I looked threw all the threads for head building. what is everbody opinion on building the head. i'd like to build the head to handel the hp. but i dont want to spend a ton of money on big vaves macine work and the difficult tune process. whitch direction should i go in?
Jesshwarren
07-17-2008, 06:31 PM
Check this out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv1-omYCb9c
bruiser
07-17-2008, 07:13 PM
wow thats a beast
Im confused at what you want. Without big valves and the machine work, you won't 'build' a head that is going to really allow you to make any HP/TQ easily. (I'd consider porting and polishing part of "machine work")
With a worked head (big valves, cam, p&p) it allows you to make big numbers at lower boost levels that the guys using stock heads are making at 25+PSI.
'97-2.3L-ranger
07-17-2008, 08:55 PM
well i'm building the motor right now. i looked at mabe just new springs. mabe some stainless valves. i dont want to worry about the head. once its put back together i'll start building a big valve-big cam-ported-head. i'll sink some money into that head.
nagelandy55
07-18-2008, 07:55 AM
If your spending money on the stainless valves i would just get big ones and get the machine work done. 500 bucks should get you a big valve head, thats if you do the P&P yourself.
well i'm building the motor right now. i looked at mabe just new springs. mabe some stainless valves. i dont want to worry about the head. once its put back together i'll start building a big valve-big cam-ported-head. i'll sink some money into that head.
Well, stainless stock sized valves aren't going to offer any performance. So that's money wasted.
Do you need new springs? Or can you hold off until you have a built head? Again, that could be money wasted that could be used for a built head if you don't need new springs.
Jesshwarren
07-19-2008, 09:37 AM
Springs are for RPM's if you don't plan to spin 7000RPM's don't waist your $$ on springs. If you decide to go with springs you must go with rods also. You need rods and springs to run 7000RPM's.
On the 95 and newer head the valves won't start to float till over 7000RPM's any way.
muddpawz
09-06-2008, 12:59 AM
is a 97 head worth tweaking or would i be better off with an older head and getting it p&p'd/valves/ etc...? i like the dual plug heads but not 100% on the performance compared to the older style, HELP!!
Jesshwarren
09-06-2008, 11:01 AM
is a 97 head worth tweaking or would i be better off with an older head and getting it p&p'd/valves/ etc...? i like the dual plug heads but not 100% on the performance compared to the older style, HELP!!
The 95and up DP head are the best of all the stock 2.3L heads. Keep your 97 head it will out flow the stock turbo head.
AJ_Fritz
09-07-2008, 01:54 PM
and his race weight is?
dont get me wrong i love drag racing. i love doing it i love watching it. but timeslips are misleading.
i know i can run 7 seconds in a quarter mile with a stock 2.3 turbo motor, as long as i can bolt it into a drag bike.
if marty is running 12.56 with a stock motor, turbo,and the car hasnt went through an extensive weight reduction. then my hat goes off to him.
xr4man
09-07-2008, 01:58 PM
you can do a lot of weight reduction, but a t-bird is still a pig no matter how you slice it.
AJ_Fritz
09-07-2008, 02:19 PM
yes it is but it's one of the most aero pigs ive ever seen lol. that is one flying pig ;)
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