pcv question

[pongorulz]

i was looking at the engine today and i noticed that theres a slight problem.

i know the pcv sits in the thing on the side of the engine, but since im using the tc intake, theres no room for a hose to fit in between the intake. and if i use the str8 pcv, im afraid of the hose kinking

so what i think i need is a pcv with a 90* on it so that i can run a hose around the intake. but i remember correctly, i read somewhere that i should use the tc pcv since its made for a turbo application, but the motorcraft pcv is str8 (unless i use this pcv 90* thing i saw on rockauto, but then the pcv would be more inline than where it should be, if this ok??) but i did find some aftermarket ones that have a 90 built in, what should i do

[pongorulz]

anyone.....

[salating]

dont use the pvc system, it sucks

i capped it off where it goes into the intake and ran a hose from the crankcase breather underneath the truck

[Jesshwarren]

It's up to you but I would delete the PCV valve. Run it to a catch can. If you keep it make sure you have a good check valve.

[pongorulz]

ok now im lost, aj had me get a check valve, now you guys are telling me no pcv or check valve. im so lost

[pongorulz]

is this right??
ok correct my errors:

valve cover and crankcase breather (thats the thing stickin on the side of the block): go to a catch can how does the breather go to a catch can when theres only one port on it for a hose that connects to the pcv??

fuel pressure, bov, and vac/boost: go to pcv (again, im a lil lost on the pcv part)

none of the above mentioned get a check valve.

then.... the rest of these get a check valve, (do they each get a valve, or do i just get one for everything?)

i install the valve to the multi port vac location, (do i take the multi port out and put this in or run a hose off the multi port it the valve?)

vac brake booster, cruise control (which i dont have, so i dont worry about this right??) and ac and heater functions: go to the check valve.

now i also have a port under the intake manifold, as well as a multi port. do i just cap off the one under the intake manifold??

sorry to be beating a dead horse with this, but i just want this to work this time

if any of this wrong, please correct it

[salating]

The check valve is in the tube from the crankcase breather(the mini tank on the drivers side of block) to the intake. The PCV valve is alse in that same hose.

What I did was cap that hose off on the intake side and pull the PCV valve out and take the hose and connect it to a catch can. So now the hose goes from the crankcase breather into the catch can. No more PCV system.

[pongorulz]

plese tell me this is right, i hate this vac thing so much

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b210/pongorulz/vac.jpg

or please make whatever changes are necessary. i work better with pictures than words or descriptions

[salating]

http://www.rangercustom.com/pics/vac.jpg

Everything else looks good. BOV, Boost Gauge, Brake Booster, Climate Control, Cruise Control and Fuel Pressure Regulator all need vacuum.

[pongorulz]

right, bov, boost gauge and reg go to the pcv pot on the bottom of the intake manifold, and the cc, climate and brake boost go to a check valve on the top of the intake

what about the fuel canister located in the front of the truck. theres a vac hose on i, but where would i hook it up to?? the check valve or the pcv port??

and what size hose do you use to run form the crank breather to the catch can, i know theres a gromet in there, but what kind of hose did you use for it

[AJ_Fritz]

plese tell me this is right, i hate this vac thing so much

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b210/pongorulz/vac.jpg

or please make whatever changes are necessary. i work better with pictures than words or descriptions


this pic is right. disregard salatings edit. you need the check valve or the cruise control will not work. you also need the check valve or you run the risk of blowing apart your climate control actuators. the brake booster needs a check valve to or it will bleed pressure into the system and you will have to wait a second for vaccuum assist. now in a panic stop which would you rather have brakes or prayers? personally i dont pray. i thought i went over all this. can you please tell me where i said hook up the PCV valve.

look i am not trying to be funny here i understand where your coming from. you want to do everything right this time around. your unsure, but your also over analizing everything. this **** is common sense stuff. i am telling you what to do because i have broken stuff in the past.

here is the list one last time. with explanations because this will be the last time i tell it.

THROW AWAY PCV VALVE!!!!!!! do you like pre-ignition? me niether. dont know the difference between spark knock and detonation(pre-ignition). research it.

vaccuum brake booster. check valve it. the POS stock check valve on it will only hold back 15-20 psi. after that your taking your life into your own hands in a panic stop.

cruise control. check valve it. you where using a system that never sees positive pressure(vaccuum only). now when you hit a grade and the boost comes up a little the throttle will slowly decrease and you will lose speed. you also need a vaccuum generator(it makes vaccuum out of boost) came stock on the 87-88 thunder bird turbo in a port in the intercooler. dont know how this works? look is up, i am not a frigging auto encyclopedia.

climate controls. check valve it. unless you like squelling actuators then dont.

all other's need to see both boost and vaccuum or aleast boost... and if they are check valved then they wont see but one will they?

boost/vaccuum gauge. yeah pretty obvious there captian.

fuel pressure regulator. hum another no brainer. needs to see vaccuum and boost because it adjusts fuel pressure through out the entire range of boost and vaccuum.

Auto transmission modulator. humm yet another no brainer. dont have an auto transmission. good, i dont care, this is for the next guy that does.

wastegate actuator. hummm yet another no brainer. doesnt need vaccuum but does need to see boost. i ussually hook up to a port in the compressor housing.

BOV. needs to see boost and vaccuum.

now before some one comes on here and says "boy AJ is a dick". here is my answer to that.:iagree: :badidea: :banned: :biggrin: :conf45: :icon_bs: :didimiss: :peelout: :patriot:

[salating]

yea dont go off my picture, its incorrect well the part where i said no check valve is

listen to adam instead

[AJ_Fritz]

PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) systems! they suck literaly. if you dont need it for emissions throw it away. seriously throw it away. it wont help gas milage, it wont help with oil changes, and it wont make your dick bigger. blow by is a serious issue. you dont think you have any?! bull****! you have it you just dont know it. as boost pressures increase so does your blow by. i have yet to see a turbo car pushing 20 psi and not have a little. all it takes is a little. turbo seals are not positive. you put a half a psi in the crankcase your going to be spitting oil out the turbo shaft. another half and your dipstick is going to be a sprinkler.
can you get it to work with a turbocharger? yes....is it worth the hassel? no. that being said i'll tell you how to make it work. you need a check valve. not some plastic piece of crap you can buy at the auto parts store. a piston type check valve made of brass with a stainless steel piston. to be used in a vaccuum the outlet and the inlet are reversed. so if you need something threaded make sure you take notice. put it inbetween the Vaccuum source and the PCV Valve. this basically turns the PCV valve into a oriface. now there has to be one other vent in the system on the valve cover that is for fresh air. is must be filtered. now this system only works when there is vaccuum in the manifold. all other times it is ventilated either to atmosphere (best) or into the incoming air charge ahead of the compressor inlet(bad). why bad you ask..... oil has an octane rating of about 20 and a btu content of about a 150% of gasoline. so its really hot and when in a mist form is extremely volatile. yeah you guessed it detonation! pcv should be vented to atmosphere.
if you do alot of stop and go driving where the engine hardly gets to operating temps you should run a PCV. why? well glad you asked. combustion creates water vapor. it condensates on anything cooler then it. at sea level thats 212 degrees F. water in oil looks milky. to keep it in a vapor form all surfaces must be hotter then 212 degeees. oil heats up slower then water.



from another post i made.

[pongorulz]

one last thing (for a while hopefully).

whats this vac generator??

and i have a the gillis valve, now goin by the instructions on it, it says to hook the gillis to the port on the compressor then to the gillis, and then come off the other leg and hook it to the wg, so if im right, this means that the wg only sees boost right??

and lastly, i was looking over on the drivers side today, and i see theres a sensor tht goes to the charcoal canister that has a vac line attached to it, which port would i hook this to.

i oulled it off when i took the other engine out and forgot to mark it

[stedman]

It's your "Purg" sensor, just replaced mine, it's still showing up on the scan as being a problem

[AJ_Fritz]

one last thing (for a while hopefully).

whats this vac generator??

and i have a the gillis valve, now goin by the instructions on it, it says to hook the gillis to the port on the compressor then to the gillis, and then come off the other leg and hook it to the wg, so if im right, this means that the wg only sees boost right??

and lastly, i was looking over on the drivers side today, and i see theres a sensor tht goes to the charcoal canister that has a vac line attached to it, which port would i hook this to.

i oulled it off when i took the other engine out and forgot to mark it

the vaccuum generator makes vaccuum from pressure. it it hooked up somewhere in the intake tract that has boost but no vaccuum. they only make about 5inches of vaccuum and only work under 10 psi, but this enough for the speed control to work. it looks like a T fiting. one side will be treaded the other 2 will be nippled. the straight through nipple will be the exhaust which goes back to the compressor inlet side inbetween the turbo and the air meter. the other side will have vaccuum anytime there is boost. the treaded end goes to a pressure source.

a gillis valve is really a ball check valve that has an adjustable crack pressure. you adjust the crack pressure by turning the threaded bolt tighter and adjusting the the spring preload.

ive never had much faith in gillis valves. they are a pain to set up and if your using a external wastegate there are way better options available. like a simple small air pressure regulator. fairly cheap and very easy to set up.

[stedman]

I should've explaned better, the sensor that's next to your charcoal casister is your " Evaporative canister purge sensor". Sorry, got too many irons in the fire as lately..........Lee

[pongorulz]

k, and what vac source does it connect to, the checked or unchecked side

[AJ_Fritz]

shouldnt really matter.