View Full Version : help with an 8.8
rjfereza
06-22-2011, 02:17 AM
ok so in a junk yard near me there are some good axles. i found a rear end in a mercury mountaineer it has the disks. a sway bar and a traction bar. would this rear end go in easy like the exploder or without heavy mods. they only want 75$ for these rear ends!
fordnut71
06-22-2011, 09:53 AM
its the same rear as the explorer.having the traction bars means its a v8 truck.
You near circleville Ohio? Place down in that area is where I was finding my 8.8's for $75 too.
rjfereza
06-22-2011, 11:50 AM
so everything will go together the same? it has a 5.0 i live in toledo ohio. the place is called cherry picked auto parts
Skyy_4life
06-22-2011, 12:32 PM
yeah its the same rear-end. i think someone alrdy said this, but the traction bars only means its the V8 model. it will drop right in just as a exploder one would
rjfereza
06-22-2011, 04:27 PM
well just went and pulled it. everything is in great shape. theres a rotor thats stuck on tho. ive done everything i was tought. beat the piss outta it with a hammer. pry bar. and sumone else tryed no luck haha. bout to do the swap tonight
jareeb
06-22-2011, 04:35 PM
well just went and pulled it. everything is in great shape. theres a rotor thats stuck on tho. ive done everything i was tought. beat the piss outta it with a hammer. pry bar. and sumone else tryed no luck haha. bout to do the swap tonight
soak it with liquid wrench and is there any screws holding it on? so cars have them
CopyKat
06-22-2011, 04:40 PM
May have to try to release the park brake shoes. Could be hanging up on an inner ridge.
Same deal as the drum brakes, they are just in the rotor hat.
rjfereza
06-22-2011, 05:49 PM
i thoought about the brake thing as well. but the axle turns so that wouldnt be the case. i just kept beatin on it after i saw the huge crack i put in it it came off. now to go get a rotor. get the axle painted and then put onn. then time for friday night races =D
That could have, and probably was indeed the case. Just cause it spins doesn't mean the e-brake didn't wear into the hat enough to have a ridge to hang up on still but not be engaged. Every axle I've pulled had the e-brake worn into the hat area, it's a shitty setup.
beluga420
06-22-2011, 06:36 PM
How is it to drive the truck with the stock 7.5 unlocked rear? Is it driveable or it's a right side tire killer?
RacinGas
06-22-2011, 07:55 PM
It's exactly that a 1 tire fire. A stock 2.3L N/A can get that wheel loose when launching, I'd imagine a turbo would have a field day with it. "Normal" driving it isn't a problem.
fordnut71
06-22-2011, 08:08 PM
the explorer rear is known for letting the material from the parking brake come lose. so a good chance youll fight with it all the way till its off. i had this with my 99 explorer when doing brakes on it.
beluga420
06-22-2011, 09:17 PM
Mhhh... do you know anybody that ''normal'' drives with a turbo built car? lol means I gonna need to get a locked rear.
Once you put on a few thousand miles you'll drive "normal". Just as with anything the initial rush fades and you begin to use the turbo for stuff like passing, short 'races', etc. But you won't be balls to the wall from every stop light or sign forever.
This is the typical point where you go "Shit, I need to upgrade this and this and this to make MOAR POWA!!!!"
Then the cycle starts again ;)
dangeranger93
06-22-2011, 09:44 PM
yeah the open 7.5 is a joke haha, I have a welded 7.5 in mine now and I'm still spinning the tires pretty easy, guess i need slicks haha
beluga420
06-22-2011, 09:50 PM
I'm probably always driving unnormally because I've never met my match... A machine that will scare me. I know for sure what you're talking about always wanting more power...
Been and still like that on my dirtbike, when it was stock I was always wanting more, untill I blew the engine up. Built a crazy modified 2007 racing engine for it... GOD THAT ENGINE HAD BALLS, but still was asking him too much and blew it up after around 25 hours on it. Now back with slightly modded and still NEVER ENOUGHT thats why I want to get a 450r.
But choosed to turbo a truck instead for this year, and can't wait to see the results :)
And I will try to get my 7.5 welded too.
:peelout: :turbob: :rockwoot:
fordnut71
06-23-2011, 09:45 AM
i wouldnt weld any rear,sure it works for some but not always. an being the c clip rear its not something you want to break on the street or the track. get a ranger 4.0l rear an a mustang traction loc an it will be a better driver.
RacinGas
06-23-2011, 10:11 AM
92+ Came stock with 8.8" in 4.0 V6 but the gears are 3.08's
fordnut71
06-23-2011, 11:13 AM
92+ Came stock with 8.8" in 4.0 V6 but the gears are 3.08's
not hard to get gears from an explorer 3.55-3.73
dangeranger93
06-23-2011, 01:25 PM
i wouldnt weld any rear,sure it works for some but not always. an being the c clip rear its not something you want to break on the street or the track. get a ranger 4.0l rear an a mustang traction loc an it will be a better driver.
The welded rear is just a get me by for now thing I will eventually get something else, but really its street maners aren't to bad
rjfereza
06-23-2011, 05:25 PM
my truck is still just a 2.3 im still gathering info and parts for my build. i still need a few things but i have alott. we race out here by the dump and i can never get it to hook up. so i went with the better rear.
RacinGas
06-23-2011, 06:31 PM
The rear end isn't always the answer, if its an open diff get an lsd/locker/mini-full spool etc, still cant hook get a better fatter tire and try some cal-tracs.
Or, a cheaper solution that works just as well is making spring clamps. $10 in materials and you have something that works just as good as Caltracs.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/D94R/Turbo%20Ranger/3759390205_large.jpg
Caltracs, or spring clamps, work to help with traction by killing wheel hop. If you're still spinning the tires away then your answer is in the tire you use. Something fatter, more sidewall, or stickier is what you need.
muddpawz
06-23-2011, 09:01 PM
Or, a cheaper solution that works just as well is making spring clamps. $10 in materials and you have something that works just as good as Caltracs.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/D94R/Turbo%20Ranger/3759390205_large.jpg
maybe not QUITE as "good" D94R.....but a big improvement over having nothing at all, lets not get carried away as someone may take the litteraly
Why can't I say just as good? Is there a scientific way to test the two side by side? A wheel hop dynomometer?
These clamps killed my wheel hop 100%. Can't get anymore than that. If the Cals work to kill them 100% then what?
No matter if you use Cals, clamps, ladder bars, etc you're still stuck with the leafs as the main suspension part, and every flaw that comes with them when stock ones are used in a "performance" environment.
muddpawz
06-23-2011, 10:07 PM
i was just refering to the overall performance gained in traction from a launch....but I have neither...yet....so I have no real argument....but i do agree if they do accomplish eliminating the infamous wheel hop then they are an improvement in that department!!!
:redface:
muddpawz
06-23-2011, 10:10 PM
wheelhopometer...hmmmmm could be a million dollar idea, anybody???
Right, I understand, but I covered that at the bottom of that post by saying:
Caltracs, or spring clamps, work to help with traction by killing wheel hop. If you're still spinning the tires away then your answer is in the tire you use. Something fatter, more sidewall, or stickier is what you need.
On top of that, weight transfer, spring rate, road/track condition and prep are all going to effect traction. With Cals or clamps we are focusing on wheel hop, with a benefit of increased traction.
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