'87 2.3t in my '94

[muddpawz]

After all my searching and learning I finally found a complete 2.3 and T5 out of a 87 tc and Im ready to throw it into my 94 b2300! Im great on the mechanics of the install, but the whole computer and tuning swap, and change is driving me nuts!! would anyone be so kind as to break it down for my build, at least give me basic explination of what ive gotta do to get the thing running!!?? PLEASE!! got the big vam, and orig ic, wiring harness, and pretty much everything i could. The guy was gona do the same swap, and pulled the parts himself, so I have all i need!! Thanks for the help!!:thanks:

[Jesshwarren]

You will be much farther ahead using your ranger ECU, harness and chipping the ECU with a SCT chip. Check this out http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225875

[muddpawz]

not sure where else to ask this question at, so i pick here, where do i find a plug to stick in the distributor hole when going to a dual plug head and dont need it any more?

[AJ_Fritz]

pull the dummy shaft out of your 94 block

[muddpawz]

awsome! love it when i already have what im looking for and dont know it!!are there any crank sensors that i will need to steal off the 94 block as well to make the ignition work?

[D94R]

If you're keeping the "Ranger" electronics, then use the Ranger block and drill/tap it for a oil drain hole. Much simpler than trying to mount the DIS sensor to the turbo block.

[AJ_Fritz]

man i got to make a templete and start selling them for converting the turbo coupe blocks to DIS. i been working up some templetes for everything else so maybe ill add that into the mix.

[muddpawz]

so am i just SOL on the crank trigger? Or is there some where i can get info on how to do it? swapping cranks save any headache, or does the crank itself have nothing to do with it? Havent seen any other threads on doin this.

[AJ_Fritz]

the DIS trigger is on the block. the DIS reluctor is on the crank pully. crankshaft has nothing to do with it. the pick-up needs to be mounted on the block in the right location for 10* base timing.

[D94R]

It's too bad the EDIS sensor couldn't be used for the DIS. Having the sensor mounted on the front seal plate makes it so much nicer.

[muddpawz]

where is everyone getting their internal bearings from (crank, rod, cam, etc.)? didnt know if local autoparts stor would be a good enough quality or not? thanks

[nagelandy55]

Just got mine from NAPA, standard bearings should be fine.

[D94R]

Checkers, Autozone, Napa etc all carry the Clevite77 bearings. They are quality.

[muddpawz]

Can anyone tell me what the walboro high flow 255lph fuel pump part number is? i know its on here somewhere!! i swa the post on fuel pumps and caint find it again!!

[muddpawz]

does anyone know where to get a NEW thermostat housing? auto parts store says they cant get them havent been to ford yet, but no luck on the net either yet. Thanks!

[fordnut71]

did you try napa?
i got mine from a parts store. they had to order it in.

[muddpawz]

can someone tell me the part numbers of the hastings rings i keep hearing about, and where to find them at?!! GRASIAS AMIGOS!!!!

[muddpawz]

need some opinions!! I bought an '87 TC complete engine to drop in my truck, and now after learning more about the swap, have decided to go with swapping forged internals in my stock engine. Question is, should I part out the '87 TC, or sell it complete, with harness, turbo, LA2.....??? Im planning on using the funds from it to buy more parts. I dont wana tear it apart if its possible to get more $ for it as a whole. HELP!!

[muddpawz]

Well I didnt want to thread jack so Im going to post here. Ive read over and over about Jess's low budget trans upgrade, and finally did it last night. I had to replace the throw out bearing so I thought id go ahead and do the swap. I had some trouble locating some parts for the shift lever and wanted to mention them for everyone elses benefit. The bushings that keep the shift lever from feeling sloppy consists of a plastic cupped piece with a wave washer on it, there is one for the top and bottom, they are dealer items and sold individually only!!! You wil have to look at a parts break down to deternmine the part numbers, I didnt keep them. To replace the botom of the 2 sets you will need to press out 1 of the pivot pins that hold the shift lever in the trans. Ford does not offer these as replacement parts! If you tear them up, you will have to have them machined, or replace the whole top of the tranny! EXPENSIVE

As for swapping the flywheel from the T/C engin, I didnt see any physical differance in it and the ranger OEM one? I didnt measure it or anything, but they appeared identical.

while I had it out i decided to go with Jess's LUCAS oil suggestion to see if it would help my tired ole tranny. I didnt know exactly how much lucas to run in it, so I put a little over 2qts in it strait. Basically, I spilled quite a bit taking the trans out, (my front crossmember was bent to hell from a 4X6 board that bounced off a truck on the highway) so I just topped it off!?! It works great so far, and shifts soo much better now!! HIGHLY reccomended!!

Other than that all went as expected, now Im waiting to get some break in miles on it and see what it'll do!!!

[Touring23]

Regarding the shift lever, I scrounged a spare from a pull-ur-own for a few bucks.
Congrats on the successful surgery. :popcorn:

[Jesshwarren]

As for swapping the flywheel from the T/C engin, I didnt see any physical differance in it and the ranger OEM one? I didnt measure it or anything, but they appeared identical.


What pressure plate are you running? The ranger fly wheel should have a different bolt pattern on it. Unless with a after market fly wheel they can come with both bolt patterns for T/C PP or the ranger PP on the same fly wheel.

[muddpawz]

ok i need some help. Just did the budget t/c pp/clutch swap and replaced all but the slave cylendar...advice...!!!DO IT WHILE YOUR IN THERE!!!! A week later it blew, and had to do it all over again. So I replaced it and the clutch master cyl while i was at it this time. Here lies the problem, After bleeding the system with a hand vac pump, and doin the pedal pump routine, i still cant get it to go into gear!!!???

I can put it in gear, start it with the clutch in and it wont go any where, but when i try to shift it wont go into any other gear, have to kill it and put it back into gear. The slave looks to be moving about 1/2" at most. Its almost like it doesnt have enough stroke or something?

Any suggestions? Does it sound like I still have air in the system? Everyone says its a MUTHA to do, i didnt expect it to be that irritating though!! HELP!!!

[nagelandy55]

What year PP are you using?
What year and type tranny are you using?
What year is the truck?

[muddpawz]

1994 ranger
1994 M50D
1987 PP
1994 factory clutch disc

thanks for looking!!!

[AJ_Fritz]

get someone to depress the clutch peddle then release the bleeder. you still have air in the line or the slave. if that doesn't do it then crack the line loose( slightly loose so it will only leak when there is pressure on it) at the master and vigorously pump the peddle. then loosen the line on the slave and then tighten the line on the master and gravity bleed the slave through the bleeder.

you either have air in the master, the line or the slave. if you cant get the air out though the slave bleeder then you have to bench bleed the master cyl. meaning take it out make sure its level in a vise and stroke it all the way while cracking the plug where the line goes on the depressed cycle, or run a line into the reservoir and cycle the **** out of it till no more air bubbles are present.

anytime you replace a new master cylinder either brake or clutch you MUST bench bleed them in a level position. if you run one dry you have to bench bleed them.

[muddpawz]

all it took was pumping the ever loving bajeesis out of it!!! id almost givin up on the damn thing too. Thanks to all!!! now i know what ya'll meant by it being a real PITA!!!!

[birdmanslopy]

i remember when i did my clutch in my truck i had to take the whole assembly off the mounting under the hood and straighten the line because a bunch of air was trapped in it and it would do the same thing.
a pita precedure but deffently made my clutch stiff as hell and im still using the na motor with 200k miles :)
of course its taken apart now slowly being put back together but yea...

[muddpawz]

now that my clutch is cone and working properly, for now, i have discovered a realy bad hesitation during acceleration. It only does it in low rpms and heavy on the pedal? Its almost like the trucks losing ignition for a second, then continues firing again? Its bad enogh to have to ride the clutch or double clutch when it happens. I was thinking vac leak, but its not consistant with the symptoms. Then I was thinking fuel pump, (it'd be a good excuse to install my 255 though) but i think it would be a very consistant lug if that were the case.
Any way to check coil packs? Been a while since theyve been replace, or maybe a bad injector (189k miles)? Any ideas?

...BUMP...

[muddpawz]

is there anything special about installing new auxillary shaft bearings? My Hayes manual says to take it to a machine shop because they have to be installed to a certian depth.....any truth to thii? what are you doing when you rebuild yours? Thanks!!

[tim98]

You will need a bearing installer for that inner one cause its a pain in the arss. I took mine to the shop just because it was easier to do so at the time. Not sure about depth though.

[muddpawz]

well i ended up taking it back to the shop too. I didnt wana rig something. Just found a holset he351cw for cheap with no shaft play and im wondering if anyone has any input on if its a good turbo for my build or not. I searched the site but found nothing on the "cw" model. Any input?

[jfive]

Should be good. Its basically the same as the Hy35. Should build good boost in the top end. D94R has one it looks like so you might wanna ask him how he likes it. I think the reason i wanted to go with a holset was the longevity of them. I know on diesels people get 200,000 miles on the stock turbos, and with rebuilding being so cheap, I had to get one. Only thing i worry about is the exhaust temp. Not much said on here, but i'm sure it can be an issue since it is for any turbo. One thing I don't get is how all the honda guys keep there boost down when they use holset turbo's. I find there forum to have good information, so i read stuff on there from time to time. People are using them on B16's and B18's and getting into low 12's with 10 to 12 psi. Now i know this is word of mouth, but too many say the same things for it to be a real streach of the truth.

[AJ_Fritz]

better flowing heads make more power on less boost.

[jfive]

guess we should be building duratec 2.3s. I also kind a like the 2.2 mazda cylinder head that has 12 valves. I had a friend that had a 89 probe gt turbo and we put a used new engine in it and it would break loose in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. I drove it once and i was amazed at how fast it was with just 7 psi of boost. I would like to find one someday and turn up the boost to like 18 or something. I think its two intakes and one exhaust.

[muddpawz]

I haven't heard or read about it but was thinking last night, will I need to change my map sensor after I start boosting? OR WIll programing correct this

[muddpawz]

well today I went and found the proper parking brake cables for my 98 exploder rear end so I can remove the bench seat spring holding it off of my wheel. while I was there I asked about the spindles and for 50 bucks left with two complete assemblies! he was going to give me the whole Damn front end but it was too much work for the time I had. big brakes here we come!

[muddpawz]

Got back into town looking foward to finishing my big brake swap yesterday, only to get completely frustrated with the whole thing. I swear its never "that easy" with anything on this thing.

With the engine off the pedal is ready to bleed after 4 pumps. With engine on, it NEVER builds up when trying to pump them.

I have beeen bleeding the brakes for at least 4 hours now and they still dont work. I went to the rear and had no fluid from the bleeder screws so I got a new ABS hydraulic unit and fixed that. Still no pedal though!!!! I just read about using a scan tool or something to bleed them?!? Never heard of this before...am i missing something here after going through two quarts of new fluid i should be driving this damn thing by now.



Any ideas?! Anybody?!

[fordnut71]

you have air in the abs controller.
the only way to get the air out of the abs controller is with a scan tool that open the abs controller for a few seconds at a time.its not a cheap tool but you might be able to rent 1 if not its a shop that has the tools to do it.

[dangeranger93]

make sure you got the calipers on the right sides, i wasnt thinking and swapped sides on accident when i did it and had the same issues. the bleeder should be on top

[muddpawz]

Yeah danger, did the same thing but corrected it and still no dice....

Fordnut, got a part number or any idea where to get one from...anyone else know? I did lose a lot of fluid messing with the calipers so I wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Where is it located, and steps to fix it...any idea?

It's not the MC, got plenty fluid at bleeders all four corners, great pressure with key off, and none with truck idling. Hard lessons learned but I got nothing left to try. Stupid ABS.

[jdonaldson]

i have discovered a realy bad hesitation during acceleration. It only does it in low rpms and heavy on the pedal?
...BUMP...[/QUOTE]

My 94' NA Ranger Does the same thing. If i go all the way to the floor it will bog and then slowly start accelerating again. but if use a 8/10 throttle position it will not do it. I have no clue the cause but I do know that when I was running 19Lb Injectors it would do it a lot worse (to the point where I would have to double clutch), This leads me to believe that it is something electrical possibly a TPS but idk.

Sorry about the piss poor quoting, I have fully understood how to use that feature yet. lol

[muddpawz]

Great day at ye ole BONE YARD today!!!! Cleaned up nicely finding exactly what I was looking for, and a few things I wasn't, And didn't know I "needed"!!

Center console complete with working latch from '96 ranger (latch was broke on the one I got with the free '99 60/40 seats I swapped my bench out for) $$$$free$$$$

Matching ac dash vent (the slider was broke off on one of the existing ones)$$$$....$5...$$$$

'93 Splash coil springs (hope its not a myth, want to go a tad Lowes up front after dream beam install)$$$.....$55...$$$$

Rear panel for cab with carpet (truck had a bench seat so didn't have rear speakers or panel, have both now) $$$$....$free....$$$$

Extra set of rear axle spring/u-bolt plates (to make home made caltracs with)$$$$....$10....$$$$

All in all I had fun, found what I was looking for and didn't go broke doing it! ALso found a set of djm dream beams still on a truck with NO front end damage. I was tempted to snag em but didn't have time. The place didn't know what they were or worth so I coulda got em for a decent price I'm sure. They looked fairly new too, Not very dirty and bushings were in great shape. Ohhh well maybe next trip.

So without starting a bag argument, what's your thoughts on the splash coils...lower than non splash models or not?

[dangeranger93]

everything i hear about splash coils is they are 1 inch lower than non splash.
you got some good deals, now go back and get the dream beams even if you dont need them, you can always sell them for at least 200 easy and make some easy money

[muddpawz]

i have to go back and get one last interior piece that i didnt realizei needed as i was yanking it out of my way to get the rear panel...Dumb a$$....so I will see what they want for them if theyre still around.

[muddpawz]

Little update on the Mazda beast....
Replaced my 6yr old window tint with 5% on all 3 windows and across the top of the wind shield. New motor mounts, went with solid rubber from anchor, found them on Amazon for $13ea and had the set shipped for less than the local parts store wanted for ONE!!!! ANd threw a new factory style trans mount too. My ac stopped blowing cold on my test drive after getting the new mounts in so I figured out my low pressure switch was bad and replaced it too. On my way back to the house I developed a crazy bad vibration in the drive train. It hasn't felt quite rite for a week or so, but something finally gave and I couldn't get over 60mph. Limped it home and noticed trans fluid on the ground...tail shaft bushings was resting on the drive shaft, and had aluminum shavings everywhere, not a good sign!! Discovered my Pinion angle is way off (I never corrected it after lowering my truck) so it put the trans shaft in enough of a bind to wear out the bushing. I don't have time to fix it so I took it to a local shop and found out he has a completely rebuilt '98 explorer 8.8" that a customer backed out of...score! So for $500 they're swapping his rear end into my truck and replacing my tail shaft housing with one I picked up today for $40 with a new seal...score! So now when I get back to town it'll all be done and ready to roll again, (its still my daily driver). The guy I got the tail shaft housing will rebuild my trans for $350 parts included with 5yr 100k mile warranty so I think that'll be next and my drive train will be complete minus caltracs and a turbo engine! So that's where I'm at!!!

[muddpawz]

I uploaded some pics of my parts and a few other thigs so here is my best attempt at sharing them...I tried to post the images directly, but they were huge and felt the warning coming soooo I will just share the links until I learn how to effeciently share the images...I do most of my posting from my phone so all these options are new to me!!

Any who, a few shots of my head, block as i sits now...
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0446.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0939.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0940.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0943.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0945.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0493.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0494.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0495.jpg

[muddpawz]

A few interior shots..went from a vynal bench with 200k on it, drivers side didnt have any springs left under the seat...to my free 60/40 seats out of a '99 ranger. It took me 3 days of scrubbing, pressure washing, and more scrubbing to get the crap out of them. It was a security truck at a refinery....

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0048.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0061.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0062.jpg

Also my Autometer GS series monster tach...
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0566.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0563.jpg

[muddpawz]

I had the factory shifter and boot trim piece forever, not anymore....
First change was the Hurst shifter installed with modified original boot, and trim ring
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0312.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0315.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0316.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0317.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0318.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0321.jpg

Then I added a cup holder console in place of the std trim ring...
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0513.jpg

[muddpawz]

A few ins and odds pieces going on the truck
trans cross member
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0399.jpg

SSQV BOV
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0199.jpg

38mm waste gate
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/1316140581785.jpg

Summit Racing 1.25" sway bar vs factory
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0656.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0657.jpg

Infamous weak link header
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/headerwgmockup.jpg

Valve cover powder coated
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/turbovalvecvr.jpg

[muddpawz]

3" DJM Dream Beams next to factory I beams
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0448.jpg

installed
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0455.jpg

[muddpawz]

Truck with 17's on it before lowering

http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0121.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0122.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0105.jpg

shackle flip process....(has been since reversed and '98 expo flipped axle installed)
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0101.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0100.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0104.jpg
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0409.jpg

And how it currently sits with 8.8" flipped and dream beams with 2"drop coils, and Street Scene mirrors and Gumby's awsome rotor upgrade
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/IMAG0523.jpg

waiting for wideband gauge and oil pressure gauges to mount in my a pillar pod to pretty much wrap up my simple yet functional interior now!!

[muddpawz]

Here's the complete setup sitting on the stand in my garage
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd422/muddpawz/turbo%20build/completemockup.jpg

[marauderx]

And buy the way, there sure are a lot of Honda Flags in there- Motorcycles?