Megasquirt BS

[jfive]

So a weller 25w iron from radioshack is good starting point. Also what do you do for wire. I think I want the squirt to be my next purchase. I'd like to just get it in the truck and maybe tune it N/A to start and then have that part done before the swap begins. Anyone else thought of that.

[4bangeranger]

i like that idea i was thinking about running n/a as well to start. i would also look into getting an ESD wristband as well as a ESD bag or foam to build it on. from what i have read so far its super sensitive to an ESD shock. and it being winter there is more of a risk do to extra cloathing and the dryness elavates this risk more. i read about alot of people frying there board this way. thought i should share.

[jfive]

So its kinda like a computer then. So what ever you do it on, you want it to be insulated and,grounded? Definately don't want to fry anything. I found a 25w soldering iron at radioshack. That a good start. I guess asking for some help from computer builders can come in handy. I'll get on the research part of this asap. Gonna get my taxes done next week, and if it looks like I get something, I will be ordering stuff.

[jfive]

I read an article that made a good point. When tunning for N/A, you can have it at 15:1 afr at cruise, hwy driving, for best gas mileage. I would like to have a good base line for my mpg before and after. I imagine from how my truck runs right now, I will pick up a mpg or two. Only getting 23 to 24 no matter what. Got 21.6 one time, but I do shift at high rpms. If anyone has theres done, I would like to see some finished units, with the cover off. I guess I was confused about wires, but now I am set straight so forget about my earlier mentions. There is a book that the three electronic junkies in my welding class all seamed to be reading, and here it is. I think I am going to try borrowing it for reading. http://www.amazon.com/MAKE-Electronics-Learning-Through-Discovery/dp/0596153740

[oldcarfart]

I read an article that made a good point. When tunning for N/A, you can have it at 15:1 afr at cruise, hwy driving, for best gas mileage. I would like to have a good base line for my mpg before and after. I imagine from how my truck runs right now, I will pick up a mpg or two. Only getting 23 to 24 no matter what. Got 21.6 one time, but I do shift at high rpms. If anyone has theres done, I would like to see some finished units, with the cover off. I guess I was confused about wires, but now I am set straight so forget about my earlier mentions. There is a book that the three electronic junkies in my welding class all seamed to be reading, and here it is. I think I am going to try borrowing it for reading. http://www.amazon.com/MAKE-Electronics-Learning-Through-Discovery/dp/0596153740

I thought 14:1 was the afr to target?

[fordnut71]

its 14.7 is na 15/1 is just a slight leaner

[jfive]

Well its a lean condition, but thats what would give you the best fuel mileage. It wouldn't be under load. Got the info from a Car Craft article, so I take it to be credible. I had thought about this before reading though. So it was nice to have it confirmed. I think it has a lot to do with how aftermarket diesel chips create a better mileage situation at cruise, but yet make more horsepower while under load.

[Cutlass327]

That's the beauty of programming you ECU - You can set the parameters the way you want them. As long as you are not under load, you can lean it out some. This is usually what you are like in cruise conditions - low load, higher vacuum, etc. Once you get out of those parameters, you can set it for 14.7 or whatever you need. Plus if you have the ECU control timing, you can have higher timing for better cruise mileage.

[Pimp_Daddy_Patty]

I've managed to run 17:1 AFR at light load on a 9.6:1 comp. 2.0L that was running 8psi. Although in a small coupe, it managed 39-40mpg on the highway.

[fordnut71]

I've managed to run 17:1 AFR at light load on a 9.6:1 comp. 2.0L that was running 8psi. Although in a small coupe, it managed 39-40mpg on the highway.

thats lean. surprised you didnt burn the plugs up.

[AJ_Fritz]

yeah I'm not to sure how that would go over on a cast iron head... there is lean and then there is anorexic.

[Pimp_Daddy_Patty]

Yeah, Aluminum head...... It did burn the valve seals up after 50,000km but the motor already had 200,000+km.

Not sure what the Iron head would handle LOL

[jfive]

Been asking some questions to some guys that have built megasquirts and I was given a good piece of advice, i thought I would share for those like me looking to build a squirt but haven't soldered stuff like this. That is to buy a soldering learning kit. I am going to get a DIY AM radio kit. They are 14 to 23 dollars for the most part, and have quite a few soldering connections that you will have to do, and if you do it right, you have a working AM radio when your done. I like talk radio, and could use one for the shop, so sounds like a win/win situation for me. I was actually recommended to look into a diy voltmeter, but I have a real good digital one allready, so thats why I am opt for a radio.

[jfive]

So I got a MS I v2.2 and I am looking at updating the daughterboard to make it MS II. Can I run Low impendance Injectors with this, or do I have to Get another Squirt. No biggie if I do, as I will use this one on the other ranger if I do.

[fordnut71]

hey you better watch out for the motherboard if you try to update the daughterboard. she might throw a roll pin at ya:D

[jfive]

it looks pretty easy according to the megamanual. Just a few pins. Gonna pick up a stim and start my soldering on it first. It was the most recommended thing to start with, and its practical. Probubly gonna pick up a A.M. Radio too, so I have plenty of practice before messing something up.

[Pimp_Daddy_Patty]

MS2 board doesn't do very well with Low Impedance Injectors. There is PWM injection but it seems to throw a lot of electrical noise into the system and cause misfires and RPM spikes.

You can get around that with resistors (Honda or DSM) or you can add the peak and hold board (best solution anyways)

My "race" Megasquirt with:
-mapdaddy 4 bar MAP
-V3.0 PCB
-MS2 board
-Peak n Hold board

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u302/pimp_daddy_patty/Megasquirt%20stuff/IMG00089-20110328-1328.jpg

[FastR]

MS2 board doesn't do very well with Low Impedance Injectors. There is PWM injection but it seems to throw a lot of electrical noise into the system and cause misfires and RPM spikes.

You can get around that with resistors (Honda or DSM) or you can add the peak and hold board (best solution anyways)

My "race" Megasquirt with:
-mapdaddy 4 bar MAP
-V3.0 PCB
-MS2 board
-Peak n Hold board

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u302/pimp_daddy_patty/Megasquirt%20stuff/IMG00089-20110328-1328.jpg

Please explain this?

[CopyKat]

Very easy to build. Print out a copy of the instruction manual, have it handy.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p198/Villanmotorsports/VMS%20Ranger/MSbuild044.jpg

Here is a link.
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mass.htm

What's the reason for wanting to upgrade to the MS2?

[AirBender]

hes refering to pimps comments in his last post... he like him to elaborate more on his opinion....

[Pimp_Daddy_Patty]

Low impedance injectors draw a lot of current in which case the ECU (or megasquirt) has to pulse the injection signal several times during one single injection event. The reason for this is that low impedance injectors have a faster opening time which leaves the injector more time to flow fuel and therefore flow more fuel during one single injection event. It is called PWM (pulse width modulation) and it was originally intended to be done using the software and megasquirt chip.

This unfortunately puts a lot of noise into the system which the MS2 chip has a hard time dealing with. The other option is to not use PWM injection and add more resistance to the injector circuit to limit current and there make it work like a high impedance injector. This slows down injector opening time though, it is not a big deal unless your injector duty cycle is getting really high.

The third option is the green board attached to my megasquirt. The peak n hold board does PWM injection using hardware that is completely isolated from the MS2 chip and lets you keep the original Low-Z characteristics.

I'm assuming that's what you were asking to explain?

[FastR]

That will suffice. I wanted you to explian and to show that it was a problem and not deffective product. Althogh if you check the latest Assembly Instructions you will find that that problem has been delt with and should nolonger be an issue anymore.

[Pimp_Daddy_Patty]

Quite possible, It's been a while since I've dealt with the problem as I switched to the Peak n Hold board and never had to deal with the issue again.

[jfive]

Looking at possibly just getting the P.I.M.P ecu from stinger. Price is good, and only 200.00 more than trying to build it yourself, and it comes with tuner studio licease. The three month plus wait is all thats got me worried, but at my pace, I will need that long to have the ranger ready. Anyone else looking at this as an option?

[Pimp_Daddy_Patty]

Looks like a pretty decent setup. Price is great for a PnP setup for sure.

I've got something similar for my Turbo Neon. Works great.

[88turbodad]

Low imp injectors are not a issue with MS2 if you follow the step 16 http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3trouble.htm
The 2.2 board does not have peak hold injector drivers so you will have to run a resister pack to run low imp injectors or http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html