Bringing her back from the dead...

[Tr00b]

Hello, some of you know me from RPS, some of you dont. I saw JessWarren's ranger on Youtube in about late 2006-2007 and I have not stopped wanting to turbo my Ranger since!!! Course you hear stories like this every day. Life hasn't been easy on me in alot of ways so I am not very wealthy so alot of years have passed not being able to do a darn thing towards this goal.

My truck has been through hell, I couldn't figure out why it ran bad for two years and I discovered a blown head gasket. So, thinking the rest of the truck was solid, I replaced that gasket this summer. Since then, it has eaten most of the suspension (rear leaf hangers, bushings all around and broken front coils.) Also the clutch is going out (throwout bearing, but might as well do it all). Then, what do you know, the exhaust fell off! The rear axle has also puked the seals an by this time, the brakes are probably junk from the diff lube. All this stuff is normal wear and tear for a 150k truck... It still drives ok but I keep it local and take it easy.

Bought a 3.73 Ranger (28 spline) open diff 8.8 a few years ago.. But I am thinking about just going after an FX4 axle to save on a locker and rear disc conversion. Also I have a spare 2.5 engine for the turbo build later, waiting patiently in the garage.

My goal for a turbo project is mostly daily driver friendly. I want V8ish power with good fuel economy. 250 would be great. If I can whump my brother in law's 2008 4.0 Ranger or give a ricer or two a run for their money, then I am happy. What I am trying to do is "prepare" for a turbo engine to be dropped in, and drive the truck meanwhile with the "performance" parts. I need a solid DD for the time being. The rear diff MUST lock... I live in the country and my driveway is what most people consider 4wd territory. Also, I have almost sold the truck a bunch of times because it gets stuck in the stupidest places. This will be a stock suspension truck on stock sized (or perhaps larger) tires.

What is a good price to pay for an FX4 axle? Any pointers? Or is it worth it to build up my 28 spline with a superior locker?

Should I replace the leaf springs??? Visually, there is nothing wrong with them but I have a line on some BRAND NEW ones plus rear spring hangers, for cheap, around $100.

What is a good performance clutch to go after?

[D94R]

The rear diff MUST lock.

Either I'm confused, or you are.

You haven't mentioned a specific locker in your axle choices. The FX4 axles use a geared form of a LS. While it might perform better than the standard clutch pack style LS, it's far from a locker.

So, do you want it to LOCK, or just grab both wheels on loose stuff?

If you want a heavy duty rear, with disk brakes already, and the stronger axles, why not get a Exploder axle and put a locker in it? Put new leaf spring pads on it and have what you want at a fraction of what a rare(ish) FX4 axle would cost?

I personally see no point in building a 28 spline axle. If you are going to sink money into your existing one, or a secondary one, then why not poney up a couple extra hundred bucks and buy a beefier axle and avoid all worries?

[Tr00b]

An l/s would probably be fine. My understanding was that the torsen style was much better than the clutch pack type.

I have read about this stuff for years because I need/want it but haven't been able to afford it or even drive a locked vehicle.

So not sure what I need but stuck on flat ground with one wheel spinning happens way too often.

[D94R]

Ahh. I see. Yes, the torsen units are rather nice.

Better than standard LS? Debatable, until the clutches wear in the regular LS. But then again, the stock Ford LS carriers can be built stupid tight to give you the most grip from the clutches as possible.

Is this mainly street, or off road? I have my own opinions on what I'd use, but don't want to go into it without knowing your goals.

[beluga420]

For the clutch I heard some good things about the Spec clutches. I am running the stage 3+, seems to hold fine for now. I donn't think you would have any problem with stage 3 at 250 whp.. 3+ is a little hard for street but still drives good.


My goal for a turbo project is mostly daily driver friendly. I want V8ish power with good fuel economy. 250 would be great. If I can whump my brother in law's 2008 4.0 Ranger or give a ricer or two a run for their money, then I am happy.

Don't even have to worry about this, with 250 hp you will be well ahead the 4.0 ranger!:hehe: I have a friend that has a 2002 4.0 with K&N CAI and dual flowmaster(magnaflow?not sure)catback exhaust that always told me nahh you'll never pass me with that 2.3, its impossible.

Raced agaisnt him last time, from 0 to 160 roll we both were equal, side to side all long, it was rainy and I didnt have traction on start.. From a 40 kmh roll I had whell spin in both 2nd and 3rd and I ended up like 1 truck lenght ahead....
And this was only on 4psi of boost, I have no idea how much hp my truck has tho. So you're going to whump him for sure :peelout:

[Tr00b]

D94R

It will be mostly street and commuting and some farm/offroad duty.The offroad part is not AS important, but for now is a consideration.

If a true locker or a Truetrac Locker/FX4 Torsen locker (even say a Detroit Locker) a is going to make it WAY better offroad, the Jeep might get put away for most of the time. I have a 1997 Wrangler 2.5 on 31" mud terrains for the ugly stuff. I don't like driving it that much and it gets anywhere from 5 to 12mpg worse than my truck. I'd much prefer to make the Ranger capable enough to replace it of the 75% of the time I don't need the 4wd. Such as, haul wood, pull the 4x8 trailer and even get out of my driveway in the winter... etc.

I'd also like to have good hookup on the street to keep the tires planted IE go instead of sit and spin. Eventually, this will be a lowered street truck. Just not right away.

Beluga:

Looking at your specs, you have quite a few motor mods that would probably put an N/A Lima up on a 4.0's butt. Good to hear though! Where did you get the Spec clutch? What kind of clutches are most people running? What do you mean by "hard" for street?

My original plan back in the day was to spend all the cash and make the bottom end stout/new as possible then just change out top end components/turbo as I upgraded... But just building up off of used T/C rods and pistons and a 2.3 crank (and not doing an overbore on the spare motor) should be fine. If I ever get more ambitious, then we can just spend $50 on another block...

[jfive]

JFYI a mini spool is like 100.00 and will hold up to 500hp in any driving conditions I see you throwing at it. Helped a friend put one in a 8.5 gm rear for a stock car with 400hp constantly making high speed inside corners. Held up for three years that I know of, and probubly more if its still racing. Clutch style clutches will hold up fine to what power most of us would throw at it. If we where talking about over 500hp and longevity, I would say no. Welcome to here, and hope the truck sees a bright future going fast.

[Tr00b]

Would a spool be okay for street??? Mostly what it will be used for. It would be worth a shot in the 28 spline rear I have sitting around, Hmm...

What do you mean by clutch style clutches? A stock clutch? They are way cheaper :)

For now, I'm just getting the Ranger streetable and ready for more balls.

And thanks for the welcome!

[beluga420]

I've got my clutch from an amazon seller, their website is http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/

It seems like almost everybody here run different clutch setups, some bought ebay clutches some run HD 3.0 clutch, etc.

By hard on the street I mean, it's driving relatively good, but when into traffic, it's a little harder to always stop-start, it isn't smooth at all compared to my stock clutch of my black truck, specially when I make it 'slip' going reverse, it just bumps hard lol. It's still really streetable.

[jfive]

I guess it depends on how you feel about driving with it locked. I have a truck that I drove around with for three years with the rear locked up solid, and it makes a little tire noise on tight corners, like 4 way stops, but for the most part, you just need to go easy around corners, if you don't want to go sideways(after you have it suped up).

[Tr00b]

Jfive:

What about snow/rain? I suppose it makes it even scarier?

I have the balls because only tossing $100 at to lock up an axle I feel I wasted my money on (the 28spline 3.73 Ranger axle) seems like a great idea, but I'd rather not die. My commute to work is about 30 minutes of sweeping corners and etc. Would I be able to just take it easy (which I usually do anyway) or would it be a hazard?

Beluga:

Not bad at $440 shipped. Did yours come with all the bearings etc? I'm still gonna shop around a bit, but this looks like what I was expecting to put in.

[jfive]

To be honest, when its icy any form of posi is gonna make both tires spin. I drove mine in the rain all the time. That would have to be my favorite time to have it locked as the tires don't seam to mind the corners when its wet, also when you want to have a little fun wet tires break free easier so you don't have to floor it and attract a bunch of attention. I would update your sig, or user info to show where you are located so people can accurately advise you on things. I know people that have drove 2wd pickups in the winter with some sort of posi device, and you have bad and good from it. Bad is being on slants with really bad black ice, makes it almost impossible to not let the back end slide, but in snow with weight, it can make it be like 4wd(not really but better than one tire). I would advise a cheap honda fwd to go to and from work in the winter, other than that, heres a link to a good minispool. http://www.amazon.com/Richmond-Gear-7888281-Spool-Ford-Steel/dp/B000MIP9FG

[fordnut71]

the only way i would install a spool or mini spool would be having a full floating or semi floating axles. on a c clip axle if the axle breaks out it comes an good by wheel while you are spun out of control. the factory traction loc an torson lock make it able for a rear end to have different arcs of travel.

[Tr00b]

Ooh thats right. Good ol c-clips... Would have to get a c clip eliminator kit with that spool.

Man there is just no easy/cheap way to do this. I am still kicking myself for passing up an fx4 bone...

[fordnut71]

ya this the reason y the explorer rear an traction loc is used.
if you use the ranger 8.8 you can use mustang parts except the axles they are different lengths.so gears,traction loc, c clip eliminator kits an disk brakes can be bolted in.

[Tr00b]

Jfive... On getting a cheap Honda to commute with, yea, thats a great idea but a cheap Honda would detract more money from my Ranger, which runs fine and gets all in all liveable fuel mileage. And I know about the disadvantages of lockers/LS's... I have been shopping since 2006. Everyone said a spool was total madness, so I had discounted it.... I am also 6'9" tall and only just fit in a Ranger, my knee hits the turn signal if I get rowdy with the clutch.

Fordnut, I am aware that Mustang stuff is interchangable. Its never been cheaper though :(

I don't want to spend more than $1000 less is better, to get a clutch and two wheel peel.

My options are:

Put a used Lock Right and axle seals in my 7.5. (about $350). Sell the axle later for something better

Take my 28 spline 8.8, a C-clip eliminator kit (175.00) l http://completeoffroad.com/i-123649-ford-8-8-c-clip-eliminator-svom4220a.html a mini spool (84.00) (http://completeoffroad.com/i-362301-mini-spool-8-8-28-spline.html and maybe throw some axle seals in it. I actually know someone who works here and can go pick up the parts lol... I totally forgot until I saw the logo, derrrr.... I am going to see if they have any deals on a returned 8.8 autolocker/ls...

Go find an expo axle and fight with the mounts trying to keep stock ride height. (200-500)

Go find an FX4 axle. (500 plus)

[dangeranger93]

just a note about mini spools the only part of the diff taking all the power is the pin and it can sheer if you like launching and getting rowdy, most of our trucks wont kill one but its something to think about

[jfive]

I know of a few guys that have picked up cheap!!!! honda's and fuel savings alone pay the car off in no time. Also the ford fiestas/festivas however you spell em, get great mileage and can be really cheap. I mean with a 30 mile commute and over 30mpg it don't take long with todays fuel prices to make extra funds for the ranger build. Main thing is that you have an extra parking space for the extra vehicle. Sit down with a calculator for a minute or two and see what you find in three months working 5 days a week. Might surprise ya. Also look at a full spool, or weld it like dangerranger93 did. Think his has been holding up fine, and he is a good person to give advice as he has the weaker 7.5 ranger rear still if not mistaken.

[Tr00b]

Well, Dangerranger... Whats it like to drive full locked on the street??? Btw, I read your whole build thread and I feel like a whining *****. You built your truck from basically nothing. I admire that completely. I'd be in a different place I think if I were more like you. Keep up the good work man!!!

Jfive... I have two vehicles now. A 1997 TJ Wrangler...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/319224_571295228281_66000712_31787487_1011668680_n .jpg

2" spring lift, 31" Cooper SSTs, 2.5 4cyl, Ax5 trans... I really don't like it that much, it sucks driving on the highway because of chronic frontend problems but it has hauled alot of wood... About 25 trailer loads like that this year. Right now I don't drive it above 50 and keep it local because the brakes are gone and a hub bearing is knocking on heavens door...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/CellPhone6262011362.jpg

Then there is my Ranger. And how I killed the spring hanger after I did the headgasket... A little green oak and those bastards pop right off.

A little car would be great but even spending $500 on a car will set me back a whole month, and the fuel expense isn't that big because I carpool. If I can get the Ranger going (and get closer to the turbo goal and the useful truck goal) then I think it can be all copasetic and stuff.

[Cutlass327]

My view on spools/mini-spools.. Not usable on the road as a DD, especially in snow/ice. Just not safe in my eyes, especially in a light-tailed pickup truck. Get the FX rear. Those Torsen style lockers are what are in the SRT4 Neons from the factory - you never know it's there unless you are needing the traction. When it comes time for me to 'lock' my CJ, that's what it is going to get, front and rear. Well, the Detroit Trutracs. Basically the same thing from my understanding. There are some where the internal gears butt against a piece to lock it, and then there are the ones where the gears just transfer the power. I can't remember the names of which is which. You could go selectable locker, like ARB, OX, or the electric ones, but they are more $$..

The Honda idea is good, except for the whole reason he wants the rear locked in his truck - the driveway. Hondas don't have much ground clearance. And not sure on how much snow Scales Mound Ill gets, but anything over a few inches on the road/driveway, and you're not going very far.

It's a shame you don't really enjoy your TJ. I LOVE my CJ, it's my DD. My Ranger just sits there in the car port as a back-up vehicle for my Accord and CJ.. Being you have a TJ, you ever get onto Jeepforum.com? If so, there is always good discussions (At least in the CJ threads) on the pros/cons of spools, welded, lockers, selectable lockers, L/S, open, etc.. That info all pertains to every vehicle, not just Jeeps. And to me, the proper decision on which way to go is more important in a SWB vehicle like a CJ/TJ, where the rear bumper is a lot more likely to chase the front one!

I know there are those out there who will argue all day long that the welded spool is the easiest/cheapest and still safe way to go.. If it was, wouldn't the OEMS offer that in their big fancy 4x4 off-road versions? You know OEMs like the cheapest route, so they'd do it in a heartbeat if it was still safe. They just don't want the warranty issues of broken axles, or the lawsuits from the people when they spun out and totaled their new truck and got seriously hurt. In my opinion, either a Torsen/Trutrac design, a selectable, or an Open rear is the safest in snow/ice. Even an L/S, unless the vehicle is heavy enough to always have the traction to always slip the clutches in all weather, I don't trust them. A locker can be unpredictable, and a spool is just insanity. Maybe in the SW where snow is never seen these other things may be ok, but in the NE, where snow and ice are the norm (3/4 of the year it seems!) for winter, I want the safest, most invisible system out there..

[D94R]

I think, the cheapest way for you to get two wheel peel is to get a stock LS carrier, and pack the clutches tighter than stock. I also hear the Cobra (or maybe F150) 'S' spring is stiffer as well.

My view on the the spool is exactly what Cutlass has said.

Ected makes an interesting LS/Locker. It's LS, till you engage the electric locker. Might be something you are interested in? It's not cheap though.


Me personally, I'm against anything that is locked 100% of the time. And I also prefer to be able to control total lock down of the gears. So I tend to prefer a good LS, or a selectable locker.
For street use, the Ected, or a Torsen style LS would be my go to. For offroad I'll only use ARB.

[dangeranger93]

driving with a full locked rear on the street is really not much different once i hit like 15 mph i cant tell a difference, its really just tight turns and parking lots when you can tell, it does like to get squirelly in the rain and i dont plan on hitting snow anytime soon.
as for welding a 7.5 i recommend not doing it as a perminant sollution im always scared it might break, if you want full lock i recommend an 8.8 and a spool (not mini spool) and if your going to use the truck as a daily driver and drive it every day i would get a l/s just for drivability no need for a spool unless your racing

Oh, and thanks for the compliments on the build, it really has come from nothing

[fordnut71]

how about getting a 4.0l ranger rear an put a mustang traction loc in it.
its all a drop in. rebuild the clutch pack with the cobra clutches or do a +1 job.
this is what i did with my truck.but i also did a gear swap also but thats another story.

[Tr00b]

Thanks all for responding. This is a really tough question and because so many people are all about the engine and the power and not so much about the "traction" it leaves alot of gut feelings and what ifs, and experiences that someone had. There are alot of good ideas that I never got this kind of depth of response after asking this same question for years on other forums. TRS is a VERY good forum!!!

Cutlass: I am on Jeepforum, and I agree... it is a shame I don't like the Jeep more... On Jeepforum you can suck up all the axle knowledge you want, but Jeeps and Jeep people are alot different than DD 2wd trucks, L/S units are not real popular there, while they are very common in the truck world. All the builds/specsheets I can recall are with autolockers or Torsen type units.

DR94: I agree, and if money were more abundant, it would be an automatic choice.

Danger: Thanks for sharing. Hope she holds together!

Fordnut: Started looking into that...

I called my friend Andy who sells differentials for Complete Offroad all day long.

He convinced me not to get the Truetrac diff. His comment was, by the time I wear out a good clutch type L/S in a light vehicle like a Ranger, I'll either be ready to rebuild it, looking for something more, or won't care it acts like an open diff because the vehicle is worn out. It will perform essentially the same as a Torsen throughout the useful lifespan of the clutch packs.. He said that people who go with the Torsen type are offroaders who get tired of changing diff fluid AND adding the L/S additive, which can get expensive. They are also more demanding on the clutch packs and wear them out faster than I will, so a Torsen saves a harder-core offroader money by reducing the number of rebuilds needed. True hardcore offroaders are going to want the full lockup of a TrueTrac, Detroit Locker, and selectable locker, whereas a street driven vehicle is going to benefit with increased tire life, no "chirping" around corners, less rear end noise, and more overall driveability with most of the traction benefits of full lock without the drawbacks of fulltime full lock or an autolocker like a LockRight.

He convinced me not to go after a used Ford L/S carrier or axle. He said most of the ones in axles or that have been pulled from used axles are half worn out and need rebuilding. So you are likely to suffer a rebuild sooner and endure the cost of having to tear it apart to rebuild it. To just install a new carrier/Limited Slip allows you to have more useful traction and lifespan from the work you put into the install, along with the security of knowing the lifespan you can expect from the unit when you install it. The money I would save going the used L/S route would probably be outweighed by the hassle of finding the part, finding out how to rebuild it, finding the parts to do it, rebuilding it, installing it, etc...

He laughed when I mentioned a spool and pretended I didn't say anything even entertaining the idea , like it was a joke.

http://completeoffroad.com/i-2880803-yukon-duragrip-positraction-ford-8-8-28-spline-ydgf8-8-28-1.html

Going to go with this unit which off the shelf is cheaper, stronger and more aggressive than the stock type one from Ford without upgrades.

On that note, I believe my furnace blower just bit the big one... :(

[jfive]

Looks like a good option. Wonder if the 31 spline is the same price. After I tear into mine, that might be what I go with. Don't be haten the spool, or welding. Rock crawling and a light weight ranger on the street have little in common. Hard core offroaders break stuff cause they put crazy amounts of strain doing what they shouldn't with crappy setups, cause they can't afford the right parts.

[Ron83ranger]

that looks like an Auburn unit with the cone clutches. i have the expo. 8.8 and i put in the ford motorsport trac loc rebuild. i even bought the F150 S-spring from ford, which by the way was identical to the explorer one, and 2 years later of DD its still excellent. the ford trac loc has a lot of different ways to set up the clutch packs, so you can tune to how you want it. i left it factory way and its perfect. i also didn't use any friction modifier, just straight Royal Purple synthetic gear oil and its super quiet with no chatter at all, even when i first did the clutches.

when i had my turbo coupe, i changed the clutch orientation so it was more aggressive and tighter, and it definitely was. but, they didnt last very long that way. only about 2yrs of street driving.

[Foolee]

how about getting a 4.0l ranger rear an put a mustang traction loc in it.
its all a drop in. rebuild the clutch pack with the cobra clutches or do a +1 job.
this is what i did with my truck.but i also did a gear swap also but thats another story.

It's not quite a drop in, I did that. The mustang trac-loc's don't have the cut out for the ABS ring that the ranger diffs do.

[D94R]

Tone ring goes on the ring gear, the carrier shouldn't matter.

[Foolee]

The mustang carrier does not have the alignment mark for the ring. The Ranger does, I speak from experience. The gear shop grinded a bump into my trac-loc to install it. if you don't care about the ring its not a problem just leave it off. But if you plan to do a S-10 T5 tailshaft swap then your better off to keep the ring and use it to drive the speedometer like 98-00 rangers and 92+ F-series trucks.

[D94R]

Hrm, I see what you mean by looking at online diagrams. Couldn't the locator tab on the tone ring be removed? Since the ABS is just looking for the teeth, there is no certain index that the tone ring needs to be set at in relation to the carrier. I've never paid that much attention to the 8.8's when I had them apart.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/270038/original/8.8inch.jpg

[D94R]

And, I retract my previous statement. I was wrong. It doesn't really mount to either the ring gear or the carrier like I thought. It's pressed to the carrier riding along the ring gear.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/669988/fullsize/tonering.jpg

[D94R]

I also moved this to General Driveline because the subject is too broad and general.

[Foolee]

It's kinda wedged in between, it has a key way bump to keep it in place. Other that that any 28 spline 8.8 carrier will work in a ranger 8.8. I always wondered if removing that little bit of metal would put the carrier off balance. But I have like 5k on it now and there is no vibrations. The guy at the gear shop said it would be fine. Either way a trac-loc is worth the money, its not as good as a torsen but a hell of a lot better than a open diff...

[Tr00b]

Thanks for the move DR94 very fitting. Good diagrams too..

Thankfully my furnace didn't blow up so looks like I am ordering some parts, but not without asking a few more q's!!!

How much does it actually cost/how hard is it to rebuild a Ford L/S unit??? If everyone is running them, did you just get them by swapping expo axles? I looked on ebay and there were only like two that weren't new. Thats part of the reason I'm gravitating towards just a whole new L/S unit.

Anyone know a good link to step by step on doing a clutch in a Ranger? I was driving it today and something is DEF fubar in there. The throwout bearing is making horrible noises and I think i can feel it hanging up. Gonna stop driving it until the clutch is in at least.

I am looking at the Spec Stage 3 or the Stage 3+. The 3+ is alot more money but I like the idea of being more streetable.

Stage 3+
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/SPEC/Clutch/Clutch_Kits/Domestic_Truck_and_SUV_Stage_3+/9861

Stage 3
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/SPEC/Clutch/Clutch_Kits/Domestic_Truck_and_SUV_Stage_3/9855

[jfive]

There are some clutch kits out there that are alot cheaper if ya need to save money. I would just get the posi you have in your link. Its new, approved, and ready to be used. If you allready had the factory ford posi, then maybe rebuilding it would be worth it, but I would just go new. I got my stage three clutch kit with release bearing pp clutch 6 puck pilot bearing for 170.00 shipped :idea: http://www.turborangerforums.com/showthread.php?t=3600

[dangeranger93]

i have the same clutch as jfive and i like it so far, it holds good and release isnt to bad

[D94R]

just remember, since you don't already have a LS unit in your axle, whether you get a brand new one, or buy a used and pack it tight, you'll still have to set up the gears in the rear for proper mesh, back lash, etc. So, add that to the cost if you can't do it yourself.

[Tr00b]

Right, gonna do it myself never done one before but going to put lockers in the jeep someday too... Just placed the order for l/s gonna also get the clutch too, spring hangers swaybar endlinks etc.

Goodbye money lol.

[Tr00b]

Okay, let me get this straight...

This is the clutch you used, DangerRanger and Jfive... Which you are totally happy with...

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=170641984469&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=95255934195

There were quite a few links in that thread and I'm not sure which one is the one you actually have lol... And then Splat made reference to the Spec Stage +3 as the best clutch hes ever used.. I am still wondering if its worth spending the money on, sent him a PM to get his opinion. This is a DD minded build afterall.

I am tempted to do SN95 brakes as well while I am at it I found a complete kit locally (form j-yard parts) for $100, but don't really know what kina can of worms that opens up...

[jfive]

I have it on the shelf. Danger is using, as well as agent. I think another bought one too, but not sure. I have a phoniex friction stock clutch in mine right now, and have all the parts, but I am waiting for a ecu to finish. Was suppose to be a 3 month wait, and has turned into a 7 or 8. Its winter anyways so spring it will be going in. I can say having it in my hands, that it looks good, and feel it will do the trick.

[dangeranger93]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170658162208?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

this is what i have

[D94R]

Wow... $130 for that, not bad. But, I don't see tq/hp ratings either?

[jfive]

Its over 300hp. I found it somewhere a while back, although its not listed in that ad. Took a bit, but its rated at
Horsepower Rating 325HP
Torque Capacity 335 ft/lbs

[dangeranger93]

yeah i couldnt find the ratings either but im not making crazy power so i hoped it would hold, it holds all my spirited driving very well, and pedal feel isnt bad either. just FYI if you have a -94 you need to get a flywheel for a 96 for it to work

[Tr00b]

Yeah hot dang... 130 bucks is dirt cheap and I like it. Looks like it has that pesky throwout bearing too. I fell asleep with the computer on my lap so i couldn't message Splat... So screw it.

Thanks a TON! I thought this mess was going to cost over $1000 but its going to come in under $500.

[Tr00b]

Duya tee eff!!! They say transaction blocked, Item may no longer be available. I tried it a couple times over the last couple weeks figuring it was slow internet, with multiple kinds of Bahnhof clutches... But as soon as I click on a different kind of clutch or anything else on ebay, it goes through. They must have gone belly up?

If I'm doing a clutch job, shouldn't I replace the slave cylinder too or are they pretty reliable?

I never ordered the diff yet either. Total slacker here :(

[Tr00b]

Hit a couple major roadblocks in the "getting sht" category... Not worth explaining, but real frustrating. I've been asking my friends and relatives about what I want to do and what they think... And I am being told by everyone I know my truck is a piece of junk and turboing it is stupid, to just fix the truck and sell it. Encouraging!

And more waiting... :(