View Full Version : Volvo Head Swap
http://www.merkurtech.com/merkurtech/techarticles/item045.php
http://www.reocities.com/_nitro_/volvoswap/volvoswap.html
Yes, I dump all my garbage here so I know where to find it later and hopefully help others in the process...
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/f327/lima-head-swap-thread-version-01-a-216532.html
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/2300-16V/
More Volvo crap... ENJOY!
musturbo
05-16-2011, 03:26 PM
wow thanks
No problem. I just found a Volvo head and I am documenting my build in my project log. I will cut out all the garbage and transfer the head conversion portion to this thread. I may also again cut out all the garbage and transfer the whole engine build to the "Lima Engine Builds" section too! It would be good to see all the brackets and stuff.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ford23t-dp/
About adding the block on the back:
"I use 6061-t6. 1/8" 5356 filler rod and a 1/8" or 3/16" tungsten, miller syncrowave 350 AMP TIG with 75/25 helium/AR mix
bevel the block, pre heat the head (200*F) and clamp the head with some pre-camber 'cause it moves and cool slowy :)"
When he is talking about camber, he wants the added block to slightly sag. When it is milled you will get the beautiful flat surface everyone is looking for!
-Pyro Pete (I am fairly certain he does this for a living. He is the one who sells the converted heads on ebay.) <all in all, they suprisingly arn't that bad of a price as I start taking on this project. If you buy direct from him I am would guess it be a litle cheaper so he can avoid the Ebay fees. That is only speculation though. You can talk to him on the 2300 16v Yahoo group. Really nice guy.
Well guys, I am going to start laying out my notes here with pictures and more links. I want everything in one place and in chronological order. Hope no one minds...
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo2016v20genomskarning.jpg
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=sv&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.topplocksverkstan.se%2Fvolvo16v %2520Turbotopp.html
http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/volvo16vrc.html
Ok. After a lot of research I am going to try and make this conversion crystal clear so even I can follow it.
Here we go.
This is the altimate goal:
Ford 2.3 block happily fornicating a Volvo 2.3 DOHC head. Note that this is a two piece head.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadandCamTowersonBlock2.jpg
Ford Block:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/FordBlockTop.jpg
Gasket Line up:
Note here that the important things line up. Like the head bolts and the combustion chambers... (I may have a gasket flipped but who cares)
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/GasketLineUp.jpg
Here is the front of just the head:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadFront.jpg
Driver's side of the head (Intake):
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadIntakeDriver.jpg
Back of the head:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadRear.jpg
Pass. exhaust side of the head:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadExhaustpassside.jpg
Top of the head:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadTop.jpg
Bottom of The head:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/HeadBottom.jpg
Front of cam tower:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/CamTowerFront.jpg
Driver's side of cam tower:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/CamTowerDriver.jpg
Back of cam tower:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/CamTowerRear.jpg
Pass. side of cam tower:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/CamTowerPass.jpg
Cam tower top:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/CamTowerTop12.jpg
Cam tower Bottom:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Forlvo%20Layout/CamTowerBottom22.jpg
Now, if I have done this right, this should complete a nice 360* view of the head. I tried to take the pictures in such a fashion that everything faced the same way. I will be referencing these pictures in the coming posts so you can see exactly what AND WHERE everything is going on.
Alright. Now, Here I am going to show you what I call "The Exterior Plumbing Method"
This is where you plumb the oil on the exterior... Go figure. The coolant jackets line up well enough that they can be fudged a little in the head to match the Ford block! This requires using a Ford head gasket as a template.
Here we go....
This is a diagram of the block that is welded to the back of the head.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/CadofBlockonthebackofhead.jpg
And here is one that was welded to the back of the head...
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/RearBlockForExternalOilFeed2.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/RearBlockForExternalOilFeed.jpg
Now, How this works:
Without boring you with the details, I will make it short and sweet. The Volvo head was originally designed to have oil fed from near the front. The ford block supplies oil from the back. We are making use of that chunk of AL buy drilling passageways in it. We will bring oil in from the bottom of the added AL and disperse it to the sides and the top. This way you can supply the cam towers (intake and exhaust) with some flex hose, brake line, whatever... an oil sensor, and you still have one tap for your turbo.
Drill and tap head in the driver's side rear. You need to utilize the existing oil "drain" that is now our supply!
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/oilingholedrilled.jpg
Tap it:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/oilingholedrilledandtapped.jpg
Not too bad huh? So far we have welded a block of AL to the back that had one oil in from the block and three oil outs. We used on for a sensor, one for the cams and one for the turbo...
Here is where things can differ. This guy plugged the oil supply on the deck of the block, and tapped the same oil supply that he plugged, on the side of the block. *For visual purposes, he was nice enough to plug the hole after he drilled and tapped it. It is in the driver’s side rear of the block.* Have a look see:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/Tappingblockforoil.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/Linefromblocktohead.jpg
believe it or not, two of the three oil drains from the head to the block line up. The third not so much. If you wanted to use it, what do you do? well look at these pictures. This guy welded the oil drain in the head shut, and tapped it on the side of the head, and drained it into the block like a turbo! ***This picture will re-appear in another version of the swap I will tell you about next. Many of you may be asking, "What the hell is that hole towards the rear there with that big glob of metal?" Don't worry, we will get there. I want you to focus on the one towards the center...***
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/Middleoildrainreturn.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/Oilreturnedtotheblockfromhead.jpg
What about that coolant passage in the front? My Ford doesn't have any place for that to go... You're right. Plug it or do this:
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/ClosingFrontCoolantpassage.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Exterior%20Plumbing%20Method/Coolantopeningweldedshut.jpg
Lastly, Match water jackets with a die grinder and have the head decked... All done. ***Don't mind the holes in the deck centered near the back of the head in this photo. I am trying to show you the cooling jacket match-up. I will explain those holes in the next method. Also, Notice only the center oil drain on the driver's side is welded shut.***
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Fordgasketmatched.jpg
Now to recap. I have shown you the exterior plumbing method. I showed you how to supply oil (with or without the block being used), how to drain it, how to feed the turbo and how to block off the front water passage.
This is all in an effort to get the head to mate to the Ford block. We haven't even gotten into tensioner and crank gear spacing yet!!! I swear, it seems pretty easy.
Now the disclaimer.
I am posting my research and giving you my perception of how this is done. I am simply storing my notes here for other people to view. Do this swap at your own risk. These photo's are largely from the Yahoo group dedicated to doing this exact swap. I suggest joining the group if you are serious about doing this. Those guys know their stuff and are more than willing to help.
Tomorrow I will show you the Internal plumbing method.
“The Internal Plumbing Method” This is pretty straight forward. Instead of using flex hose, or some other tubing material we just need to build up fuller metal to drill the oil feed
This is all done, logically, in the same spot as before. It’s on the driver’s side, all the way towards the back.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Weldbuildupfornoexternalline.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Weldbuildup.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Internaloilfeedtointakecams.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Internalintakeoil2.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Colininternalfeed.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Inletcamfedinternallyandexhaustcamfedexternally.jp g
This gentleman decided to utilize the coolant passages the Ford block provides by drilling a few holes that clip the outer edge of the head. If the block of aluminum wasn’t added to the back, he would be drilling through the outside of the rear wall on the head.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/coolingholesatthebackofthehead.jpg
This next picture shows the oil tap for the turbo. On top of adding all the weld material for the oil supply, he tapped it. The rear hole, is where a threaded NPT fitting would go for the turbo feed.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Middleoildrainreturn.jpg
In the above picture you can see another similar hole in the side of the head directly between #2 and #3. He built up the material and again tapped it, for the head oil return. Below, the first photo shows an unmodified Volvo head. Here you can see the three oil drains at the top (intake side) of the head.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/IMAG0256.jpg
Here you can see he welded the middle one shut.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Fordgasketmatched.jpg
And looking at this pic, you can see he just drained it back to the block with flex line.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/rposler/Volvo%20Head%20Research/Oilreturnedtotheblockfromhead.jpg
The guy who did this brought up a good point that I haven’t seen mentioned anywhere else. Everyone supplies oil to the intake cam but not to the exhaust. This is because the cam tower works similar to an old school ice cube tray. That channel or groove on the bottom of the cam tower allows oil to spill over to the exhaust side. What he did different was not only tap into the supply for his turbo, but ran oil over to the exhaust cam tower. Basically T’ed the fitting and drilled the cam tower just as he did on the intake side. I unfortunately couldn’t find pictures of it.
I think that covers this method.
So, you don’t want to weld on the Volvo head? That’s fine. There is a solution for that too. Stay tuned.
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