PDA

View Full Version : Building 95+ turbo motors now...


Jesshwarren
01-14-2008, 07:40 PM
I am building 95 and later 2.3L turbo motors as of right now. I will have one done this week and I have a second one ready to start on right away for next week.

95+ block & dual plug head.

2.3L OEM low mileage forged pistons.

Hastings turbo rings.

ARP rod bolts.

Turbo coupe HD head bolts.

1035 HG.

The block is tapped for oil drain line.


I am asking 500$ I will need your old motor for core. I will also install the motor for 100$ takes about 6-8hrs
Motor is guaranteed for up to 300RWHP & 6000RPM's but will support 400+ RWHP ant 25+ PSI of boost no problem. I will give it a one year warranty.

94Ranger
01-14-2008, 07:55 PM
so your taking peoples stock motors and preping them for turbo?....nice

twiztid1
01-14-2008, 10:31 PM
Awesome Jess. I will keep this in mind for my next motor.

Riddle_Rob
01-14-2008, 10:33 PM
Wow you really want more of these around haha. If I hadn't blown all my $$$ I woulda made the trip down to grab one of these / have this done!

Jesshwarren
01-14-2008, 11:21 PM
I'll post a bunch of pics up showing the build process.

nagelandy55
01-15-2008, 08:58 AM
What a deal!

Jesshwarren
01-15-2008, 06:36 PM
Started with this
http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/DSC00332.JPG

This is how it sits as of now.
http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01115.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01112.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01117.JPG

Riddle_Rob
01-15-2008, 07:00 PM
Wow thats purdy. That's high temp paint I assume? And could you be sure to get a pic of where you tap the oil return? PUH LEEEEEASE?

Jesshwarren
01-15-2008, 08:50 PM
Yea it's motor paint designed for the job.

It's real critical tapping the block. It can not be to the right or to the left of where it is located. to the right it will interfere with the crank rotation. 1/4" to the left there is a rise in the casting on the inside of the block for extra block support. I'll get some detailed pictures in the morning.

twiztid1
01-15-2008, 09:06 PM
Looks good Jess:cornut:

flyin
01-15-2008, 10:51 PM
It sounds like a smokin deal I have more than that in a set of pistons, bearings and gaskets. Although my pistons are forged units from racer walsh

Jesshwarren
01-15-2008, 11:15 PM
It sounds like a smokin deal I have more than that in a set of pistons, bearings and gaskets. Although my pistons are forged units from racer walsh

There is no way I could do this for this price if I do not get a core motor back.

Basicaly this is to help out some one looking for a turbo motor in a 95 and later ranger.

Jesshwarren
01-16-2008, 12:01 PM
Wow thats purdy. That's high temp paint I assume? And could you be sure to get a pic of where you tap the oil return? PUH LEEEEEASE?

Here ya go.

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01103.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/pi1001.jpg

See on the inside where I have it placed. There is a rib that you must not drill into. It also should be to the side so the rotation of the crank and rod don't interfere with it. This is about right on the stock T/C return location.

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01095.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01097.JPG

Riddle_Rob
01-16-2008, 12:23 PM
Awesome pics :) I will definitly use these for reference. Thanks man.

ben_2_go
01-16-2008, 01:50 PM
Will you be doing 2.5's?

Jesshwarren
01-16-2008, 06:47 PM
Will you be doing 2.5's?

A 2.5L will take some :$::$:

I will only do a 2.5L if someone wants one and is willing to pay the price. As for me I don't think the little gain is worth the extra buck.

Most the HP is in the capabilities of the head, cam & I ntake not the displacement.

alexster87
01-16-2008, 07:51 PM
Nice pic's Jess, Is the paint on the block from a spray can or by gun either way it is a awsome color for the block i think.

ben_2_go
01-17-2008, 12:13 PM
A 2.5L will take some :$::$:

I will only do a 2.5L if someone wants one and is willing to pay the price. As for me I don't think the little gain is worth the extra buck.

Most the HP is in the capabilities of the head, cam & I ntake not the displacement.


Kool.I understand about the price.I didn't know if you would go with replacement TC parts or get the good stuff.

Jesshwarren
01-17-2008, 01:05 PM
Kool.I understand about the price.I didn't know if you would go with replacement TC parts or get the good stuff.


With a 2.5L there are not a lot of options. Racer Walsh parts must be used and parts will run close to 1000$

I got 2600$ in my 2.5L by time I got it done. And that was motor and internals only. No turbo header or any other turbo charging parts.

Nice pic's Jess, Is the paint on the block from a spray can or by gun either way it is a awsome color for the block i think.

Spray can motor paint.

bruiser
01-17-2008, 08:23 PM
With a 2.5L there are not a lot of options. Racer Walsh parts must be used and parts will run close to 1000$

I got 2600$ in my 2.5L by time I got it done. And that was motor and internals only. No turbo header or any other turbo charging parts.

did it cost that much because you didnt swap 2.3L parts?
or it just cost that much period?

Jesshwarren
01-19-2008, 09:34 PM
did it cost that much because you didnt swap 2.3L parts?
or it just cost that much period?

Yes it was from not using 2.3L parts. It costs 750-800$ for rods and pistons for a 2.5L.

ben_2_go
01-19-2008, 10:34 PM
I could do 2.5's.

I thought that you maybe able to get a better price on the correct parts,since you deal with those companies more than me.

Jesshwarren
01-19-2008, 11:26 PM
I wish i could get better deals from them :)

Jesshwarren
02-12-2008, 01:02 PM
I did not get much time to work on this lately. I have been to busy on the C4. Here is where I am at.

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day4/DSC01155.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day4/DSC01158.JPG

Jesshwarren
02-14-2008, 05:21 PM
It's done :) I still need to have the oil pan cleaned up a little.
http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day5/DSC01200.JPG

Ranger4banger97
02-22-2008, 12:54 AM
It's done :) I still need to have the oil pan cleaned up a little.
http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day5/DSC01200.JPG
Alright, so let me get this straight haha. I send you my motor, and 500 bucks, and i get this?? If so, I call that a screamin deal haha:cheers2:

bruiser
02-22-2008, 06:08 PM
that minus header and turbo

D94R
02-23-2008, 09:10 AM
still a deal though

Ranger4banger97
02-23-2008, 03:27 PM
still a deal though
Yea it is

D94R
02-23-2008, 07:45 PM
It would run. But be low on power. Not sure if any other problems would persist since you'd really only be lowering the CR compared to the engine you replaced.

Ranger4banger97
02-23-2008, 07:46 PM
Alright, if i were to do this. I know that low comp forged pistons get put in. After i would get it back, can i put the motor back in without the turbo while i get the mani and turbo and all the other goodies? I doubt it, i was just makin sure. It would probably run like shtiz ha.

D94R
02-23-2008, 07:49 PM
uhhh... my post (#30) was in reply to a post #31 by Ranger4banger97, so it should have been post #32.... what the hell happened

Ranger4banger97
02-23-2008, 08:29 PM
Haha, its all good, i understood it ha. Im really considering this, cause i myself havent pulled a motor 2.3 apart yet, and if i know someone that could do it, why not. Along with the low CR, thats what i thought

salating
02-24-2008, 01:07 PM
uhhh... my post (#30) was in reply to a post #31 by Ranger4banger97, so it should have been post #32.... what the hell happened


your posts were within a minute of each other

even though you read his and replied to it the server got fouled up and put yours before his

gotta love computers

pongorulz
03-04-2008, 10:14 PM
how do you the oil pump out?? ive taken the 4 bolts out, and all it does is spin. ive tried consulting the haynes manual, and i dont see oil pump removal anywhere. i relly wasnt going to replace the seal, but now since its moved and broken the seal, i figured it it would be a good idea to change it, but i cant get it out whats up with that??

pongorulz
03-04-2008, 10:19 PM
Here ya go.

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01103.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/pi1001.jpg

See on the inside where I have it placed. There is a rib that you must not drill into. It also should be to the side so the rotation of the crank and rod don't interfere with it. This is about right on the stock T/C return location.

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01095.JPG

http://rangersrevenge.com/2.3l%20build%20up/day2/DSC01097.JPG

also jess, is that oil return right behind that rib, or like half way back towards the 4th cylinder??

Jesshwarren
03-04-2008, 11:43 PM
how do you the oil pump out?? ive taken the 4 bolts out, and all it does is spin. ive tried consulting the haynes manual, and i dont see oil pump removal anywhere. i relly wasnt going to replace the seal, but now since its moved and broken the seal, i figured it it would be a good idea to change it, but i cant get it out whats up with that??

The oil pump will pull out once them 4 bolts are out. There is a place where you can pry with a large screw driver. The O-rings fit tight.


also jess, is that oil return right behind that rib, or like half way back towards the 4th cylinder??

I I think it is right in front of it next to the 3rd cyl. Check by slecting the spot on the outside of the block 1st.

pongorulz
03-05-2008, 05:46 PM
The oil pump will pull out once them 4 bolts are out. There is a place where you can pry with a large screw driver. The O-rings fit tight.




I I think it is right in front of it next to the 3rd cyl. Check by slecting the spot on the outside of the block 1st.

yea tomorrow im gonns hook up the engine mount and mark out a spot, the only problem i have now is to find a drill and tap that big

ranger_99
03-06-2008, 12:24 AM
what size tap did you use for that hole?

pongorulz
03-06-2008, 09:30 PM
what size tap did you use for that hole?
i was actuall just going to ask that.

im running the kit from stinger, and everyone i talk to says differently.
one guy even said i have to drill it, ream it (since i guess it has a little taper to it) and then i can tap it.
any input on this?? also when i tap it, whats the thread, just standard pipe thread??

Jesshwarren
03-07-2008, 12:47 AM
I pretty sure it's 1/2".

pongorulz
03-07-2008, 05:44 PM
I pretty sure it's 1/2".

do i hafta ream it, or can i just drill and tap??

Jesshwarren
03-08-2008, 11:45 AM
do i hafta ream it, or can i just drill and tap??

No do not ream it. Use a 1/2" bit and a 1/2" tap. Test them out on something before you drill your block. You want a nice clean cut hole so the tap gets a decent thread cut.

Ranger4banger97
03-27-2008, 11:57 AM
Jess, since your header comes with an external wastegate mount, should i be steering away from turbos with internal wastegates?

salating
03-27-2008, 11:39 PM
you can get a turbo with an internal wastegate and run an external one

just dont hook the internal wastegate up

or you can run the internal and just put a block off plate on the header where the external wastegate bolts on

taknotes
03-28-2008, 01:28 PM
how do you not "hook" the internal up?

Top Notch
03-28-2008, 06:44 PM
Don't hook a vacuum/pressure line up to it.

Ranger4banger97
03-28-2008, 09:49 PM
ok gotcha

98 thunder bolt clone
05-14-2008, 12:22 AM
You know I can get a 2.3 motor .... I think I may just take you up on this Jess

Jesshwarren
05-14-2008, 04:51 PM
You know I can get a 2.3 motor .... I think I may just take you up on this Jess


The motor is setting here. When do you want to pick it up?

98 thunder bolt clone
05-15-2008, 07:55 PM
Ok Jess I'm going to hit the junk yard this weekend and look for a core and I will let you know. Plus I would love to get a good look at you're truck and see what I should be doing !!! LOL

P.S. I plan on driving down form buffalo so you are near Erie PA right? ... close to to lucky's drag strip??

Jesshwarren
05-16-2008, 09:17 AM
cool

pongorulz
05-18-2008, 08:30 PM
jess, how would putting the oil return into the front of the oil pan work? i dont relly like the idea of drillin to the block. so i thought the pan might be better

salating
05-18-2008, 11:02 PM
i would put the oil retun in the sump side of the pan if you want the return in the pan


jess put mine in the block and i have had no issues with it

nagelandy55
05-19-2008, 08:07 AM
Just pop a hole in the block, its not hard. Make a pilot hole and then use the big drill bit. Tap it and your ready to rock.

stocker for now
06-18-2008, 12:00 AM
you building any older motors i have a 94 ranger twin plug. what do i have to do to the computer to have a turbo on my truck. I havent worked on to many turbo motors i may have more ?

Jesshwarren
06-18-2008, 01:48 PM
you building any older motors i have a 94 ranger twin plug. what do i have to do to the computer to have a turbo on my truck. I havent worked on to many turbo motors i may have more ?

No I don't build to many pre 95 motors. The difference is the block and head. You can tune your ECU with a SCT chip.

ktravelet
06-25-2008, 12:38 AM
Couple questions here. I know you said turn around is 6-8 hours, so does this mean I can drive my truck to you on a fri, and have a new motor in by sun? I know extra cost for installation. Also do I need to bring a core or not? oh yea first post! And the total price to pull my motor, and put one of these guys in is?

Jesshwarren
06-25-2008, 07:03 AM
Couple questions here. I know you said turn around is 6-8 hours, so does this mean I can drive my truck to you on a fri, and have a new motor in by sun? I know extra cost for installation. Also do I need to bring a core or not? oh yea first post! And the total price to pull my motor, and put one of these guys in is?

I am pretty busy right now not sure if I could find time to install a motor. I had a built 2.3L setting here but just put it in my ranger after cracking a sleeve in the 2.5L I have one more 97 2.3L setting here if you want that I can put it together for you.

nate_v8
07-10-2008, 09:35 AM
Are you still building these engines? Also what all new do you put into these engines, such as bearings and what not?

mtcolerick
07-14-2008, 10:48 AM
So how much would it be for you to do a full motor build for me?

Jesshwarren
07-14-2008, 04:59 PM
So how much would it be for you to do a full motor build for me?


depends on what parts u want. 500$ min

jess

Ranger4banger97
09-24-2008, 07:25 PM
Jess, you still doing this deal? I just want the forged internals, and the block tapped. Or whatever that 500 bucks covers

98fordranger
12-03-2009, 04:51 PM
jess are you still building motors?

ben_2_go
12-03-2009, 09:43 PM
I haven't heard from Jess in a while,not that we ever really kept in touch.

jfive
06-21-2010, 03:24 PM
So where do you drill the hole for 89 to 94 blocks. Mine is differant than this one. I may just drill the oil pan i guess. I remember someone drilling my year block, but can't remember who.

DPDISXR4Ti
06-22-2010, 10:43 AM
So where do you drill the hole for 89 to 94 blocks. Mine is differant than this one. I may just drill the oil pan i guess. I remember someone drilling my year block, but can't remember who.

This worked well for me...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/DPDISXR4Ti/LimaInstall-Apr09-2.jpg

travelor101
06-22-2010, 10:46 AM
^^Heard the sump side of the pan is best to tap^^ You know I am not sure why the block is a better option to tap or not. I have listened to peoples insights about it and I hear some say it is best to tap the oil pan because it takes the near horizontal position of the oil line and angles it down more, thus flowing better. Personally I believe the stock location is best because someone else put more thought into it than I when designing the setup.

AirBender
06-22-2010, 01:05 PM
columbia sc????? whered you come from???? we need to meet up some time..... theres quite a few 2.3 turbos around here......

travelor101
06-22-2010, 02:31 PM
Been here about 9 years, took my car getting stolen to realize I needed to graduate onto bigger n better things. This may sound stupid but uhhh... how do you subscribe to a thread? Can't find the link.

<edit> got it - thanks 4cammer72

Low_life
06-27-2010, 05:52 PM
are you still building these motors?

power ranger 2.5
07-12-2010, 03:08 PM
hi jess i wouls like to TAKE YOU UP ON THIS DEAL!!!
a 2.3 with forged internals and new bearingings and head studs
ill pay the bill even if its more than 500, this would be a huge help
what a deal:D

phoenixfriend84
08-02-2010, 09:20 AM
This being such an old thread I wonder if he is still doing it. I have a shortblock with 69k in it I could swap into mine and send him mine for a core. Its a great running no knocker with 196k on it. I can only imagine that the price has gone up. I wonder what freight charge would be. I'm a bit too far away to drive up there and pick it up. He warranties it for one year but at what power rating? Will he require a dyno sheet? Would doing some of my own mods to it void his warranty auch as addind main studs and a stud girdle? Does it come with a head, cam, come with any head work? I'm not assuming it does just wondering how much more can be done beyond what he has already without voiding his warranty.

trgtshoot
08-11-2010, 08:49 PM
does any one know how to get a hold of this person i would love to pick one up...

Jesshwarren
08-12-2010, 09:53 PM
It all depends :D I am doing one now. I like the truck to be dropped off. Will run 2500$ or more. The ranger I am doing now is a 95 and getting a all out 2.5 and should be close to 375-400 rwhp and should be at the meet in indy

splatranger95
08-13-2010, 04:15 PM
OH, It'll be at the indy meet......

speedaddict
08-13-2010, 09:08 PM
Glad you chose a 2.5L splat. Welcome to the club. ;)

dirtech09
08-13-2010, 11:42 PM
Its actually gonna end up a 2.58 or a 2.6 I think.... HAHA

dirtech09
08-14-2010, 12:45 AM
ok so that last post was splat talking...he must of been on my computer logged in as me ha. so you can make fun of him. sorry!

speedaddict
08-15-2010, 10:10 AM
IT'll still be a 2.5 even with the .030 overbore Jess is prolly doin. I'm guessing maybe wiseco's?

jfive
08-15-2010, 10:13 PM
I did the math for speed one time on what there is to gain from boreing the motors out and its nothing. Not enough to equal 5 hp in most cases. I would bore as little as possible, cause thicker cylinder walls is strength and helps cool the motor better. On my 388 I have gained 5 cubs by going .060 over instead of .030. figureing a 350 is 5.74 or so I have a 6.36 as to a 6.28 I gained .08 of a liter, on twice the cylinders. so thats .04 on a 4cyl with the same bore and stroke, and the 2.3 and 2.5 have alot smaller bore and stroke even, so your probubly looking at like .025 of a liter by boring it .030.

splatranger95
08-15-2010, 11:11 PM
Thanks J... I was pretty much just throwing numbers out to make myself feel special. Its gettin a .020 bore with wiseco's. Jess' brother andy had them layin around.

Motor is gonna have Crower sportsman 5.2 rods, wiseco .020 pistons, total seal rings, port and polished head, hx35, 3" exhaust, water meth, ls1 valve springs. 60lb injectors, and a stage 3 clutch. Keeping my ported e6 just because it'll last forever. (I wanted to go for a center mount, but This is my dd so I didnt really want it to crack and be down for a few days while I weld it.) No cam right now just for a small money saver. It was either cam or rods, so I opted for rods since a cam can be put in anytime.

speedaddict
08-22-2010, 10:53 AM
sounds like an extremely familiar build.

Minus the meth and Ls1 springs its identical to mine(+.010 more bore)
With the meth and springs it sounds like Jess's.

Your gonna love it.

splatranger95
08-22-2010, 07:57 PM
Its pretty much Jess' setup minus the cam.

freelife04239
08-23-2010, 08:38 PM
ok i have a tc motor here i can have shipped full with everything. Is this going to cost me my shipping to you + 500 + price for you to ship back. I have a 98 2.5l, a 91 2.3l, and 87 tc motor. plus a stash of 2 more tc motors for 200.00 each lol. I realy want one good built motor what kinda deal would you do if i had you 3 tc motors shiped and only wanted one back for myself?????

John fender
09-01-2010, 07:01 PM
Hey man I'm in P.A. Doing some work and was just wondering if u could call me I got some questions for u 386-748-5889 thanks

freelife04239
09-16-2010, 12:07 AM
yes please call me as well 207-701-1430 Im looking to build or have a motor built. Im not looking to wast any ones time , Im looking at having a motor done and ready to put in my truck by end of jan. Is this somthing you could do? Also how much $$$ up front? I just need a 2.5 that can take 10-15lb boost. This needs to be a motor I can run every day year round and get 100K of ezdriving. If cant do this do you know of any one else that dose this type of work at a fair price.

Drakii
11-08-2010, 05:43 PM
Hey Jess... I have a 97 with the 2.3 5-speed. 150k miles on it...basically stock. I'd love to have it built up and boosted but I don't have the skills to do a swap like that myself. What would you charge me to bring you my truck (drive it to you all the way from Arkansas) and let you work your magic on it for a month and I fly back to pick it up? I'm talking build up & rebuild the 2.3, new clutch, turbo, and whatever else is necessary to get it working 100% turn-key and go..
Thanks

rangersplash2.3
11-08-2010, 07:01 PM
did you ever break in do pre 95 motors\trucks jess?

cboutilier
11-09-2010, 08:49 AM
I wish i could find somebody up here that is familiar with the 2.3T. Round here its all Hondas, VWs, and the odd skyline.

xdreamkustoms
01-19-2011, 01:49 AM
Hey Jess I am getting the turbo ranger back and was wondering if you would take the Merkur XR4Ti block in as a core. The only reason I want to do this is so I have the Cam sensor on the motor. Hit me up I am still in Afghanistan so it will be a minute before I can do anything.

Foolee
01-20-2011, 11:36 AM
It can be done but you need a 94 Califonia edition ranger camsensor from a 2.3l. They are not cheap and hard to find.

xdreamkustoms
01-21-2011, 03:56 AM
The 97 block out of my ranger that I gave Jess had a cam positioning sensor on the lower right of the block. The Merkur block did not, but Jess was able to tune it with out. It just sometimes has idle problems so I figured the cam sensor would help it out.

splatranger95
01-21-2011, 03:26 PM
Hey man, its Eric, I'm stick's friend. We talked a bunch when you were putting your truck together. I had the same issue you did, with the cam sensor. I used the cam sensor off the california model, and Jess has my block with that sensor in it, if you just want to use that instead of putting together a complete new motor. Also, I have my tune from the original motor, and I never had idle problems. It was tuned at alternative auto in detroit.

ALso, jess hasnt been on here in a very very long time so I would call him instead.

xdreamkustoms
01-21-2011, 10:25 PM
What's up Eric, I haven't been on in awhile myself. How's the beast doing?(the truck not stick, lol) So you say using the Cali cam sensor works, I would like to see what needs to be done. But if you say the idle can be adjusted better with another tune I might go that route. I am getting my truck back somewhere around March so I will be working on updating it then. I sold it to a soldier who is scared of it so I am getting it back. Anyways if you come across a good Hx35 for cheap hit me up. Thanks man talk to you later

BigRed10287
02-17-2011, 10:16 PM
A 2.5L will take some :$::$:

I will only do a 2.5L if someone wants one and is willing to pay the price. As for me I don't think the little gain is worth the extra buck.

Most the HP is in the capabilities of the head, cam & I ntake not the displacement.
So what are the differences between 95+ 2.3's and 2.5's? I'm doing a little work on my 2.5 right now so I'd like to know what I can't use from a 2.3.

fordnut71
02-17-2011, 11:09 PM
the crank rods an pistons are different between them.
so to make your 2.5l a 2.3l turbo ready you need the 2.3l crank from a 95+ an the turbo coupes rods an pistons.

jfive
02-17-2011, 11:17 PM
correction, 89 up crank. or 91 crank from a mustang. Not sure how everyone gets this confused. 95 is the change in intake compression, and obd II. Crank was allready a one piece rear seal in 89. A quick search on rockauto.com would confirm this. Just check the main bearings.

oldcarfart
02-18-2011, 07:25 AM
Yea it's motor paint designed for the job.

It's real critical tapping the block. It can not be to the right or to the left of where it is located. to the right it will interfere with the crank rotation. 1/4" to the left there is a rise in the casting on the inside of the block for extra block support. I'll get some detailed pictures in the morning.

Are you fair to yourself at these prices? BTDT. You do good work so don't give it away but find a price that supports sales and your efforts and overhead. Enjoy!

oldcarfart
02-18-2011, 07:35 AM
This worked well for me...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/DPDISXR4Ti/LimaInstall-Apr09-2.jpg

For those interested the square head pipe plug located above the starter and below the freeze plug should be the block coolant drain.

If you drain here, use coat hangar to loosen up sediment and any core casting sand still in water jacket.

oldcarfart
02-18-2011, 07:38 AM
columbia sc????? whered you come from???? we need to meet up some time..... theres quite a few 2.3 turbos around here......

Maybe a BBQ at my place in Clinton, just off I-26 exit #52, also cheap lodging in area because of being a trucker load swap area.

murdered96
12-12-2011, 07:23 PM
i hope this is synced to your email but i also pm'd you...i would like you to build an engine for me if your still doing it. stock cam,crank,oil pump,i have rods my pistons may work with a little emery cloth, im using a '98 2.5 head and ill pay extra for you to get a core where your at..a quote i got for a rebuild was 1650 and your 500 min is around my range seeing how everything is basically stock...please let me know something...or if any body know if he is available to do this please pass along..thanks
carllewis6996@gmail.com