06 Turbo Dtec 400hp Q's [Archive]

derk06dtec

11-02-2011, 02:27 PM

rangergt

11-02-2011, 04:00 PM

New to the forums..
my goal is 400hp in a 2006 2.3 ranger

1. what does it take motor wise my understanding is bearings, rods, pistons, arp studs and gaskets??? what about sleeves??? should i get the block and head decked and have it gone through??? it does have 200,000 miles on it hehe:yesnod:

Yes rods and pistons are required and arp studs are a good idea. With 200,000 miles it would be a good idea to deck the surface of the block and the head. Sleeves are not required but it will likely need to be bored over
0.020". Again bearings are a very good idea with that mileage and a must with new rods.

2. my thought is a holset hx30 mounted in the bed of the truck <-why? well AC of course and id like to keep it...plus what this will do is make it un required for me to have a manifold custom made as i can not make one myself.

This will help http://www.turborangerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2850

3. intake manifold? will the stock one hold 400hp will it even flow 400hp...could i get by with it for around 200hp for bit while i save up for internals? i really hate the thought of having to spend 1000$ on a custom manifold not to mention have no idea were i could get one made.

I would doubt the stock one will make 400 hp and I get the cost of a custom one not being cheap. I'm in the process with this here it may give you some ideas http://www.turborangerforums.com/showthread.php?t=4136

4. my last question is about fuel system will i need to do a return line or get a better fuel rail??? injectors?? and then lastly all about Sensors what do i need ive herd mustang maf several times will the stock one not work??? MAP sensor what all needs to be changed in terms of sensors??

i have a lot of questions but just not sure really how exstensive this project will be or what it will cost...

also a posibility of mounting a 16g turbo from a mitsu very cheap availible and spools really quick and i would just use that and boost it to 200hp for now tell i can get the money for higher boost..what less things would need to be done for that set up

thx for any help any one can provide IK IK a lot of questions but hey what can i say with my friend driven a 600+hp GSX around ive become addicted to boost his Percision 6262 gives one hell of a pull:peelout:

You do not need a return style fuel system for 400hp but it's not a bad idea. You need 71-80 lbs/hr injectors. Check out some of the other builds in the duratec forums. Hopefully some of these guys will chime in they have direct experience with the sensors and tuning requirements.

Welcome to the forums.

derk06dtec

11-02-2011, 05:46 PM

Again bearings are a very good idea with that mileage and a must with new rods

Even for just 200hp 5-8psi???

thx for ur imput very very appreciated
now i think ik what i need/want to do

only thing left to know now is sensors like the maf and what people do about that stuff...

also how do you guys run the oil lines ive seen some were the oil return is on the oil fill cap but i havent seen were the oil feed line comes from on any bodys...my buddy with the drag gsx just said itll come from the oil filter ???

other then that i think i got a decent plan THX wish me luck for:peelout: and not :turbob: BOOOOOMMMM

derk06dtec

11-02-2011, 05:50 PM

oh and i forgot any thoughts on Crower stage 2 cams built specificly for turbo applications...there built for the 2.3 focus but 1 will they work and 2 are they worth doing

rangergt

11-02-2011, 07:06 PM

Even for just 200hp 5-8psi???

thx for ur imput very very appreciated
now i think ik what i need/want to do

only thing left to know now is sensors like the maf and what people do about that stuff...

also how do you guys run the oil lines ive seen some were the oil return is on the oil fill cap but i havent seen were the oil feed line comes from on any bodys...my buddy with the drag gsx just said itll come from the oil filter ???

other then that i think i got a decent plan THX wish me luck for:peelout: and not :turbob: BOOOOOMMMM

oh and i forgot any thoughts on Crower stage 2 cams built specificly for turbo applications...there built for the 2.3 focus but 1 will they work and 2 are they worth doing

You would be fine for now at 5-8psi as long as the engine is in good shape but for 400hp they need to be changed.

The stock mass air will be fine for a mild setup as well but would would need to be upgraded for 400 hp. Upgradeing the mass air sensor itself is easy but it requires tuning and calibration to make it work properly. jsv578 has pictures of his upgraded mass air in his build. It's just a tube with the sensor mount welded to it then the sensor bolts into it.

Oil return lines on a remote systems can get away with routing them into the oil fill cap since they have an oil pump for the turbo. If your taking things apart it is best to route them into the block or oil pan.

The oil feed line comes from the oil filter housing, where the sensor is located. It'll require a T-fitting to connect the oil line and keep your oil pressure sensor.

Aftermarket cams for the focus will fit the ranger engine. I don't have any experience using the crower cams but they are cheap I know that. You can make 400 hp using stock cams but a good aftermarket set would help. The real key is to have adjustable cam gears to fine tune the cams to the setup, an often overlooked point.

jsv578

11-02-2011, 07:15 PM

I agree whit Rangergt about the bore over with a 200k miles engine and stock gasket will be fine.

for the fuel system, stock FPR of our ranger is a mechanical one in the tank without vacuum/boost reference. so more boost you run and less effective will be your injectors ( there's a read on turbo basic in Rangergt sticky post). so a return style will be a easier way to tune and need smaller injectors. you can use the return of your fuel filter as a return and switch to a conventional fuel filter.

for the oil return
in the oil filling cap like this
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/jsv666/B2300T%20project/IMG_2418.jpg
will work fine but since you gonna remove the pcv and probably go with a catch tank you will smell the cooked oil all the time...
go in the oil pan or in a oil return galley like this
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/jsv666/B2300T%20project/IMG_2981.jpg

derk06dtec

11-02-2011, 09:00 PM

Thank you guys its starting to all make more sense

and ive been through ur entire build all 7 pages very nice work and VERY insprieing thank you.

i will be watching:popcorn:

jsv578

11-02-2011, 10:45 PM

a 3" pipe for the MAF in a blown condition with the stock 60mm slot style will be on scale up to 12 psi and probably more but I will tell later:D
bigger than this i will consider a 90mm MAF
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y74/jsv666/B2300T%20project/IMG_3310.jpg

derk06dtec

11-03-2011, 10:38 AM

ive ran into a new problem this project may start in the spring when i get the money together but i all ready have the turbo im useing...

Td05 16g turbo off of my buddies drag eclipse cuz he doesnt need it any more as his percision 6262 is providing the boost for his car the td05 is the factory turbo

i wanna use this turbo because its very fast spooling and should max out at around 300hp which is probably all i can get from the stock intake manifold, if that so i figure its perfect.. but i will be following ur right up Rangergt on ur bugget manifold :popcorn:

so the problem arrised when i found out that this turbo like a lot of small turbos i found out are water cooled as well as oil cooled

My questions
1. why are some water and oil and some just oil
2. is it possible for me to run this turbo??? were do i run the water lines?? were would they feed, and return

thx for all your help guys

and jsv578 i will be watching your project as well Very Very helpful hope all goes well...

derk06dtec

11-03-2011, 10:42 AM

a 3" pipe for the MAF in a blown condition with the stock 60mm slot style will be on scale up to 12 psi and probably more but I will tell later
bigger than this i will consider a 90mm MAF

so what your saying is that the MAF sensor from a 60mm tube will work ok mounted in a larger 70mm tube but if you run any more boost then 12 you need a 90mm tube or do you need 90mm MAF sensor or Both?

jsv578

11-03-2011, 11:27 AM

the stock MAF have 60mm and I use it in a 76mm pipe (3"), the stock plastic pipe is a bite smaller than 60mm(maf hieght hide in the top section) but it wont be possible to scale it with that small air ratio (60/2)²*3.1416=2827mm². but the same MAF in a 3" pipe will give you (76/2)²*3.1416=4536mm² so for the same voltage reading by your ecu you will have 4536/2827=1.6 more flow. the point about the 90mm MAF is, if you go to a 4" MAF pipe you will loose some precision on your MAF reading. at this point you just have to plug your SCT select data reading give it to a freind and let him see if the valu stop raising while you're give it a wot pull, this will also affect you a/f ratio ;)

derk06dtec

11-03-2011, 11:40 AM

hmmm i understand it a little but im going to show this to my friend with the gsx he should be able to understand it a little more thx for your imput

also did you see my previous post do you have any comment on were coolant lines would run

jsv578

11-03-2011, 11:49 AM

to spimplify my remote set-up to the max I choose a turbo without water cooling because it's mean doudle the hose and the risk of problem. but in a general use of water cooling turbo, guys by-pass the heater core... really simple, but not sure the water pump will like the idea of a 15' longer route?

derk06dtec

11-03-2011, 12:36 PM

Ya ik that's what I was thinking it might over do the pump to much but it's hard to beat a freeeeeee turbo haha I will just have to but a new one I guess.... Just adding more to the list just like you said hahaha

derk06dtec

11-04-2011, 01:30 PM

hey whats your thoughts on mounting the turbo hmmm how do i explain this....

if you look at the headers on the stock dtec motor and follow them down to the very first break in the exhaust would i be able to get away from the oil pump if i mounted it well i think that would put it almost right next to the oil pan maybe a little higher any thoughts???

rangergt

11-04-2011, 04:27 PM

I know exactly what your talking about. I won't say it won't work but I don't think it will. It's a tight spot in there, and to get the turbo positioned just right for mounting it this way will likely interfere with the frame or body. It would mount just down from the manifold really nice but would still require the oil pump.

TIMMA

11-04-2011, 09:36 PM

Yea, I thought about doing the same, but the oil level is high enough that you won't be able to drain the turbo. You would have to build a turbo manifold/header, and then try not to melt the plastic heater box.

derk06dtec

11-05-2011, 01:27 AM

ugh theres just no easy way well remote is sorta easy but custom manifold is a lott of money then i gotta delete all the ac and heater box and i need ac i ride motocross in the summer and theres no going without ac

turbo_steve

11-05-2011, 09:38 AM

With duratecs, 2 things to avoid.

#1 supertech pistons. They are great for High compression n/a but horrible for boost. wrong alloy and the top ring land is too high up.

#2 crower cams. Have seen many of these cams snap. Also other quality defects. They are worthless. Ive built lots of fwd 2.3's its not just the duratec cams, also zetec and honda cams have issues. cosworth or crane all the way.

donnytrash

11-05-2011, 04:10 PM

hey steve can you pm me I still need help with my tune

derk06dtec

11-06-2011, 10:13 AM

turbosteve im not sure i can totally agree with you on crower cams because of personal experiance i will say yes cosworth is the way to go there quality is pretty tuff to beat but i have a very close friend that ive helped build his car every step of the way and hes had 0 problems with his crower cams in 2 diff cars...1 being a eclipse gst that made 400bhp its a 2.3 stroker that has there 272 cams and a 600awhp GSX with stage 4 280s neither have had problems and his gst is his DD with plenty of miles on the cams... and the only reason i would consider them is because of the fact they make a cam profile specidicaly for turbo/sc applications were cosworth does not..in fact ive talked to fswerks about cosworth cams and they said they dont recomend them because there N/A cams and will only make matters worse by puting them in with a turbo.. now i do agree and thanks for pointing out the super tech pistons i did research and can DEFF confirm what u say many people talk about them not being good because of the alloy so thanks for the heads up....

my project has taken a turn...im almsot set on makeing this truck a street legal prerunner...and yes ive checked local laws...theres a few companys that make nice prerunner suspension setups...my goal is gonna be to get from 14-20 inch of travel and now that you said N/A it got me thinking rangergt if you could please comment i noticed in i think my thread or some were else you mentioned its not hard to make these motors get high hp numbers with an n/a setup.. ik i want to make the truck a street legal prerunner but now im debating if i should turbo it 300-400hp or should i go with a nice n/a lopey camed 300hp beast....how hard is it to make 300+ n/a

With duratecs, 2 things to avoid.

#1 supertech pistons. They are great for High compression n/a but horrible for boost. wrong alloy and the top ring land is too high up.

#2 crower cams. Have seen many of these cams snap. Also other quality defects. They are worthless. Ive built lots of fwd 2.3's its not just the duratec cams, also zetec and honda cams have issues. cosworth or crane all the way.

rangergt

11-06-2011, 08:03 PM

Making good hp N/A is relatively easy but not really any cheaper. You'd really require Individual runner intake setup which will require standalone, these 2 parts alone will cost more than a turbo build. A turbo setup will give you more drivability and low end torque and better fuel economy when your foots not in it. Don't get me wrong I think a built n/a engine would be very cool but to get 300hp will cost a few bucks plus you`ll need above 12.5 likely closer to 14:1 compression ratio. You could get around 200hp n/a maybe a bit more with a more reasonable budget but then that's only half the power of your original goal.

derk06dtec

11-06-2011, 08:29 PM

ohhh wow never thought about that stand alone ugghhh $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

and of course nowing me id have to go with AEM :D
so thats out of question thx for the imput

Making good hp N/A is relatively easy but not really any cheaper. You'd really require Individual runner intake setup which will require standalone, these 2 parts alone will cost more than a turbo build. A turbo setup will give you more drivability and low end torque and better fuel economy when your foots not in it. Don't get me wrong I think a built n/a engine would be very cool but to get 300hp will cost a few bucks plus you`ll need above 12.5 likely closer to 14:1 compression ratio. You could get around 200hp n/a maybe a bit more with a more reasonable budget but then that's only half the power of your original goal.

rangergt

11-07-2011, 04:28 PM

and the only reason i would consider them is because of the fact they make a cam profile specidicaly for turbo/sc applications were cosworth does not..in fact ive talked to fswerks about cosworth cams and they said they dont recomend them because there N/A cams and will only make matters worse by puting them in with a turbo..

This is a very debatable topic and VERY unreasearched or proven. I am aware of fswerks position on cams and I`m not bashing them or making this an arguement about what they said. However when they`ve used the cosworth cams they installed them straight up and did not adjust the cam timing. Adjustable cam gears are a must. Personnally I don`t care for the profile on the crower fi cams jmo. NOBODY has done extensive real world or dyno testing to make any claims about what cams are good, bad or whatever. Statements like these cams didn`t work is just pure BS unless the testing has been done and done properly that means adjusting the cam timing possibly several times over. Also just because one set of cams didn`t work well for one combination doesn`t mean there not right for another. The dynamics of an engine changes when any part of a given combination changes as well as boost and tune. Until there is extensive dyno, drag race and real world testing on cam profiles in different combinations and well documented, blanket statements about cams is just blah blah BS.

I`m using cosworth cams with adjustable cam gears. I`m sure they`ll work fine but if I find they don`t I`ll make the necessary changes for my combination to work to it`s maximum potential. Then I`ll have real world testing with them in one given setup and be able to make comments for one combination only.

derk06dtec

11-07-2011, 06:05 PM

really im going to take this as good news so what your sayen is that its very well possible to use cosworth high duration cams and it just might work awsome as long as the time is taken with adjustable cam gears but also if you just put them in they may be garbage.....i really never thought adjustable cam gears could do that much i will be talken to people and looking into this for sure thank you...

This is a very debatable topic and VERY unreasearched or proven. I am aware of fswerks position on cams and I`m not bashing them or making this an arguement about what they said. However when they`ve used the cosworth cams they installed them straight up and did not adjust the cam timing. Adjustable cam gears are a must. Personnally I don`t care for the profile on the crower fi cams jmo. NOBODY has done extensive real world or dyno testing to make any claims about what cams are good, bad or whatever. Statements like these cams didn`t work is just pure BS unless the testing has been done and done properly that means adjusting the cam timing possibly several times over. Also just because one set of cams didn`t work well for one combination doesn`t mean there not right for another. The dynamics of an engine changes when any part of a given combination changes as well as boost and tune. Until there is extensive dyno, drag race and real world testing on cam profiles in different combinations and well documented, blanket statements about cams is just blah blah BS.

I`m using cosworth cams with adjustable cam gears. I`m sure they`ll work fine but if I find they don`t I`ll make the necessary changes for my combination to work to it`s maximum potential. Then I`ll have real world testing with them in one given setup and be able to make comments for one combination only.

rangergt

11-07-2011, 11:35 PM

Yes long duration cams can be and are used but they have to fit the combination. The cosworth cams are designed as n/a cams but it has more to do with the cam timing events than the profile. The adjustable cam gears allow you to change each cam indepentant of each other so the timing events are more suitable to a particular turbo combination. Typically people think turbo engines require short duration and wide LSA and that's all that works. I'm not saying they don't work in some instances but again it's a blanket statement that is just not true or proven.

I can think of a couple examples of guys with turbo lima engines that have long duration tight LDA cams and when there car runs 8's I'd say it works.

To prove my point here is the listing of some cam specs.

Crower FI cam duration @0.050" 220/220 Lift .400"/.400" 112 LSA
Crespo stage 2 turbo duration @0.050" 236/236 Lift .410"/.410" 110 LSA
Crespo stage 3 turbo duration @0.050" 246/246 Lift .429"/.429" 108 LSA

These are cams actually listed as turbo cams by their manufacturer and all are more aggresive than the cosworth cams that fswerks used.

Crane makes no metion of a turbo profile in their 2 smallest cam profiles but they do in that 3 most aggresive sets and they also reference the fact that they require adjustment to be suitable for a turbo application.

Crane 224-0014 duration @0.050" 236/226 Lift .435/.410 LSA 110
Crane 224-0016 duration @0.050" 246/236 Lift .460/.435 LSA 110
Crane 224-0018 duration @0.050" 256/246 Lift .485/.460 LSA 110

Crane list all three of these cam sets as being suitable for turbo applications but obviously the 224-0018 are not meant for a 400hp street engine.

So here's 6 cam profiles all for turbo use and quite a range of profiles. Now I didn't list all the timing events which are improtant as well but you can find them on their respective websites. Most people who think they know what they are talking about when they talk cams generally only refer to the specs I've listed anyway.

I am using cosworth yd0718 and yd0719 cams and the specs are
duration @0.050" 258/244 Lift .500"/.450" LSA 102

These cams are meant for high compression, high rpm N/A engines but yes I'm using them.

The crane 224-0018 have a similar profile to these cosworth cams and according to cranes description are good for high rpm turbo. So why is one for a turbo (when adjusted properly) and the other not? The timing events and one of the dead give aways is the LSA. Now change the cosworth cams timing events and it's now a "turbo" cam. This is really only the icing of this debate and I think I've jacked your thread enough here, I'm sure you get my point. Bigger isn't always better but niether is smaller, it's about the combination.

derk06dtec

11-08-2011, 10:24 AM

jack my thread jeeze rangergt i dont know where i would be on this project if you didnt comment.....thanks for your input X100000000 i woulda never thought those high duration cams woulda been possible so thank you very much for the information very helpfull and very inspireing

derk06dtec

11-08-2011, 10:39 AM

also i would like to add that if i did get cams im not sure were i would go to get it tuned so thats another big issue but im sure i can figure it out

also i would like to ask if you know any books or ways i can learn more about building my motor myself.....

i consider myself some what of a novice with building car motors ive never done one before or ever have seen it done before either <- this might change my friend is building his 400hp eclipse soon so i will be watching on that but i have rebuilt motors before ive done 4 rebuilds on motocross motors if you dont now the level of performance there 1 cylinder 13:1 engines that make around 40-55 hp so there not entirely lawnmower motors but i mention that to say i now quite a bit but i dont trust my knowledge enough to build a car motor.... so i fiugre because of my knowledge on small motors if i do some reading and learning over the winter i think its possible to learn and build my motor myself the only thing i wont do is machine work i plan on sending the motor out to get decked and looked through but other than that i wanna do it myself...SOOO any books or things you think i should now or any suggestions please let me now thanks

jsv578

11-08-2011, 11:10 AM

actually, my motor his the first combustion engine I open and rebuilt. If you have some mechanic skill, work in a heavy industry with good mechano or grow in a family garage, you will probably pass truth it without any problem.
there's some basic point
read a lot, google will quickly answer 90% of your question and for the 10% left, ASK
if your not 100% of how to, ASK
if you found a way to do something with creativity, ASK!

also, have some one next to you with stronger skill will help, some time it's really nothing, but you will not necessary think that ARP lube go on the thread AND on the bolt seat.

Did I mention about asking?
the a safer way to go lol

derk06dtec

11-08-2011, 11:29 AM

i was talking to my friends machineiest at his shop and telling me that there is measureing involved with the bearings and stuff like that its all a little over my head when all im used to is just tareing my motocross motor down and bolting and torqueing the new stuff in and walla new motor with cars it doesnt seem that easy and i figured a nice reliable book on engine building would do the trick do you now of any????

beluga420

11-08-2011, 12:27 PM

If you know the basics of how and engines runs there should'nt be any problem with this.
Before building my engine I actually had almost no experience on building engines, only thing I've ever rebuilt was my dirt bike before, and I think they're more touchy cuz of their 14:1 cr and they turn over 13,000 rpm...

My truck engine is running perfect. Just like jsv said if you're not sure about anything, ask and do search about it. I don't think mechanic books would be ideal, except if you love to read bunch of probable useless things...

Building an engine is not that hard. Just take your time, make sure you do the stuff right and always double check your work. If you're not sure of anything, ask questions!

derk06dtec

11-08-2011, 12:59 PM

i understand to ask questions....dont say that to much cuz i ASK alot of questions you might have just bit off more than you can chew hahahaha Just kidden i now i now guys ask questions and i definitly WILL you guys are really the only reason im considering this project because of your help so thank you but what im most worried about is a step i forget to take say a torque pattern or a idk maybe i forget that piston one has to go in first im just talking hypothetical and i forget that step or somthing and thats a crutial part and i dont now it.... but i also dont know were to ask questions i wouldnt even now were to start...

and does that sound like a good idea send it to the machine shop get it decked and .020 over then just build it myself???? what else is envolved besides setting the bearings in and lubeing everything good and torqueing all the bolts down.....in turms of bearings what is my friend talking about in turms of measuring....and what the hell is plstiguage that word keeps poping up idk is there anyone who can do a quick step by step it doesnt have to be detailed just kind of like a 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 type list of what you do

thanks a lot guys

derk06dtec

11-08-2011, 01:45 PM

rangergt

11-08-2011, 10:56 PM

rangergt i also have to ask im a little worried about ur lack of oil failure i didnt quite understand what happened and i went through ur enitre thread...
could you elaborate on that was it the custom oil pan or idk should i be worried about it at 400hp thanks again

and also before i joined TRF i followed ur build all the way sorry to hear what happened but also excited to hear about ur new SUPER DOOPER WOW build haha

It had nothing to do with the oil pan or the engine itself. The failure had to do with the sandwich plate between the oil filter and the oil filter mount. It was an extra that was necassary for the oil accumulator, if I had not installed it I'd be tearing up the streets right now. Nothing that you need to worry about unless you use and oil accumulator, then bench test it first.

Plastigauge http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html this will explain it well. It's the budget or simple way to measure bearing clearances and will work fine for what you want to build. The other way you measure bearing clearances is with precision measuring tools like micrometers and dial bore gauges. You measure the crank rod journal with the micrometer and record the measurement then use the dial bore gauge to measure the inside diameter of the connecting rod torqued to spec with the bearings installed. Then subtract the crank rod journal reading from the connecting rod reading and that's your clearance. Maybe when I build the beast I'll detail this process a little bit.

Having the block decked and bored would be a good idea. The main thing about rebuilding an engine is DON"T RUSH, take your time and make sure you understand each step you are completing. The other guys gave great advice, you have mechanical experience and a dirt bike engine is still an engine the same principals apply. When you get to this point you can ask for help if your unsure I'll walk you through each step if you need and jsv578 will also have good knowledge to help you with the details of the duratec engine.

derk06dtec

11-09-2011, 12:23 AM

rangergt

11-09-2011, 09:51 AM

k im starting to get this i will be doing it right with a micro meter snese i just found out both tools happen to be in my home :)

now that i think most of my questions on engine building are taken care of and im really starting to get an idea of how to do it i wanna ask a little more on motor parts....

couple questions actaully of why u chose some of the parts you did rangergt

1.why the billet crank are you reving out past 7700 is it somthing i should look into..and also is it somthing i should look into because the shaft is keyed ik you said somthing along the lines of you dont have to worry about timeing jumping or somthing because your crank shaft is keyed...????

Here is one thing everyone fails to understand about cosworth recommending the billet crank over 7700rpm. They actually say it's needed for sustained rpm over 7700. What this means is going down a back stretch wide open turning above 7700 rpm for the distance of it. For drag racing if your redline is 8500rpm you'd be above 7700 rpm for a very short time on each gear change. I'm not recommending you go and rev a stock crank 8500rpm. Has it been done before with no catastrophy? Yes. Would I do it? Yes. I'm using the billet crank because I had planned to go for big power from day one, my actual goal was 800hp but I figured I'd start with 600 and I would step it up a bit at a time. I like the keyed crank but it's not absolutely necassary for your application. It will add to the expense of your build.

2. would the 282intake 262exhaust cam combo be good im asking becaus i think i might rev limit at like 7000 sense stock crank is good for 7700 so they say... those cams might be over caming the motor...id love to get some good lope but of course it is cool but not worth sacrafiseing power for

I think those cams are a too big for your goals. They would sound good though. You can make 400hp with stock cams so something a step or two up from stock would likely be best.

3. should i be buying the cosworth engine block breather cover im pretty sure jsv578 bought it for his set up

It's not necassary. You'd be eliminating your pcv valve and letting the engine breath out the valve cover. You have to take into account these type of things if you have to pass an etest.

4. could i weld a intake plenum onto this http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=45&idproduct=351

Yes but the runners would be very short. It is the same type of setup that I'm doing with my budget intake but this would be a beter manifold to start with.

5. do you think that sense my motors got 200,000 would it be worth buying a brand spanken new short block from cosworth???
i told you i ask questions :)

No, it's a production short block and will have weak stock rods and pistons. You could rebuild your short block for less.

Another upgrade that would be worth doing is getting a focus 2.3 head. It has larger intake ports and will flow better.

You really have to mind your budget because it can go out of control very easy. Define your goals and what is needed to get their. Everything else is extra and will drive the cost up.

derk06dtec

11-09-2011, 10:46 AM

Here is one thing everyone fails to understand about cosworth recommending the billet crank over 7700rpm. They actually say it's needed for sustained rpm over 7700. What this means is going down a back stretch wide open turning above 7700 rpm for the distance of it. For drag racing if your redline is 8500rpm you'd be above 7700 rpm for a very short time on each gear change. I'm not recommending you go and rev a stock crank 8500rpm. Has it been done before with no catastrophy? Yes. Would I do it? Yes. I'm using the billet crank because I had planned to go for big power from day one, my actual goal was 800hp but I figured I'd start with 600 and I would step it up a bit at a time. I like the keyed crank but it's not absolutely necassary for your application. It will add to the expense of your build i will be puting the rev limit at 7500 then thanks and ya i agree the only reason i would buy the crank is because its keyed but a keyed crank idt is worth 3400

I think those cams are a too big for your goals. They would sound good though. You can make 400hp with stock cams so something a step or two up from stock would likely be best.
either of these combos would they work...would either of them sound pretty mean??

Cosworth Duratec intake cam
Specs: 255° duration / .374" lift ( 9.5mm ) - ATDC @ full lift = 114 FSYD0222
Cosworth Duratec exhaust cam
Specs: 255° duration / .374" lift ( 9.5mm ) - BTDC @ full lift = 113 FSYD0173

Cosworth Duratec intake cam
Specs: 282° duration / .445" lift ( 11.3mm ) - ATDC @ full lift = 101 FSYD0224
Cosworth Duratec exhaust cam
Specs: 255° duration / .374" lift ( 9.5mm ) - BTDC @ full lift = 113 FSYD0173
It's not necassary. You'd be eliminating your pcv valve and letting the engine breath out the valve cover. You have to take into account these type of things if you have to pass an etest.
they dont require Etest were i live so i dont have to buy that then

Yes but the runners would be very short. It is the same type of setup that I'm doing with my budget intake but this would be a beter manifold to start with. this would have to at least be better then the stock manifold if the runners are 2 short well idk were to go next im not sure im capable of doing the custom manifold entirely myself...

derk06dtec

11-09-2011, 10:24 PM

ALSO i would like to add somthing to the truck i think this could make the difference in one wheel wonders and posi burnouts what do you guys think you now anybody with one??? would this fit it says it does???

http://www.jegs.com/i/Eaton/362/19660-010/10002/-1

beluga420

11-09-2011, 10:40 PM

If you have a 8.8'' in your truck truck it may fit, but 700 buck for this is expensive... Plus you probably have a 7.5 diff not sure tho. You'd better find a explorer 8.8 rear with ls if you don't have a 8.8 already.

derk06dtec

11-09-2011, 11:06 PM

hmm im not sure whats in my truck its an 06 2.3l obviously lol but its the very basic xl version short cab umm and if it is a 8.8 do you think with 400hp id need the 31 spline version or would the 28 spline be fine the Elocking differential would be nice it comes in both 31 and 28 spline but in the winter it would be nice to have posi thats for sure especially on a 2wd truck...and of couse to hook up with 400hp ill need some form of posi

beluga420

11-09-2011, 11:16 PM

I think 28 spline would do the job, but I highly doubt you have a 8.8 in there, no need for a 8.8 on a 140 hp truck lol

derk06dtec

11-09-2011, 11:26 PM

hmmm thx now i gotta add that to the list hahaha man shit piles up let me tell ya...the list gets longer every time i go onto the forums hahahaha

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 12:38 PM

hey guys id like to now how i can look to see if my rear end is an 8.8....

also i need a new clutch who makes good clutchs for an 06 duratec
that will hold 400hp well i dont have 400hp but id hate to spend the money on a subpar clutch only to have to switch it out a few years down the line when the project starts it needs to hold 400hp any ideas??? its a 2wd truck if that matters

Lowranger96

11-10-2011, 12:50 PM

the tag on the pumpkin will say 7.5 or 8.8.. but no 4cly ranger came with 8.8

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 12:56 PM

k thnx ill look but like u said its prolly a 7.5.........the 7.5s wont hold much power???
and any ideas on clutchs

rangergt

11-10-2011, 02:25 PM

Your ranger will have a 7.5 open diff rear axle and likely with 3.73 gears. All rangers from I believe '08 (might be later) on have 8.8's even 4 cylinders.

I wouldn't worry about changing the rear axle right away, that can be done later. I had the 351 in mine with the stock 7.5 for a couple of years, abusing it and never had any problems.

rangergt

11-10-2011, 02:31 PM

rangergt

11-10-2011, 02:49 PM

i will be puting the rev limit at 7500 then thanks and ya i agree the only reason i would buy the crank is because its keyed but a keyed crank idt is worth 3400

either of these combos would they work...would either of them sound pretty mean??

Cosworth Duratec intake cam
Specs: 255° duration / .374" lift ( 9.5mm ) - ATDC @ full lift = 114 FSYD0222
Cosworth Duratec exhaust cam
Specs: 255° duration / .374" lift ( 9.5mm ) - BTDC @ full lift = 113 FSYD0173

Cosworth Duratec intake cam
Specs: 282° duration / .445" lift ( 11.3mm ) - ATDC @ full lift = 101 FSYD0224
Cosworth Duratec exhaust cam
Specs: 255° duration / .374" lift ( 9.5mm ) - BTDC @ full lift = 113 FSYD0173
they dont require Etest were i live so i dont have to buy that then

this would have to at least be better then the stock manifold if the runners are 2 short well idk were to go next im not sure im capable of doing the custom manifold entirely myself...

You can have your stock crank keyed which is a good idea but not 100% necessary as you will reqiure the gears and pulleys to match.

You could use either set but the second set is a little big still but would sound really good. Also crane 224-0012 or 224-0014. Again the 224-0014 is a little big but if you want the rumble at idle (I GET THAT:D) I think they could still be fine but you have to have adjustable cam gears and it may take some trial and error in getting them dialed in just right.

Like I said before just follow my DIY budget intake thread, I`ll have it completed before you`ll be ready for this step. You`ll see it`ll be very reasonable to do.

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 04:17 PM

Well rangergt what can i say I LOVE TO BRAG but i figure with some nice cams the truck will do it for me hahah i will look into crane i havnt checked them out yet...

the only reason for the 8.8 really is to use a Elock diff cuz man thatd be awsome...

and i will check that clutch website thanks

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 04:31 PM

also rangergt i found some clutchs on the website u said but i still dont now what stage to get it needs to hold im guessing at most 400hp and idk maybe 450lbs of torque i cant see makeing more but im not sure if a stage 2 would hold it so im thinking stage 3 but idk if thatll hold either and i dont wanna go stage 4 or 5 and make it un driveable

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 04:58 PM

You could use either set but the second set is a little big still but would sound really good. Also crane 224-0012 or 224-0014. Again the 224-0014 is a little big but if you want the rumble at idle (I GET THAT) I think they could still be fine but you have to have adjustable cam gears and it may take some trial and error in getting them dialed in just right

Performance usage, requires stand-alone fuel management,
high flow intake and exhaust systems, ported
head, good for turbo or supercharger, also nitrous,
10.5 to 12.0 compression ratio advised.
F-236/435-2SR-10 2500-
7500
224-0014*a 236 258 110 8 48 .008 .435
226 248 43 3 .010 .410

REQUIRES stand alone ????????????????????????10.5 to 12.0 compression ratio advised??????????

and what are the benefits of a keyed crank isnt it just easier for timeing

rangergt

11-10-2011, 05:54 PM

good for turbo or supercharger,

and what are the benefits of a keyed crank isnt it just easier for timeing

Hear is my point form earlier, the same cams that can work good for n/a can work good on a turbo setup.

Most of the info relates to using the cams for n/a but if your using them in a turbo application then you use the adjustable cam gears to time the cams properly on a proper built turbo engine, that means lower compression ratio.

The stand alone thing I wouldn't worry about. You can do what you need with the sct tuner software or a competent tuner can take care of your tuning needs. I believe jsv578 has the tuning software, he knows more about this sct stuff than I do:yesnod:, in fact I only know it`s available and will work for you. There are quite a few guys here using it.

A keyed crank just ensures nothing slips under load. Having timed the duratec both ways I wouldn`t say it`s any easier just different.

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 06:03 PM

k now that i think about it like you said if you do a high hp n/a you need big cams HC pistons and stand alone so crane saying you need stand alone makes sense sorry i dont pay attention enough these days....

thats what i figured the hole slipping thing and you dont think it would be a porblem at 400hp??? i cant imagine getting it keyed would be to hard i kinda wanna do it just peice of mind because like you mention in your 600hp build some low hp builds to one guy is his life savings and effort were it is pocket change to another well this build is my life savings and effort so i think i might do it for peice of mind i like:peelout: more then :turbob: BOOOOOMMMM

jsv578

11-10-2011, 07:53 PM

ok, some catch back
ford 7.5 cover shape
http://www.richmondgear.com/gfx/ford75.gif
8.8 cover
http://www.richmondgear.com/gfx/ford88.gif
for traction option, yes there is a lot more choice in the 8.8
but you can find a real good one in the 7.5 ;)
a lot of EOM Ford Posi are for sail on Ebay for less than 100$
and for the newest one, the 3.0l ranger or B3000 have them, stock for mazda and a option for ford. and for the turbo application I would keep the 3.73 and lower. I regret to be in 4.10 now that I'm turbo charged.
I know stock posi will only old 100 torque of differential, but it's enough to make your truck double the strip:hehe:

for the clutch, as Rangergt said and was also stated in another post last week, clutchnet. But I'm still unsure which stage take, a stage 3 suppose to go 110% over stock. that's a problem since my stock clutch already did it at 208 whp against stock 105whp. so does it mean stage 3 won't do more than a stock???? Rangergt will hopefully answer this one.

for the keyed crank, I really don't see the use with stock crank since it is so simple to deal with (Duratec crankshaft pulley removal and reinstallation, post)

also, I still didn't buy the proracer software since I'm not ready, but I got the "the basics of tuning" book by SCT

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 08:24 PM

thanks for the info yeah i have a 7.5 but i dont have plans for an 8.8 either im doing a costom rearend to make it a prerunner itll be a 3point link with around 14-16inch of travel in back and around 10-12 up front so the rearend will be custom... im doing all of this through camburg

the clutch you should also look into is SPEC clutches there great and thats what my friend uses for his 400hp GST and 750AWHP gsx the GST is a daily driver with a stage 4 spec looks exactly the same as the stage 4 on clutchnet.com and his gsx is a stage 5 as far as drivability his stage 4 is chattery and grabs hard its not hard to drive but dont expect a smoot engagment over a stage 3....after its been driven for a while the chatter wasnt near as bad and he said its not that hard to drive with so i plan on a stage 4 sense he is running around 400hp and around 400lbs of torque as he is stroked to a 2.3...

and for tuneing please anybody chime in here what all is there to tuneing besides getting AFR reading perfect....the only other thing i can think of is timeing retard or advance and then if you have adjustable cam gears adjusting those but other then that im not sure what else is there and do you think i could tune it myslef

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 09:13 PM

WOOOOWWWW disregard the entire paragragh about spec clutchs there garbage i guess haha i talked to my friend i thought thats what he had but he uses a COMP clutch so i looked at those and they dont make one for the ranger so i did more research ahaha EVERYONE KEEP saying clutchnet clutchnet haha so i guess clutchnet it is lol

rangergt

11-10-2011, 10:29 PM

So far clutchnet is the only one I've seen who makes one for the dtec ranger. A lot of the lima guys on here have used them and like them. If your not sure call them and ask, I'm sure they will help you out.

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 10:34 PM

i will prolly call then.... hmmm so sooner or later imma start the laundry list of parts just gotta get the motivation cuz i kinda want some thoughts and comments on the list will see if i can get it done soon

derk06dtec

11-10-2011, 10:47 PM

also the crane cams are listed for 02-05 was there a change in cam design cuz i have an 06

fordnut71

11-12-2011, 09:26 AM

yea clutch net. pick what kinda hub you want, what type of material you want to use an how many pucks you want it in. also there pressure places come in different pressures also .
i ordered online an messed up ordering between the lima an duratech engines. they did call me to get the order right before they made em. they messed up on the import papers, so they took it back on there dime an shipped me a new order the next day.i think most companys would have just made it an shipped it an said you ordered it your problem.

rangergt

11-12-2011, 11:19 AM

Just what I said I'm sure they'd help you out,^^^ good info fordnut71:thumbsup:

also the crane cams are listed for 02-05 was there a change in cam design cuz i have an 06

They just didn't update there info, it was probably printed in '05. The cams will fit you '06 engine.

derk06dtec

11-13-2011, 09:08 PM

K so i was looken at my truck last night and ifni can delet the A/C wouldnt this manifold work....if you look close the way its setup in the picture all id need to do is flip the turbo so the cold side is on the left and hot side is on the right i dont see how it wouldnt fit whats ur thoughts

http://www.fswerks.com/jspw3_pop.htm?images_v_w_d_turbo_pics_lg_s09.jpg,7 38,,,0,,turbocharger,0,0,,0,738,553,,,vwd_scripts_ v_w_d_,%25C2%25A9FSWERKS

derk06dtec

11-13-2011, 09:09 PM

If the photo didnt work heres the link

http://www.fswerks.com/jspw3_pop.htm?images_v_w_d_turbo_pics_lg_s09.jpg,7 38,,,0,,turbocharger,0,0,,0,738,553,,,vwd_scripts_ v_w_d_,%25C2%25A9FSWERKS

rangergt

11-13-2011, 09:44 PM

The link didn't work for me but I'm familiar with the fswerks turbo kit. Here is a pic of the manifold with the turbo mounted for rwd. Will it fit yes and no. It will bolt on and locate the turbo great but what will you have to move, cut or modify and are you willing to do that?

derk06dtec

11-13-2011, 11:07 PM

WOW idk were u got that picture but yep thats the manifold and its done just how i said......and at this point it will save me thousands if i went this route so much less welding which i dont now how to do so much less pipeing and i would have to run 20,000 feet of oil lines and also wouldnt need a 400$ oil cooler im so in :drool5:

now this cutting you speak of ummm elaborate :D

at this point the truck is mine also at this point its got 210,000 miles on it so it isnt ever gonna go ne were and im willing to deff cut stuff but what im most worried about or should i say have no idea how to do s delete the A/C pump

derk06dtec

11-14-2011, 10:56 PM

i also dont understand tuneing....i planed on tuneing with sct but after reading about it on fswerks site it sounds like there handheld tuner is just to upload there map to the ecu and not actually used to tune the vehicle....does that mean i gotta buy the sofware to be able to datalog and tune...cuz how do you tune from a handheld thing i dont get it.. i need to be able to do a custom tune fuel tables ect..

beluga420

11-15-2011, 07:21 AM

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 10:21 AM

well whats ur definition of full control with the handheld and a pc what control do you have without the program...can you even change ur fuel tables???

jsv578

11-15-2011, 10:45 AM

if your tuner unlock every thing, form your device you will be able to change
spark timing, adjust WOT fuel ratio, idle, cut off, tire and gear ratio, etc.
it wont be a full adjustement, exemple: you will be able to from + 6 % of fuel and -8%

with the ProRacer sw (advanceIII) you will be able to do EVERY THING it is possible to do with your stock ECU

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:27 AM

do you think that would be enough adjustment for 400hp or more im planing on buying the Fswerks turbo kit...why?? well i figure its almost the only way ill be able to get the exhaust manifold like i want to then ill have a gt28 as well...yes IK IK the pipeing will be all wrong but im still gonna use the custom MAF housing that comes with it so i wont have to make one plus itll come with injectors and the other pipeing i can cut up and weld and use as much of it as possible also all the exhaust flangs i will use as well just have to cut them off the pipeing and then recut some of the exhaust pipeing to start my exhaust....if you have been tuneing in i am going away from the remote setup itll save a lot of money in the long run

i also am thinking that i might not build the motor right away and just run like 5-8lbs of boost off of a 16g mitsubishi turbo if you now anything about these turbos ummm THERE VERY SMALL haha u thought a GT28 was small ha nothing compared to this

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:27 AM

im still very interested Rangergt about what u might say about the cutting portion ill hae to do

jsv578

11-15-2011, 11:41 AM

I'm really sorry but I thinks it is not possible to do something like you plan it.
since nothing is built for our truck, you wont be able to pass truht with out welding skill or a lot of money.
you should try the JGS kit instead of the one you're looking at. the MAF pipe they will give you his basicly the picture I show you. that is 30sec of welding.
the injectors wont be good for your set-up since the focus have a FPR mount on the rail and with a vac/boost ref. this is not the case of our ranger with there mecanic fpr in the tank with out ref. so you will have to put bigger one or mod your fuel rail
my 0.02

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:55 AM

my brother is a welder so im hoping he will be able to do most of it other then that the only thing ill have to do to get the manifold to fit is 180 the turbo others wise making an exhaust wont be any more difficult on the conventional setup then it would be on the remote set up im not sure what you think will be hard or cost more ok so say i get the DIY kit by them so i wont get the injectors sense they wont work what else do you think will cost more....i plan on doing a return fuel line and FPR which i would have done with a remote setup as well the only thing i can see with this setup is saving money not haveing to run so much oil lines and wont have to buy a $400 oil pump or have to worry about it failing....not trying to argue in fact i want you to comment more to help me get thiss all figured out i may be wrong and i wanna be sure of everything before i start thanks again for all ur help

id also like to add is the WEBER flange the style for uses for there intake manifolds it looks right if it is that would be awsome i can make my own intake manifold plus
JGS offers a 85mm throttle body flange is that the one i would want or the 70mm one....and thats what i would have to use correct is a ford mustang throttle body??

jsv578

11-15-2011, 03:01 PM

even with the DIY kit the only good part will be the turbo, "the manifold" and MAF pipe. it is at least the best choice for your app with the fswerks package. the tune won't be good since it's the 2l head on a 2.3 and all the small diff of both engine, same for piping. so yes the DIY could be a option, but have the chance to place your turbo were you want it with the JGS option is a big :thumbsup:

I know the remote have A LOT of weekness and that's why my truck isn't anymore a dd, it's possible under 250whp but my goal change and I now want a beast:hehe:

and if I had to redo it again it will be a regular mount like you plan. but the fswerks would not be my option $$$$ talk

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 06:40 PM

id also like to add is the WEBER flange JGS has the style Ford uses for there intake manifolds it looks right if it is that would be awsome i can make my own intake manifold plus
JGS offers a 85mm throttle body flange is that the one i would want or the 70mm one....and thats what i would have to use correct is a ford mustang throttle body??

any comments on this yes i just quoted myself:hehe:

but im still not understanding the MAF or throttle body....what one to use,why to use it, and what modificstions need to be done to use it, and in turms of MAF i still dont understand what u were talking about JSV u said in an earlier post you doa WOT pull and if something happens then you now the maf wont work and if this somthing happens were to go from there.

rangergt

11-15-2011, 10:58 PM

now this cutting you speak of ummm elaborate :D

First off you'd have to cut your heater/AC box, lose your AC and likely move your alternator as well as some other components. That's a lot more work than building a turbo manifold or having one built.

I would not buy the fswerks turbo kit for your truck. If you had a focus then great it would be a good decision but you'll only end up spending a lot of money for a turbo because that's all that you'd be able to use on your truck. If you plan to accomodate the manifold you can buy just the manifold and turbo as a package from fswerks. Also if your not sure about tuning I'm sure fswerks could make you a tune for your combination then you just upload it to your truck.

I would just start with the cosworth (weber flange) manifold, it'll save a lot of work for making your intake manifold. You don't need an 85mm throttle body, I'm only using a 75mm.

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:03 PM

ok so would any 75mm ford throttle body be plug and play....mostly confused about MAF's at this point

im probably just gonna get a JGS kit and make my own Header they have all the flanges and everything but either way id like to remove A/C it really would clean stuff up
also i really cant see anyway around removing all the stuff u said in the first place what i mean is wether you go with the fswerks header or make your own i cant see getting around deleting the heater box and A/C neway so figure why not use the fswerks header thats one less thing to make and if i have to delete everything anyway why not

rangergt

11-15-2011, 11:09 PM

the maf and throttle body are separate. The cfm or cosworth 67mm throttle body would work fine for you.

The maf is just like jsv578 showed a tube with the sensor located in it, the main thing is you need to have the ecu calibrated to the size of maf you have.

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:15 PM

the maf and throttle body are separate

hahah ikk that rangergt :D

main thing is you need to have the ecu calibrated to the size of maf you have

this is the part i dont get how hard is it to do this is it really technical or is it just a matter of going into the option on the tuner and selecting 70mm MAF

do you have to do the same thing with the throttle body or is is there no calibration with that

rangergt

11-15-2011, 11:24 PM

I have never done it so I can't tell you what exaclty is involved, I just know it has to be done to run properly and that it can be done with the sct. Hopefully one of the other guys with some experience with this will chime in.

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:38 PM

just curious to get u=your truck runing what did you do send your out...what are you useing for a maf....so i get a 3" tube and get the sensor spot welden on but were do i get the sensor ik JSV said the stock ones are only good for maybe 12psi

derk06dtec

11-15-2011, 11:57 PM

http://www.aemelectronics.com/5-bar-75-psia-map-stainless-steel-sensor-kit-655
http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/fuel-ignition-controller-f-ic-12/

im considering these 2 items

rangergt

11-15-2011, 11:59 PM

My truck has a standalone AEM ems, no maf sensor. It is tuned directly with a laptop. The AEM tuner will be setting up the base tune and then showing/teaching me the program and I will tune it myself afterwards. I haven't looked into the sensor itself so I'm not sure.

rangergt

11-16-2011, 12:03 AM

derk06dtec

11-16-2011, 12:12 AM

they said it was compatible and necassary????:) because 400hp worth of one wheel wonders is necassary :)

rangergt

11-16-2011, 08:57 AM

Handeld is usually used to load the original tune from the truck to the handheld, then from handheld to PC/laptop whichever you want to use. If you want to have full control over the ecu then yeah you're going to have to buy the software with it. Then you modify your settings on your software and load the tune to the handheld then to the truck.

Truck ecu--->handheld tuner(sct, sniper)--->PC--->modify with software--->back to the handheld---> and to the truck ecus

from jsv578, with the ProRacer sw (advanceIII) you will be able to do EVERY THING it is possible to do with your stock ECU

These guys already siad what you need to do and like I said if you just want it tuned you contact a company like fswerks and they will make the tune for your setup to download.

derk06dtec

11-16-2011, 10:24 AM

ik they said the software im just thinking about making this a very long project do things slow and do them right and lurn a lot on the way there would be a lot of learning with a stand alone well proabably more frustrations then anything but i will look into the software thanks i do have a local sct tuner that is said to be amazing with just about any tuner so i may be able to just buy the handheld and let them tune it

rangergt

11-16-2011, 08:27 PM

That's a reality for most people, building there machine up as time and money permit. The problem is most people are short sighted and usually don't see past the next step (I'm guilty of this in the past as well), so it's good your thinking long term. I'll tell you I would have paid for my house 2-3 times over with the money I've spent on my truck since I've owned it.

You need to draw up your plan and stick to it, every time you change it it cost you money.

derk06dtec

11-16-2011, 11:31 PM

thats exactly what im trying to do could not agree more on the enitre post u just said im gonna just do things right the first time ik what i want and how i want it to look so im going make a parts list i think im about half way done then i will post it and ask for comments on brands i chose better options and opinions then once i get everything set im going take all the parts cost and i all ready asked a local machinest how much it would cost to get it decked and gone through so ill add up all the cost i can think of then add about 3,000-4000 to that final cost and i will start the project when the funds are there order all the parts and go step by step it may take me 2-3 years to build im not sure it depends but it will be done right....but im in no rush because i think many dont realize or see that half the fun is in the planning and building of the project ik i want to do a custom manifold my idea is to make the turbo sit really high up so about half of the turbo is sticking out of the hood along with the airfilter i think that would be awsome and thats what i want ik all ready how i want the exhaust and everything just need some more funds at this point and ive thought about trying to make this thing have A/C but now i went into this mode of DELETE everything so just about everything on the left side of the truck engine bay will be gone...thx for all your help guys

derk06dtec

11-16-2011, 11:38 PM

Also ive been doing a lot of research on adjustbale cam gears and tuneing basics and so forth and its all making a lot of sense especially cams ive done more reasearch and really starting to understand everything the only thing left that i dont really understand that i can think of is the measureing the crank and rod bearings i did some reading and understand why some people may want more bearing clearance and why some have less bearing clearance but i dont understand how i determine what i need for my setup and once you now what u need for clearance how do you go about getting that clearance so say i measure the clearance of a bearing and it not enough clearance and i need more how do i get more clearance...other then that i think id be able to asemble and engine pretty easy

derk06dtec

11-17-2011, 01:16 AM

i think i my head hurts from trying to think of all of this but here goes nothen

please comment :)

Eagle rods $300
Wiseco pistons $530 K628M88
Crane Cams 224-0014 $400
Supertech intake/exhaust valves $300
Supertech Valve springs/Ti retainers $400
CFM cam gears $250
ARP cam bolts $23
Cometic head gasket $99.99 C5842-018
Exhaust gasket $17.95
ARP main stud kit $100 151-5405
ARP head stud kit $162.95
jegs rod bolt stretch gauge $69.99
Crankshaft bolt $9.95
Clevite bearings for rods $63.96
Cosworth Main bearings $139
Cosworth 8mm timing chain $49
Cosworth chain guide $39
Cosworth flywheel bolt set $45
Cosworth Cam friction washer x2 $48
New oil pump $269
Cosworth Weber intake $260
Custom intake made by me $250 ???
CFM 67mm billet Throttle Body $249.95
Garrett GTX3071R $1400
SCT+ADVTG III $728
VMP Blow-through 75MM MAF housing and HPX MAF sensor $299
JGS Stage 1 $131.99
JGS TK049- T3 5-bolt flange $31.50
Aeromotive Regulator A1000 $181.31
Aeromotive fuel filter $85
Walbro 255 in tank x2 $160
Russle -AN lines/fitting $600
intercooler kit $400
Clutchnet stage 4 clutch $512
Tial Q BOV $225
Tial F46 WG $450
Injector dynamics ID1000 x4 $480
Exhaust tubing $300
QTP cutout $215
Air filter $60
OEM o2 sensors $60
AEM wideband $185
AEM GUAGES
oil pressure $185
Fuel pressure $160
AEM Tru boost controller/gauge $299
Oil temp $160
Water Temp $160

:) 11,475

rangergt

11-21-2011, 01:14 PM

Nothing wrong with your list other than alot of parts are not necessary if you want to keep a more reasonable budget. One thing, you could use an internally gated turbo which would simplify the setup as well as save $$. I`m not saying you should I`m just trying to point out potential saving.

I understand using eagle rods they fit the budget (I like carrillos:D), CP pistons makes a great piston as well for basically the same price as wiseco, just sharing options. You can keep stock valves as well.

derk06dtec

11-21-2011, 09:31 PM

ok the valves was one thing i was wondering about i will run stock i didnt now...hmm i do want external waste, i will look into carrillos i love them 2 but my wallet doesnt and for the HP rating i want, eagles just are hard to beat and i do plan on trying to get 500-600 down the line all depends...ive always used wiseco pistons and i herd that CP's rings were bad but i dont see how thats possible...i also remember asking about the blue colored block off plate JSV had purchased and i beleive you said it was for emissions or somthing....is it used to make it easier to pass emissions or what cuz i dont need emissons anything on my truck they dont require testing were i live and i beleive i read that it allows the use of a catch can ive never entirely understud what a catch can is used for and why its need or sugested its a noob question but it just one of those things i dont now

jsv578

11-22-2011, 06:57 PM

Rangergt also have the breather block off plate from Cosworth and like he said, it's not necessary. just bloc the pcvalve on it or use one for turbo app.
bloc the pcvavle or use the block off plate is just easier and transfer all the crank breather needs on the port on the top of the cam. the EGR tube and this hose are what make a pita to remove the stock intake. since you're planning to built a new one it's possibly not a problem for you.
the need of breathing of your engine and the use of a catch can is easy to find any where on the net. The can and the filter are combine to remove the need of a pcvavle that can be a problem whit turbo and the can catch the oil vapour.

rangergt

11-25-2011, 03:58 PM

what he said^^

I wasn't trying to sway you to carrillos. I understand they don't fit everyones budget and i'm sure you'll be fine with eagles but if you outside your original goals you might want carrillos.

derk06dtec

11-25-2011, 11:39 PM

no no i understand but i agree i think even if i consider going more then 400 i talked to some friends today and they all agree to just go with carrillos...once i hopefully feel 400 i wont want more but even if i think about doing it i might as well itll just less expensive in the long run not to have to tare down the motor and put them in later...the only thing i see in my way is will the stock crank hold more then 400 as i think youve said before in ur threads that no one really nows and im not willing to find out so i dont see going past 400 unless i get the cosworth crank and man thats a lot of $$ pluss i think 600 would be pointless with an open diff ok so get a differnt rear end and do lsd thats solves traction but then that puts the weak link on the tranny my enitire point of useing the stock open diff is to make the weak link the tires and not the tranny or rearend and ik with 400 traction will be a major issue so why 600 to many decisions

id like to add this still doing research on mafs

Pro-M 3" pro tube MAF $314 ((((9 point transfer sheet included)))) <-- can anyone explain what this means??

jsv578

11-26-2011, 11:04 PM

this is what I found for your MAF questions.
with a 05+ ford slot style MAF in a 3" pipe, will support 300-750RWHP
3.5" 750-900RWHP
4" 1000+RWHP
4.5" 1000+RWHP
a lot of writing on this, mostly mustang guy.
for all your WHP option, the 3" pipe will do
so you don't need to go with the Pro-M kit, just keep your stock one and by a pipe like this
http://www.vmptuning.com/store/images/products/secondary/17.jpg
for real cheap on Ebay

and for the transfer table coming with the Pro-M
when you order your Pro-racer package from SCT it give you access to a lot of resource, including all the table you will need for the slot style MAF.
so you will be able to remap the scaling with the SCT forum to your application. and by this it only mean to all what turbo steve explain so well
http://www.turborangerforums.com/showthread.php?t=4053

derk06dtec

11-26-2011, 11:37 PM

wow that realy really helped i now get it but the write up you sent me raised yet another question when it states that the stock ECU nows what the volume of the STOCK intake manifold is but if i make a custom manifold what happens then?? do i just proceed on tuneing the maf as he describes

also what he describes is looking at your AFR to tune the maf but if your useing the AFR to tune the maf arent you supposed to chnage the fuel tables to get the desired AFR that just sounds like there going against each other how do i explain this.....say i tune the maf so the AFR are about right and i say yup the MAF is pretty much tuned then i go and change my fuel tables because i need more fuel with more boost which will in change make my AFR more rich but then my MAF must not be working because it shouldnt bee so rich do you get what im saying how they go against each other i dont see how you tune a MAF based on your AFR

derk06dtec

12-01-2011, 01:09 AM

Saw in another thread that he nitride hardend his crank what benefit does this add?

Ron83ranger

12-01-2011, 06:13 PM

your maf transfer curve tells the ecu how much air your using and the ecu then converts that to a load number and then decides the injector pulsewidth. if the curve is off for your particular setup, your ecu will never know exactly how long the injectors should pulse for. which can be bad at high loads. your base fuel table is tuned according to the VE of your engines needs. usually easy to do for most setups. above a load of 100%(which turbo motors do easily) you want a richer fuel mixture than say at 75%. say at 75-80% load(about maximum for a N/A motor) you can use a mixture of 13.0:1 afr, but at 125% load(in boost) you would want something like 11.5:1 afr. your base fuel table normally is setup with load vs rpm, so its kinda easy to fill out initially.

to use the afr for tuning the maf you have to datalog a few runs. then compare what your actually using for airflow(normally in kg/hr) and maf voltage to what the maf transfer curve dictates it should be and the voltage associated to that airflow.

heres a write up of tuning the maf but simplified.
http://www.turborangerforums.com/showthread.php?t=349

rangergt

12-02-2011, 09:45 AM

Saw in another thread that he nitride hardend his crank what benefit does this add?

It's a process for surface hardening the crankshaft but it's not for cast iron crankshafts, so it'll have no benefit on your ranger crank.

derk06dtec

12-02-2011, 07:23 PM

Ohh ok just checken because I'd consider it I'm kind of worried that some people have pushed and have achieved 400hp with the stock crank now like u said rangergt no one has gone much further but for how long can the crank hold 400 I suppose if u don't now how much the crank can hold its hard to say what the limits are and how long it'll last

rangergt

12-03-2011, 06:11 PM

FSwerks is making 439 whp using a stock 2.3 crankshaft and are beating it up on road courses (which is harder on an engine than drag racing). This info came directy from them so it's not guessing or speculation, it's fact. You'll have no worries.

derk06dtec

12-03-2011, 10:46 PM

I have no worries then sweet not only no worries but I'm set to beat the crap out of it

on second note something has been happening for a while when i come to a stop some times, clutch fully engaged when I try to put it in first as I'm coming to a stop it will act like it's slightly grinding into gear not a harsh real grind but as if the clutch is not fully opening or maybe it is but still kind of hooking a little bit im not sure this happens maybe once a month and noramlly i drive and dont push the clutch all the way to the floor and it never does it but some times it does it randomly and IM POSITIVE the clutch is being pushed in....i have no idea how many miles are on the clutch it doesnt grab tell the very end it doesnt grab harshly it isnt jerky but under full power even dropping the clutch it lites the tires right up so ik its still grabing but anyway just thought there might be a common problem if anybody nows anything...this also raises the question of what are some optional trannys for these trucks and is it pretty hard to do and tranny conversion

rangergt

12-05-2011, 12:48 PM

The problem your describing I don`t think is too uncommon, especailly with higher miles. My truck has been like that since brand new, I haven`t been inside one of these tranmissions but I would guess one of the shift rails is just catching a little. The T5 was notorious for this with first or reverse been a while I can`t remember. When I had one in the GT I just put it into another gear then back to first and it was fine

derk06dtec

12-05-2011, 08:42 PM

yeah it doesnt happen offten and when it does i do the same thing i put it in second then back to forst which is fine

on other thoughts though is there other tranny options that i could do

doing a different tranny from what ive herd can 1 be expensive and hard to get everything to fit right and getting it to work electronic wise if i were to go to an auto would be tuff

derk06dtec

01-17-2012, 01:01 PM

I've been doing more and more research and my parts list is pretty much set only thing I'm having trouble with now is getting an exhaust manifold made that will fit well right now just trying to find someone with the skill to do it. I want about 1/2 of the turbo sticking out of the hood it'll probably help keep it nice and cool and it will look awesome on a totally stock ranger i will then make my own hood scoop for it out of carbon fiber. then i plan on making a simple adjustable bar that will bolt to the turbo then to the A/C bracket which should help keep the mani from cracking , I've some what figured out deleting the A/C shouldn't be to hard...im not sure how to make an intake mani i have no idea of any locals that could do this....the only other thing i havnt figured out is someone who can machine my motor deck it, hone it, check it over all that jaz and while he's doing that he might as well build my motor :) don't feel like taking any risks..other then that i still am not sure about fuel stuff but ik if i have any troubles DB a local performance shop can help sense there GODS at tuning there very well known here in MN as the best and they will be tuning the truck so I'm sure they can help... i would like them to do my mani and stuff but they don't fabricate there more of a bolt on/EXTREMELY good tuning place

jsv578

01-17-2012, 02:00 PM

for the intake mainfold you can go with the diy budget intake that Rangergt work on or wait to see what GP-Werks are going to release ;)
if it fit in a good price range it could be a easie option to replace the stock plastic intake.
if you don't plan to over size the bore, the homemade honing give a good result for me. But I would not recomande to over size with hand tool at all.
and for the fuel system, if you read my built it is the easiest mod to now that I have done to this truck, 1 weld bung 2 connectors from the rail to the FPR, another 2 connectors from FPR to your Vapour line, 5/16 quick connect adaptor to -AN fitting and like 5' of hose. And for sure a new Ford Explorer fuel filter(2004-2010).

are you planning to put a 2.3 head on the beast?

derk06dtec

01-17-2012, 03:22 PM

it is a 2.3L ranger but as i keep seeing and hearing your talking about putting a 2.3l focus head on it correct? if thats the case then no i plan on stock head that will be bead blasted and re machined and gone through, new valve springs, and crane cams with adjustable cam gears...there will be enough money spent on getting good parts like a good turbo good fittings and such... not to mention the cost of trying to get someone to make me a exhaust manifold the way i want it...there is a guy here i just found out thats i guess a god at building motors and as far as i was told 300 to have the block dunked machined and gone through and 200-300 to build the motor he also will balance the crank i don't think thats to bad at all please let me now....i was told by my buddy who's having his drag 4G63 motor built by him and he said he's pretty sure he could do a duratec as well...if I'm not mistaken he has a over 1,800 motor builds and counting over the last 20-30 years

the vapor line OHHH now i get it you had tried to explain it before and my buddy also was very confused what line you were talking about now i get it thank you yeah ill do that sounds simple. i plan on a large after market filter instead of the explorer filter.
the vapor line just runs fumes to the intake mani doesn't it for emissions??? or is it just a breather for the fuel tank so you don't get any vapor lock??? and in either case you start running fuel through it were does the tank vent from if you use those lines??

also speaking of return fuel system will this mess with the in tank fuel pump??? i planned on running 2 of the 255 walbro in tank fuel pumps but i never thought of how I'm going to hook them up or how I'm going to mount them in the tank is an in line fuel pump easier??

Also i went on GP-werks site I've never herd of them but any way were did you hear that they might do a ranger intake manifold i couldn't find anything regarding that??

jsv578

01-17-2012, 08:15 PM

all the work you're planning on your stock (2.0l) head will probably be more expensive than find a 2.3l head with the same cam you already planning. the 2.3l over flow by 17% the 2.0l head :D pretty interesting no!?

and for the fuel, yes i know it's not common in a system, some car use a loop feedback or mechanical fpr, your case. and in those system you can find fpr in line with the pump in the tank, in the fuel filter (so some time the third port of the fuel filter is for a FPR) and you can find one like us, 3 ports fuel filter but the FPR is in line with the "vapour" port (this is how it's call on the part list)...etc

we will never say it enough, read read read lol
when I'm not working on my truck I read about it or general system info.

for the GP-werks.. I never say it was on there site :P
after a read of a beta intake they were building I ask them for a release date and if there were a option for rwd... and YES!!! but it is still in progress.
but it is hard to believe that it will be less expensive than the budget one of Rangergt

just read your re-edit, why go with 2 pumps?

derk06dtec

01-17-2012, 09:58 PM

i thought maybe i would need 2 fuel pumps but after seeing how easy it is to put one in i won't have any trouble and 1 should do and if i ever need more i can use an inline later thx for the info

as for the 2.3l head I'm going to stick with the 2.0l it should be fine with cams for 400whp

only problem i see with the budget intake manifold rangergt is building is it will have a problem clearing the brake fluid holder and brake booster i know i don't have much room on the side and would love not to have to relocate

derk06dtec

01-18-2012, 10:08 AM

wow things are really making sense i figured out the fuel system by READING hahah amazing what it does... i dont really have many more questions all i have to do is get the rest of the money together and the build will start.... just wanted to thank you guys for all your help right now just kind of learning about different products and refining my parts list...i will start a new thread when the build starts...

my new turbo i found which will be much cheaper any thoughts

precision 5454E MFS

rangergt

01-24-2012, 09:58 AM

If your going to get engine machine work done (which it should have done) you have to find a competent shop that you trust to complete the job properly, may take some looking around.

If you can pick up 2.3(focus head) for a good deal it would be worth the investment but yes a stock ranger head will still get you to 400hp.

When I get to completing my DIY budget intake it will fit in the stock engine compartment.

If your ss header is welded correctly and the weight is supported properly you should have know issues with cracking.

motochip

02-16-2012, 11:32 AM

hey everyone, new to this forum. was reading this thread since i am interested in one day turboing. has anyone thought about running the turbo between the engine and rad about halfway up. i saw a hole that some exhaust can be ran between the altenator and frame. basically do a 180 off of the stock exhasut manifold. might be better than putting turbo in the back of the truck. enjoy this thread. very informative.

rangergt

02-16-2012, 11:35 AM

Welcome to the forums. I have never thought of that, I'll have to look now lol.

derk06dtec

03-03-2012, 03:19 AM

went to the machine shop today i talked about earlier in the thread. i asked him if he would be able to do a duratec 2.3 motor he said yeah i can do one its pretty much the same for every type of motor and I've done several thousand not to mention ones with over 1000hp. so i guess i found a machine shop to machine and build the short block he's VERY VERY well known in the DSM crowd he's done to many I4 4G63 motors to count. the only thing he said about the duratec is he could do the head as well but i would have to put the head on and do the timing no big deal. we then got into the discussion about the head and how it can be expensive buying new buckets to get the lash into spec if it is out. he said once that is taken care of its a very good system he said buckets are awesome just hard to get in spec and costly so he said usually he just trims the end of the valve to get the buckets lash in spec that is were i ask the question whats your guys opinion on trimming the valve stem a little to get the lash in spec??? or is buying new buckets that will put it in spec the better option??

jsv578

03-03-2012, 09:36 AM

???hard to get in spec?
buy the mazda bucket, cheaper and with a friction coating. like 10$ per bucket.
since you're suppose to check the clearance when the head is bolt to the bloc with the final spec, i would not recommend to trim anything. why let some metal dust on your freshly clean engine?
for sure if you use reusable arp bolt and your old gasket, you could have fun and do all the procedure a few time:shocked:
lol
seriously, it is simple, put your crank 90° after TDC, use a lot of assembling lube and a 45° feller gauge. keep everything clean and you're done in a 1-2 hour job.(ok it will take 2-3 days because you won't have the right bucket and have to order it:hehe: )

derk06dtec

03-03-2012, 11:48 AM

well see thats what i thought i was like hmm i don't see the point trimming a valve. i told him i swore a guy on the forums said he got the right buckets for really cheap and i was right 10$ is cheap. i will remember that for the future thanks jsv. he's a very good engine builder he gets almost all of the machine work for the entire twin cities area in Minnesota. he's done a lot of motors but only done 2 duratec heads, thats it so not much has gone through his shop in terms of duratecs. now you say the mazda ones work and have the coatings BUT have you thought of the option to use the super tech ones that you can adjust the shims on. i say this because i remember reading some were in the forums a guy with a mazda that used them but i don't now how much they would cost probably a lot. but i guess whats the point when the mazda ones are only 10$ AND coated.

rangergt

03-03-2012, 12:33 PM

Yeah I agree with JS. I not trying to say anything bad about your engine builder but I would not trim the top of the valve, to me it's just unneccassary. it's really easy to measure up for the proper buckets it's just time consuming but not any more than trimming the valves would be.

I have a large collection of bucket now (almost every size) I just measure them up then change them out as required then remeasure. Then I get what I need. Some people reuse the buckets, I went and got all brand new ones the proper size, at $10 each it's not bad.

LIke JS said go to the mazda dealer not ford.

derk06dtec

03-03-2012, 12:37 PM

k so i will go to the mazda dealer for sure them and i like the idea of getting all new they don't cost that much.

any thoughts on the super tech adjustable ones?

and if the motor does end up around 400whp or more will that put more stress on them causing them to ware fast and having to change them out or re spec them say every 10,000 miles??

derk06dtec

03-03-2012, 12:38 PM

k so i will go to the mazda dealer for sure then, and i like the idea of getting all new they don't cost that much.

any thoughts on the super tech adjustable ones?

and if the motor does end up around 400whp or more will that put more stress on them causing them to ware fast and having to change them out or re spec them say every 10,000 miles??

TIMMA

03-03-2012, 03:13 PM

When you guys measure valve lash, do you point the tip of the cam lobes 180* away from the lifter bucket? I think I remember the ford procedure not being super clear. I get *slightly* different results on my lash measurements when I do it that way versus somewhere else on the base circle of the cam. Not sure if that is a result of the base circle not being 100% perfect or if it the cam flexing slightly due to what is happening on the adjacent cylinder(s).

I cheaped out on mine and ground down some of the nubs inside the lifter buckets. I did this using a flat ended cylindrical grinding stone in a drill press. I then check the nub for thickness and flatness with a dial indicator. It is a painstaking process, but it seemed better than grinding the tops of the valves. I'm not sure I would really recommend it though.

derk06dtec

03-03-2012, 05:14 PM

ahh i see what you did i would have never thought of that at all but like wise it seems easier just to buy the right ones especially at 10$ a piece why not. And thanks to Jsv finding out the mazda ones are coated thats a bonus.

rangergt

03-04-2012, 01:11 PM

Not all buckets are coated, I've gotten some coated and some that aren't in the same order from the Mazda dealer, don't know why.

When you guys measure valve lash, do you point the tip of the cam lobes 180* away from the lifter bucket? I think I remember the ford procedure not being super clear. I get *slightly* different results on my lash measurements when I do it that way versus somewhere else on the base circle of the cam. Not sure if that is a result of the base circle not being 100% perfect or if it the cam flexing slightly due to what is happening on the adjacent cylinder(s).

I cheaped out on mine and ground down some of the nubs inside the lifter buckets. I did this using a flat ended cylindrical grinding stone in a drill press. I then check the nub for thickness and flatness with a dial indicator. It is a painstaking process, but it seemed better than grinding the tops of the valves. I'm not sure I would really recommend it though.

JS mentioned to use a feeler gauge with a 45* bend on the end and that's a good idea because you could get inaccurate reading using straight feeler gauges since you'd have to flex them a little to get them in. I used straight feeler gauges but was very carefull to get an accurate reading but to make things a little easier I'll get some 45* feeler gauges. I check the lash with the cam lobe 180* to the bucket to ensure that it's on the base circle.

That sounds like a time consuming process to fit up the buckets and then the number won't correspond to the actual spec number of the bucket anymore. That could be a cause of some future confusion if removing or reuseing those buckets again.

derk06dtec

03-21-2012, 12:38 AM

Ik rangergt made his own plate but does anyone make decent adapter plates for the duratec so you can put different tranny on them... for example the TKO-500/600 or a t-56 magnum... can anyone go into a little detail as to what the different bolt patterns are called ??

rangergt

03-21-2012, 08:54 AM

Adapter plates, no. Quads 4 Rods (http://quad4rods.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=100041)make a bellhousing the allows you to put a tremec or t5 behind the duratec though.

derk06dtec

03-23-2012, 06:49 PM

rangergt I've been talking with my buddy and he agreed that even though my original goals were 400WHP the second i read your post in the aftermarket dtec rods thread i started to think beyond NOW. i don't want to do eagle rods any more just because i started to think Ahead and can see wanting more like every other person that gets addicted to power. we both (me and my friend who's gonna help with the build) agree that 600WHP would be the END goal and maybe not more of a goal but more of a limit to what the truck can handle without slicks and among many other large modifications to get traction. I'm not willing to tub out the fenders to put some big giant meats on id rather keep in as stock looking as possible .

Now my question i know this is uncharted territory but whats your opinion on what is needed for internals.

will production Carillo H rods and cp pistons do the trick for 600WHP more like 650-675crank HP

At what point do you think sleeves need to be put in?

^^^^what scares me is hearing and seeing that i believe that duratec over in europe that cracked the block at i think 600hp

rangergt

03-24-2012, 09:16 AM

What do you need for internals that's a loaded question since like you said it's uncharted territory in a 2.3. There was a focus from Venezuela with a surpising amount of stock parts the made 600whp with a 2.0. Now what is the durablitiy of it at this power level, I don't know. The 2.0 crank having a shorter stroke (so less offset of the journals) is said to be a little stronger than the 2.3. So will a 2.3 crank be OK? I don't know. It might last 10 runs or just blow up or be completely fine, I can't really say. I'm sure you don't want to experiment. The mazdaspeed 3 has a forged crank but it also uses a larger rod journal diameter. So you can go custom or just use what's listed by CP Carrillo.

I'm sure the standard H beams would be fine.

As for sleeves, I'm not convinced that I even need them but my block was junk otherwise.

That engine had a lot of modifications that may have seamed like a good idea but it's also why it may have cracked.