2000 Ranger 2.3T project

[radrangerXLT]

Just thought I would let everyone know what I have been up to the past few days in between classes.

I finally started cleaning up the block, cleaned all the crud with a little plastic brush from the dollar store and a bucket of hot water and laundry detergent, then dried it off with a tack rag.

Here's what it looks like...

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/0126091143.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/0126091145.jpg

Still needs cleaned up in a few minute places...

The original paint looks good so I'm going to keep it (should look good with the 86 TC valve cover I plan on putting on the engine). I checked all the freeze plugs by looking into the water jackets, they all look new on the inside so I'm going to leave them just as they are. There is a lot of crud inside the jackets but I think a pressure washer should get most of it out.

I also inspected the oil pump, shaft spins very smooth, and all the gears on the inside look clean with no scoring, I think I'll re-use it:D

Still have some more work though while I wait on bearings and rings, the pistons & rods still need cleaned as well as all the mating surfaces on the block... more pics to come.

[radrangerXLT]

Looking good. Man that paint is in good shape for a 2000! Was the thing ever winter driven? My block had so much rust on it i had to go at it with a hammer and chisle for half a day to get it all off.

It's actually a block & crank from a 95' Ranger. It was pulled because the guy who owned the truck rolled it. I was really shocked myself to see how clean it really was. I ended up trading my turbo short block for the one pictured, and seeing as the turbo short block was FILTHY, I think I made out pretty good.


Also checked the crank shaft end play, .006 :)

[radrangerXLT]

Was back at it again tonight.

I cleaned all of the block's gasket and bracket mating surfaces with a razor blade held at a 90 degree angle to the surface, turned out real nice, finish is smooth and level. :)

Took the crank out, the journals look amazing! No scores or scratches. The bearings looked great as well, no sings of wear on the thrust surfaces.

So then I decide to clean up the plate that houses the Crankshaft position sensor. I tried to "gently pry" (as my Hanes manual likes to put it) the sensor out of the plate and the thing snaps right in half :cuss: Not a major loss, it's only a $17 part. So I beat the rest of the broken sensor out with a screwdriver and a hammer. The plate cleaned up real nice though.

I'm gonna head back down in the basement and take some aluminum foil to the fuel rail, see how much of the shine I can bring back in it. :D

[radrangerXLT]

Took some more pictures. Sorry their kind of crappy, I've been taking them with my phone.

Head gasket surface clean and smooth *edit* don't mind the little specs in the cylinders, that's just gunk from when I scraped the mating surfaces
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/0126092342.jpg

Same for the pan gasket surface
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/downsized_0126092343a.jpg

Marked the position for the oil return fitting, hard to see but it's there
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/downsized_0126092346.jpg

And this is the cleanest I could get the fuel rail, you can't really tell but there are a few little spots of rust i couldn't get at with the aluminum foil.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/0126092343.jpg

Also, would any of you guys advise against re-using the rear main and front plate seals? Reason I ask is that they both cleaned up real nice and show no signs of wear, cracks or fatigue.

Thanks

[radrangerXLT]

I like to use RTV around the front plate seal along with the rubber gasket. Its a bitch when that one leaks.
And just a side note, ford service manual recommends you put a dab of RTV at the 4 90 degree bends around the front and main bearings in conjunction with the gasket when installing the oil pan. And let me tell you it works, i had leaks before i did this.
This time i put a bead of RTV around the whole oil pan so the SOB won't leak, nothing worse than an oil leak dirtying up a freshly rebuild engine.

Sweet. Yeah, I'm not trying to have this engine leave oil spots everywhere I park it like my brothers 5.0 does.:nono: *edit* I have the gasket kits, I was more or less curious.

I'm going to stop by my buddy's house later and see if I can borrow his drill so I can clean up all the hardware with a wire wheel attachment I have lying around and drill for the oil return fitting, then when I go home this weekend I'll grab my rods & pistons, a tap and all the fittings I have from the TC engine. Still need to get a hold of a bottle brush hone though...

For now I'm gonna start cleaning the alternator & p/s brackets, they're filthy.

[radrangerXLT]

Well, no real progress...

After looking under the hood of my truck last night and realizing that all the serpentine brackets are a LOT cleaner than the ones I was originally trying to clean, I decided to scratch that idea.

I cleaned the crank with a clean rag and a bucket of water and detergent, smeared some oil on the journals, stuck it in some plastic bags and put it in a safe place for now.

I wish it wasn't so cold and snowy out right now, would be nice to stop at the local car wash and pressure wash the block. Other than that I'm pretty much at a stand still till I get my other parts & tools this weekend.

[radrangerXLT]

I'm headed home later on today and I'm bringing the block with me. Going to clean up the mild sludge buildup on the inside of the block, drill & tap for the oil return, pressure wash the water jackets and hone the cylinders.

While I'm home I'm going to clean up the forged internals I have there also

Then hopefully I can pick up my bearings and rings from the machine shop my buddy works at, maybe get some moly lube while I'm there also.


Should be a productive weekend:yesnod:

[radrangerXLT]

Got some more work done on the block today. I ran a tap through all the bolt holes on the block and drilled a pilot hole for the oil return. I don't have a drill bit or tap big enough for the stock TC oil return fitting.

Still haven't gotten a hold of a bottle brush hone yet.

Cleaned up all the fittings I'm using from the TC engine with a wire wheel on a drill.

Started to clean the pistons, came out real nice but got a quick question... Should I be worried about the burnt oil residue pictured below? And also should I be worried about the scuff marks on the piston skirts in the picture below that? Seems like the TC engine had some overheating issues.

Thanks Guys.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/0131092204.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/0131092205.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

I think all used pistons are going to have that residue and the skuff marks. I wouldn't worry about it.

Those pistons look good to me. Your doing a heck of a job

carb cleaner will take the residue right off.

you can emry the scuff marks to smooth em out.

Cool. The residue is just a pain to try and clean off (I guess you could say I'm starting to get lazy with the cleaning) Looks like my thoughts were right tho.

Thanks Nagelandy.

[radrangerXLT]

Well I'm packing everything back up and headed off to school again for the week. :cheers2:

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/steve2-1.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/steve1-1.jpg

Got the pistons real clean, just a few minor spots of carbon that I'll take care of once at school, my arms were killing me after scrubbing those guys.

Adam, I'll try the carb cleaner on the wrist pin area :thanks:

[radrangerXLT]

Got some more work done.

I scraped the insides of the water jackets and flushed them out with hot water, no more crud in the back of cylinder #4's jacket. I also noticed something odd, there were little pellets in the jackets that came out after flushing. I asked my brother and he said they're from some type of head gasket sealant, stuff??? Dunno. Anyway...

Gonna borrow a friends rifle cleaning kit and clean the oil galleys in the block and crank. Also, the journals on the crank look great and have no scores or heavy scratches, but I was told I should hit them with some emery to polish them a bit. Is this needed???

Other than that, everything is clean and ready to be assembled. I'm picking up bearings & rings this weekend also, $110 for 88' TC Hastings replacements & 95' Clevite rod & mains. Gotta love friends with discounts:D

And I STILL can't get a hold of someone with a hone!!

Should be able to start assembling next week

[radrangerXLT]

Cool! Just make sure the caps are on the right rod's with the #'s on the rod & cap on the same side.

yeah, they're all stamped on the same sides. I'm gonna put them back in their respective cylinders too (#1 piston & rod in cylinder #1, #2 piston & rod in cylinder #2, etc.)

[radrangerXLT]

So no real progress as of lately, this weather blows and school has kept me well occupied.

I picked up one of those gas appliance connectors from Home Depot the other day, those things are NICE for only $10! I also picked up the piston rings and bearings I've been waiting for.:yesnod: But I still can't get a hold of a hone:banghead:

I'm also in the market for a new car soon. The company my mom works for is getting rid of their company car and the employees can purchase it for practically next to nothing if they want it. Its a 00-04 ford focus station wagon. Once I get that car on the road I'm taking the ranger off and I can then start on pulling the 2.5 and swapping over parts to the 2.3T:rockwoot:

[radrangerXLT]

did it come the pipe come with the pipe connectors? some times the gas guys steals them. an you need them to install it.
y dont you just take your block in to have it honed. probley wont cost much an about the same of buy it yourself. not like you going to be honing blocks everyday.
i think i hear a turbo focus wagon project starting soon lol. g/l with the new car.

yeah... both ends had a fitting in them, the bag was even open. It was the only 12" one they had there so it had to be mine.


Both of my brothers are mechanics and I know one of them has to know someone who has a hone. It's just a matter of time before they find someone. I'm not in a hurry to get the short block together, just trying to save some cash.


Turbo Focus sounds pretty cool...

[radrangerXLT]

You can pick up a 3 stone honer from Harbor Freight. Usually about $10. Work just fine for the the DIY hone.

yeah, I was looking at those at the auto parts store but they didn't have any that were big enough for the cylinders. I'll check out Harbor Freight, thanks D94R:thumbsup:

[radrangerXLT]

Picked up a 3 stone hone from Harbor Freight, 17.99! :yesnod: That place is great, so much automotive stuff for cheap!

Any tips or tricks for honing the cylinders? I'm under the assumption that I should keep the drill speed as low as possible, follow the factory crosshatch, and just put a light scuffing in the bores?

Also what about honing oils. Can I use motor oil, transmission fluid?

I'll be sure to take pictures as this is the only process that I'm just a tad worried about royally fudging up:skep:

[radrangerXLT]

use a light oil. wd-40 could be used in a pinch .keep the stones clean so they can keep cutting an dont clog up.try to do the cross cuts at 60*an very slow speeds.

what happens if you go fast ..... cause thats what i did.

you can glaze the stones making them usless. much like a bruning out a new clutch.

So then it would be safe to say I should thoroughly coat the bores and honing stones with oil/wd-40, compress the stones and pop the hone in the cylinder and run it up and down bores a few times, then pull the honer out and check/clean the stones. Then rinse the bores with oil to get out the debris & repeat until I get the finish desired?

That sounds about right i would think... :=)

[radrangerXLT]

It was beautiful out today so I took the ranger for a drive. :peelout: Drove out to Advance to pick up some CRC assembly lube and some Permatex Ultra Black for the oil pan & front plate today.

I pretty much have everything sitting here to build a complete long block. now if only I hadn't sold the T3 off the Turbocoupe I could have a complete engine minus injectors. :conf45:

I Thought I would share also how much I have spent so far. Considering that the 2.3L short block (I traded the turbo block for this), 95' fuel rail, E6 manifold, rods and pistons were freebies since I made more than all my money back parting out the car, all I have spent money on is...

Bearings - $60
Rings - $50
Honer - $18
Moly lube - $5
gasket maker - $6
oil return line - $10
1035 - $56
ARP rod bolts - $40
conversion gasket kit - $32

A grand total of $267! not a bad price at all for a complete engine minus turbo and injectors. God I love how cheap these things are to build. :yesnod:

[radrangerXLT]

Just out of curiosity, what did you guys gap your rings to? The instruction sheet in the Hastings box recommends a .004 minimum per 1" of bore, which gives me a minimum of .016 ring gap. Did any of you choose to do a bigger gap?

The instruction sheet also doesn't specify ring gap location. I'm assuming I should consult my Hanes manual for that.

location isnt that important as long as none of them overlap. i ussually 4 point it. top compression on one side, second ring 180* on the other side and the same with the oil rings only 90* to the compression rings.

[radrangerXLT]

yeah, I just read over on TurboFord that the rings actually move around during operation, just as long as all the gaps aren't lined up. Thanks Adam :D

What about ring gaps... is .016 enough? I do know that the rings expand during operation, I just fear that they may butt together.

[radrangerXLT]

yeah, I just read over on TurboFord that the rings actually move around during operation, just as long as all the gaps aren't lined up. Thanks Adam

What about ring gaps... is .016 enough? I do know that the rings expand during operation, I just fear that they may butt together.


I never checked what mine where. I always have run std. bore in all the 2.3's and the std. rings looked like they where not to tight. Never checked them. Not sure what the gap was. I am sure .016 is plenty I don't think my last motor had any more than that.

Thanks Jess,

That's just what I needed to hear.:thumbsup:

I remember checking my ring gap. They came out fine like every other time I put a motor together, I just like to check. I believe there was a sheet that came with the rings with specs. If you don't have this I would go with turbo coupe specs. Basically you are checking that none of them were mispackaged.

[radrangerXLT]

Wow, talk about bringing a thread back from the dead! Just wanted to pop in and fill you guys in on some progress that I've made.

First off, just want to say thanks again to Andreas (nagelandy55) for cleaning up this thread, makes it a LOT easier to skim through.



I recently took all my engine crap down to the shop where I work. Got the hole for the oil return line drilled and tapped, FINALLY! :rockwoot: Piece of cake, took all of 10min to do. I used a step drill bit with the first few steps ground off as it was too long and ran right into the webbing for the #4 main cap. Stepped it out to 11/16" then went in a tad bit more with the next step of the bit to make a nice beveled edge so the tap had some material to bite onto. Tapped the hole with a 1/2" NPT, screwed in the fitting from my nice $10.00 Home Depot oil return line and called it a day.

I also received in the mail just a few days ago a few packages from Mr. D94R. (Thanks again Matt) The contents of those boxes just happened to be a Garrett T3 with all the bells and whistles.:D So I made a pattern from the T3 footprint, set it on my E6 manifold and started to do a little port work. Let me tell you guys that have never ported one of these things, there is A LOT of material to be moved here, mainly in the back to straighten the path for the #4 runner.


I also have a few quick questions for the know it alls around here :moon:

1. The stock ranger oil pump. I'm gonna re-use it, it appears to be in good condition, shaft spins smooth and firm and the gears on the inside look great with no scoring. Can the seal on the front of these units be replaced?? The seal on it at the moment looks a tad bit beat up (more or less slightly corroded) for my liking.

2. It sucks when you work at the same place with your older brother who is a sr20det freak! He thinks that the whole bottom end for my truck needs balanced and blueprinted, I think that he is full of :icon_bs: All of the journals on the crank look amazing and measured out to be still in round. the old bearings that came out were in good condition, and before I even took out the crank it spun in there like butter and the end play was smack dab in the middle of where it should be.

The plans for this engine will be a DD street machine that will most likely never see 6,000 rpm's as I've read that the stock cam (which I will be using) falls off around 5-5,500 rpm's. I honestly feel that I should be able to drop the crank back in as is with fresh Clevite's, slide the TC rod/piston assemblies in their corresponding cylinders with yet again fresh Clevite's and call it a day. The only machine work I'm looking to have done is a hone job and nothing more. Yet, my brother thinks I'm talking out my ass. Am I really??

I hope to have some pictures up tonight as I know you guys love the parts porn:yesnod:

Thanks again guys,

Steve

[Riddle_Rob]

Don't worry man. I'm getting the same grief from many people I know. I'm doing the exact same thing. Just putting in new Clevites, light hone and rebuild from there.

I was trying to replace oil pump gasket too, didn't look into it too far. Just put old one back on after having Andreas look at it and I bought some Ultra Black silicone. It's supposed to withstand oil etc... so I put lots on with the gasket in hopes it helps :D

[radrangerXLT]

It's not the gasket I'm worried about, but at the front of the pump itself. The seal on the shaft of the pump where the timing gear slides on. I never seen a replacement seal for the oil pumps on these engines. Maybe I'm worrying about this too much...

I just checked out mercurencyclopedia. Some pretty good info. They say the cranks are usually pretty well balanced from the factory so I'm just gonna toss it in and be done with it. The rods and pistons on the other hand are said to be sometimes out of balance as much as 6 grams.

Anyone know where on the rods the machine shops take material away from to put the assemblies back in balance? I'm thinking on the raised flat boss (or whatever) on the bottom of the rod cap. If that's the case then I'll balance them myself.


I say, "let it be built, let it scream! If it blows up, I'll just rebuild it." :D

[Riddle_Rob]

AHHH The front seal. Yea I took a look at mine too. I ended up just cleaning it up and it looked ok. Didn't seem to be stained from oil, just the usual engine grime.

[radrangerXLT]

I figure I'll let it slide. If it becomes a problem down the road then I'll just replace the pump. Can't be too hard to change out while the engine is in the truck.

[radrangerXLT]

Been a while since I've posted anything, got a few goals for the new year since I've achieved so much other crap (Just got back from a week in Vegas!) in 2010 already.

First of order is to get the engine assembled. Going to get the block honed and then clean it, the crank and the rods & pistons one final time, slap in the new bearings lube everything up and torque to factory spec. Since I am using stock parts that haven't been touched besides a good cleaning I am not balancing anything.

Any tips/tricks from the pro's? All I can think of are as follows:

Use liberal amounts of lube.

Coat the bores with oil before dropping in pistons.

Use rtv around oil pan and at 4 corners of front and rear main caps.

Use copper spray with the turbo to manifold and manifold to head gaskets.

Prime the oil pump and triple check timing before I drop it in the ranger.

Clean ALL grounds.

Once installed, a fresh tune up with quality Motorcraft/Autolite plugs & wires


I'm using the pan, oil pickup tube, head and intakes (after some light porting) and throttle body off of the existing 2.5L that will get pulled after I build the short block. Getting a Stinger feed line. I'm sending my T3 CHRA to Charlie @ Evergreen for a rebuild & upgraded step gap seal, He also said the cracks in my turbine housing should be ok. I'm also using stock WG actuator and stock clutch, 7-10psi for now. Once it's in the truck I'll be hitting up Jess for a tuner, maybe take a ride from Pittsburgh to Meadville.

[radrangerXLT]

Started assembling the short block last night. I honed out the cylinders the night before with a 3 stone honer and used BogusSVO's method to final wash the block and crank. I got all but two rods and pistons in, and then I realized I put the main bolt with the stud for the oil pick-up tube on the wrong side of main number 4 :banghead: I'll fix that tonight. when I install the other two rods and pistons.

Crosshatch, I thought it came out pretty darn good for my first hone attempt.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/block1.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1220.jpg

Crank in.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/block5.jpg

Pistons 1 and 4 in.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1225.jpg

I'll have more progress up tonight.

[Jesshwarren]

Looking good.

[Rory]

I wish I had the patients to clean everything Ive got like that, that stuff turned out great! I start cleaning stuff and lose interest real quick lol

[speedaddict]

Take it to the machine shop, they'll bath it for you and be clean nuff to eat off of. (pretty cheap too)

Lookin good radranger, Get some more pics up here!!!!! :thumbsup:

[Skyy_4life]

wow bro looks good :rockwoot:

[radrangerXLT]

Thanks guys.

Well, i got pistons 2 and 3 in the other night, the crank spins very smooth with everything in there so I am happy at this point. I put the baffle for the crank vent back in with some loc-tite on the bolts and screwed in the 5 pipe plugs for the oil galleys and the oil return bung with some permatex to seal it all up.

For now, I'm waiting on some gaskets from rockauto.com and for some room to free up at the shop so I can get the ranger in. Then it's on to yanking the 2.5L out, dropping the valves out and porting the head before I give it to the machine shop to hot tank and install new bearings.

In the mean time, I took a wire wheel to the turbine housing, exhaust elbow and E6 so I can ceramic paint them, should look nice when they're all finished. I also ported the E6, just opened up the turbine outlet a bit to match the T3 footprint, I'll have to wait till the head comes off to see if/how much I can remove on the exhaust ports. I should have some pics up in the next few days.

[radrangerXLT]

Short block assembled:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build8.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build4.jpg

Some polished and ceramic painted goodies:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build9.jpg

Ported E6:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build5.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build3.jpg

Ported waste gate hole:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build6.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build1.jpg

Ported exhaust elbow:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/build7.jpg

[nagelandy55]

Right on, looks good! Wastegate hole looks huge, hope the flapper still covers it all.

[radrangerXLT]

I didn't open up the waste gate hole too much, I maybe opened the diameter of the hole an 8th of an inch or more. There is still plenty of the puck to seal around the hole.

[fordnut71]

everything looks good but you have a crack in that waste gate hole. it could open up an bleed off pressure.

[Thedrifter]

i dont know how he saw that crack but its there and he may be right, needs to be welded, thing is that part is cast so its not the easiest thing to weld, im shure you'll figure it out tho.

[radrangerXLT]

I emailed Charlie at Evergreen, he says the cracks are normal and they should be fine. That's also the reason behind porting and smoothing out the hole to hopefully get rid of some of the high turbulence in that area once the puck opens up and make it a bit easier for the gases to escape.

[speedaddict]

Charlie's the Man. I'm glad Aj turned me on to him!!

I'm also glad he cleared it up for ya!

[nagelandy55]

X2 on charlie, he's good stuff.

[radrangerXLT]

Yeah, Charlie is great, and the cheapest I've come across, but his work is anything but cheap.

I went to the junk yard yesterday (I love that place, makes me feel like a kid in a candy shoppe) picked up a complete head from a 2.5L Ranger for $107 out the door. Looks to be in pretty good shape, no sludge, cam lobes look great and overall was decently clean. I took it apart last night minus pulling the cam, all I have to say is wow, the springs in these things are tiny!

I'm going to start porting today. I've read the best gains are in the valve bowl and smoothing out the short side radius. Should I open the hole on the back side of the valves right above the seats? Looks like it would flow more air easier if I were to hog it out some? Then I'm going to clean up the casting mess in the intake and exhaust ports, I'm keeping the ports as close to stock size as I can and port matching the runners on the E6 and intake to the ports on the head. I want to keep velocity up and make some really good mid range power.

Thanks

[speedaddict]

Junkyards are the best. 100bucks on 2.5 dp head pretty good deal. :thumbsup:

[DangerRanger01]

Yeah, Charlie is great, and the cheapest I've come across, but his work is anything but cheap.

I went to the junk yard yesterday (I love that place, makes me feel like a kid in a candy shoppe) picked up a complete head from a 2.5L Ranger for $107 out the door. Looks to be in pretty good shape, no sludge, cam lobes look great and overall was decently clean. I took it apart last night minus pulling the cam, all I have to say is wow, the springs in these things are tiny!

I'm going to start porting today. I've read the best gains are in the valve bowl and smoothing out the short side radius. Should I open the hole on the back side of the valves right above the seats? Looks like it would flow more air easier if I were to hog it out some? Then I'm going to clean up the casting mess in the intake and exhaust ports, I'm keeping the ports as close to stock size as I can and port matching the runners on the E6 and intake to the ports on the head. I want to keep velocity up and make some really good mid range power.

Thanks

I don't have anything to help you out, but you should let us know how the porting went. I 'm going to be doing the same thing here pretty soon so any pointers or tips will be awesome.

Are you going to put in some big valves?

[radrangerXLT]

Got some porting done to the head the other day. How's this looking so far?

Started on the intake ports, smoothed out all the casting and opened the runners to the size of the actual port opening:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head5.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head3.jpg

Same with the exhaust. Opened the port and runner a little, the flanges on the E6 have a slightly bigger diameter than the exhaust ports, should I open them up some more?
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head1.jpg

And then I started working the short side radius in the exhaust port. I just cut away at all the extra meat and made a nice curve to the port floor:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head2.jpg

I still have more porting to do, but then I stumbled upon this and decided to see if it would fit:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head6.jpg

[Skyy_4life]

Got some porting done to the head the other day. How's this looking so far?

Started on the intake ports, smoothed out all the casting and opened the runners to the size of the actual port opening:
http://i124.photobucket.om//p5/snmbikes07/head5.jpg
http://i124.photobucketm/albms/p5/snmbikes07/head3.jpg

Same with the exhaust. Opened the port and runner a little, the flanges on the E6 have a slightly bigger diameter than the exhaust ports, should I open them up some more?
http://i124.photobuckecom/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head1.jpg
And then I started working the short side radius in the exhaust port. I just cut away at all the extra meat and made a nice curve to the port floor:
http://i124.photobucket.om/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head2.jpg

I still have more porting to do, but then I stumbled upon this and decided to see if it would fit:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/head6.jpg

love the look of those valve covers. want one for myself. :)

[nagelandy55]

I have heard that the exhaust ports don't need much work other than a good polish. There is alot to clean up in the bowl yet but i'm sure you're all over that. Looking good.
Porting takes alot of time, be patient and don't take too much material out in the wrong spots.:D

[radrangerXLT]

you should let us know how the porting went. I 'm going to be doing the same thing here pretty soon so any pointers or tips will be awesome.

Are you going to put in some big valves?

No, I am not putting in big valves... yet:D

The porting is going pretty good for the time I've been allotted. It's definitely going to take at least another 4 or 5 hours to finish what I've already accomplished in 3, and that's just in the runners and bowls. I still have to port and polish the combustion chambers too so tack on another 4 hours or so.

I feel very fortunate to have access to multiple carbide grinders and cartridge rolls, it helps to have the (almost) right tools for the job for sure.

Patience is key, porting takes time. I should have more pics up by the weekend.

[radrangerXLT]

Finished the intake and exhaust ports just now. They're about as good as I'm going to get provided the tools available to me.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/port6.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/port5.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/port3.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/port4.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/port1.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/port2.jpg

[Riddle_Rob]

I really should start on mine. That looks good.

[radrangerXLT]

Got all the combustion chambers ground out yesterday. I cc'd the first chamber and it came out to 60cc's exactly. I'm headed to the shop now to cc the other 3 chambers, I'll have pics up soon.

What did you guys use to polish the chambers after they've been ground out? This sandpaper isn't working as well as I'd like it too.

Thanks

[nagelandy55]

P&P kit from summit racing.

[fordnut71]

dremel sanding rolls an steel wool on a old arbor for a dremel. just dont use high speed where it will blow apart.

[radrangerXLT]

fordnut71,

I have some sanding rolls but they're too big to use. I was going to use emery cloth but that would take forever. I'll probably swing by home depot or something of the like and see if they have anything I can use.

Here's some pics, The measurements from chamber 1 to chamber 4 is 60, 58, 59, 60. I'm going to spend about another minute in chamber 3 and about another 2 minutes in chamber 2. Then a good polish should take them to about 61 or 62cc, deck the head and I should be back around 60cc.

Completely un-shrouded the valves and smoothed out the best I could with the die grinder. I used a 1/4" round carbide bit.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/cc1.jpg
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/cc2.jpg

[Riddle_Rob]

Very nice. I've yet to do mine.

[AJ_Fritz]

very nice work on the chambers. look for some 3M polishing wheels. they come in coarse, medium, and fine. for cast iron i use coarse and meduim.

look like this:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?SSSSSu7zK1fslxtU48_G4xmvevVSeChshvT SevTSeSSSSSS--

[jfive]

Flapper wheel sanders for a die grinder work good too.

[fordnut71]

looks really nice.need to stuff some big valves in there now while you have it out.
rob , get to it you seen mine its easy

[nagelandy55]

Wow very nice work. I used polishing flapper type wheels, they worked great.

[radrangerXLT]

Thanks guys,

I just got back from home depot. I found a small rubber drum roll and some 120 grit sandpaper sleeves. Looks like it'll fit right in those tight spots on the far ends of the chambers. I'll post some pics after I finish.

I also started porting the lower intake manifold, wow, just like the E6 there is a ton of material to be ground out.

And Rob, get on that head. Porting is easy, it just takes time.

[Riddle_Rob]

Gah. So lazy. Plus kids. Need moar tools. Lot's of excuses in this guy ;)

[radrangerXLT]

Well guys,

The head is at the machine shop, should be getting tanked as I speak. I'm getting some new Clevite bearings and a fresh freeze plug pressed in, and decked. New seals, springs and HLA's. The guy is also going to pressure test it and make sure all the valve seats are good, if not then I'm having them re-cut.

Let's hope the pressure test goes well or else I just wasted a week porting for nothing:ack2: Fingers crossed! Trying to get this done in time for the meet.

[nagelandy55]

If you ported that head and never touched a valve seat you should be a brain surgen. I put quite a few scuff in my valve seats when i ported mine. Hope it checks out for you.

[AJ_Fritz]

ive done atleast 7 head so far and have yet to touch a seat heheh :biggrin: i was always good at operation too ;)

[radrangerXLT]

Honestly, the exhaust seats were great, didn't even nick them. But the intake seats got buzzed on the outer edge quite a few times. Right before I cc'd the chambers I lapped the seats and it looked like there was enough material all the way around for the valve to seal good.

[rangergt]

Long shanks on the burrs help keep away from the seat. The times I've nicked the seat I was using regular shank burrs and it was the collet that actually nicked the seat.

[radrangerXLT]

Well guys,

the head is still at the machine shop and I've been busy with all kinds of paperwork to transfer out of the university I'm currently enrolled at and start some pre-engineering courses at a better university closer to home. Next 3 to 4 years of my life are going to suck but hopefully they'll pay off one day:P

In other news I've gone through all sorts of hardware I have and wire wheeled/anti-seized them all. I ran my spare accessory brackets through the parts washer also.

Not much out of me lately, too sick to accomplish anything:frown2:

[radrangerXLT]

Not much of an update,

Stopped by the machine shop yesterday, noticed my head has only had the bearings pressed out, tanked and had a freeze plug put in. I'm a little tweaked over it cause it's been a month, but then again he does have other peoples stuff lined up out the door, literally. I just hope he gets it done soon.

Turbo still needs sent out to be rebuilt, if anyone knows of any leads for a good Holset in the $300 range, let me know.

Gaskets & seals came in the mail yesterday, still waiting on head gasket & studs.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/fp.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

Got a little work done yesterday, looks better IMO.:)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/block2.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/block1-1.jpg

[nagelandy55]

Looks brand new!

[Skyy_4life]

gotta love the CLEAN look :rockwoot:

[radrangerXLT]

Progress is slow.

Still need to get crank & oil pump timing gears

Just had to order new cam bearings because the dude at the machine shop must have ordered bearings for a Duratec. I called him yesterday to find out when my head will be done since it's been two months and he tell me that the 95'-00' 2.3 and 2.5 DP heads have different bearings and he can't find the right ones. :hehe: Is he really kidding?? Makes me wonder if he even ordered the new springs and HLA's I asked him to months ago. :toetap05: I ordered new cam & crank position sensors as well.

A good friend of mine hooked me up with a 5.0 TB, going to have the local racing shop weld up a custom intake similar to what Jess has on his 98', only I plan to have the overall height of the plenum a tad shorter so I don't run into clearance issues with the wiper motor. Then I can use the TC valve cover I restored, I'll have some pics up later on.

[radrangerXLT]

Got my head back on the 7th. The dude never ordered valve stem seals for me so I had my boss call the FORD dealership for OEM ones. $1.50 a piece. I've read that the Fel-pro replacements suck. In the mean time, I'm headed to the shop to finish polishing the chambers.

Turbo is on it's way to Charlie. He's going to put in a 360 thrust bearing, machine the compressor housing and put in a T4 wheel (I didn't know you could even do that:crazy:) all for a very reasonable price. This dude rules in my book:yesnod:

I should have the long block assembled by the end of next week. It's looking like I may actually get to drive this thing before snow falls again:hehe:

I'm also a bit torn between DP's. Not sure if I should go for a Stinger or 40Bob 3" DP or one of their modifyed 3" T3 discharge elbows?? I may spring for a discharge elbow since I'm having the turbo upgraded. Any thoughts are appreciated.

[reggioisme]

do you still need timing gears?

[radrangerXLT]

Got some more work done yesterday.

I finished polishing the chambers, they should all be around 60-61 cc's. Final washed the head and put it together. Everything spins smooth as butter at this point so I'm real happy about that.:D

Threw the 1035 on the block and set the head down. Torqued down the studs and put on my 86' TC valve cover after i finished cleaning and painting it. Then put on the ported E6 and called it a day.

It's starting to look like an engine for the first time in almost 2 years!

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/longblock1.jpg

Today I went to home depot to get the correct fitting for the T3 drain flange to oil return line. I also stopped by the shop, painted the head and screwed in the oil feed flange to the head with some permatex.

Once I get the turbo back from Charlie I'll drop the engine in the ranger and start mocking up pipes for the front mount and SQV. Still have tons of work ahead.

[radrangerXLT]

Well the engine is just about all assembled. Just have to figure out what to do with the EGR and EVAP systems and catch can or vent both block and valve cover to atmosphere.

I just finished cleaning the wire harness and re-taping the bad spots, then started to put it back on the engine.

Still have to get the flanges on my E6 milled flat so I can get rid of the manifold gasket that's already on the engine. After that I can put the turbo, feed and return lines on, prime the oil system, set the timing and button up the serpentine components, then into the Ranger!

Still have to buy a clutch (I'm not pulling that damn tranny again!) fuel pump, exhaust, tune and possibly some silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps. Also waiting on John Walko Racing to finish my intake.



It's getting down to the nitty gritty:D

[splatranger95]

I went catch can from crank breather and rear of valve cover. for the vc I drilled a 3/4 npt hole and put a 90 (3/4 reducer to -8) in then ran -8 hose to the catch can. Breather has -10 hose.

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/splatranger95/engine/1011091723.jpg

http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab244/splatranger95/engine/1011091723a.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

Splat,

I like your set-up, I'll eventually hook up a catch can, but for now I'm just going to use the stock TC valve cover and Ranger block oil seperaters and run hoses under the engine.

I've been slacking on the pics lately so I've got a few.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1292.jpg

How the engine sat earlier this morning:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1295.jpg

And my turbo came in a week ago. Evergreen Turbo rebuild. T3 .60/.63 a.r. w/ all new hardware, T04B "M" trim comp wheel that has been lightened by 45 grams, clipped turbine wheel, step-gap race seal and 360 thrust bearing. Charlie even threw in a GN 3" inlet bell and some hardware for the exhaust elbow for free! What a guy!:thumbsup:
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1290.jpg

...And don't worry about that blue fel-pro valve cover gasket, I swapped it out for the stock one on the 2.5L.

[splatranger95]

Quick question. I am about to drill my 95 2.3 block for the oil return fitting, and I was just wondering how you determined where to drill? I was assuming drilling in the same spot as on the tc block, but I kinda wanted to go further back and lower so my return line isnt so short and kinda kinky anymore.

[radrangerXLT]

I just found a spot on the side of the N/A block, similar to stock TC location, that was out of the way of the rotating assembly.

[Agent Ezzard]

Nice set-up man. I'm starting my project slowly and cheaply. Thanks for the thread dude.

[radrangerXLT]

Intercooler is installed! Going to have to fix all the rust on the core support soon.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1299.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1300.jpg

Bad pic, but here's how it looks from the front
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1302.jpg

And I thought I would hide the end tanks so I took the plastic air dams for the A/C and fixed them up like so...
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1305.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

The engine is just about complete. I just need to pull the upper intake back off and drill and tap the EGR port and make a few new ports for WG and BOV, time it and it's good to go!

Also what are you guys gapping your plugs to? I have mine at .030, I think it may be a bit too small.


http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1307.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1308.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1309.jpg

And thanks again, Adam, for the manifold and downpipe.

[gumby]

.030 will be fine. thats where i run mine

also, that 90* compressor outlet looks familiar, did you get that from d94r?

[radrangerXLT]

that 90* compressor outlet looks familiar, did you get that from d94r?

I sure did. I believe it was yours before he had it???

[gumby]

indeed it was. i thought that ugly ass pipe plug looked familiar :hehe:

[AJ_Fritz]

nice!

if i get a good crank it will all be worth it.

i hate selling stuff... i swear to god i get attached to it while i am making it. anyone else get that way?

[rangergt]

nice!

if i get a good crank it will all be worth it.

i hate selling stuff... i swear to god i get attached to it while i am making it. anyone else get that way?

Hell ya but that's a nice lookin' down pipe.

Nice clean looking engine setup.

[radrangerXLT]

Thanks guys, looks like all the hard work is starting to pay off.

Engine is COMPLETE!!!

Had to cut the passenger side motor mount bracket so I could use the port on that side of the block for the turbo coolant return line. Tapped and plugged the EGR port and drilled and tapped two more holes behind the throttle plate for WG and BOV, just need some vacuum line now.

Sometime this week I'll get the engine bay cleaned and paint the frame rails, then I just have a few things to figure out like the turbo coolant feed and MAF.

I also ordered a 6-puck sprung hub from clutchnet, who knows when that thing will show up.

Just need some gauges and a tune!!

[radrangerXLT]

Feeling motivated today :yesnod:

Headed to class now, done at 1:15; I'm getting this engine in today!

[frambach]

I'm getting this engine in today!

:rockwoot:

[radrangerXLT]

:cheers2::rockwoot::D:turbob:

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1312.jpg

[AJ_Fritz]

get me some good pics of that downpipe mounted :)

crank came yesterday, stupid delivery comfirmation lmao... got to wait till thursday now ;(

dont get off in time to get to the post office... stupid 10 hour work days lol!

sigh!

[radrangerXLT]

I sure will. I mocked it in there last night and I think it's going to be a perfect fit. You do fantastic work Adam.

And make sure when you get the crank to inspect the box, I sandwiched that exhaust wastegate puck flange thingy between a couple pieces of cardboard and duct taped it. Should be at the front end of the crank in the box.

Tell me how great of a packing job I did :D

*Just found a UPS slip on the front porch. Clutchnet requests a signature to confirm delivery. Looks like that makes two of us waiting till Thursday.

[radrangerXLT]

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1313.jpg


Now to get the flywheel resurfaced :yesnod:

[radrangerXLT]

Still need a J-bend and a 45 degree bend to finish the IC piping


http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1321.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1315.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1319.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1314.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1320.jpg

[D94R]

indeed it was. i thought that ugly ass pipe plug looked familiar :hehe:

LOL, that part is now a whore. :hehe:

Steve, looking good. I'm glad the turbo is working out for you, and looks like it will work better for you than it did me with them Charlie upgrades :D

[radrangerXLT]

LOL, that part is now a whore. :hehe:

Steve, looking good. I'm glad the turbo is working out for you, and looks like it will work better for you than it did me with them Charlie upgrades :D


C'mon, don't be talking about my baby like that now:D

Thanks Matt,

It should be a ripper with that lightened T4 comp wheel, Adam's downpipe and all the port work I did.


On a side note, I ordered a Walbro 255lph from www.TREperformance.com and I also ordered the rest of the piping and couplers I need to finish up the intake and intercooler systems from www.Siliconeintakes.com.

After I finish all that, tranny is going in and exhaust needs fabbed.

Then it's DONE, minus a tune.

[radrangerXLT]

Sorry for the bad cell phone pic. I'll upload better ones soon.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/SNC00005.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

Got some more work done, Just need to fab up an exhaust and put some gauges in. I got a hold of Jess and he's mailing me the tuner then he's going to make a trip to Pittsburgh and get the truck dialed in with his wideband after I get the bugs worked out.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1345.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1343.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1347.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1346.jpg

Here's my heater box mod, same thing ranger99 did except I used a piece of a gutter down spout.
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1348.jpg

[radrangerXLT]

Just got off the phone with Jess. Tuner is here, gotta fix my starter and I'll be able to start it. Expect a vid by the weekend!

[AJ_Fritz]

glad you got in touch with him hes been a busy fellow lately along with the rest of us.

[quikcobra]

How was the fitment and the wiring? I should be doing this setup very soon. And your setup seem to be clean. I did want to use the dual spark plug head tho on a 80's turbo short block I will rebuild.

[radrangerXLT]

It runs!

Just started it a few minutes ago, idles smooth and the engine is very quiet, lifters aren't as noisy as I had anticipated. I can't do anything other than let it idle as I still need to fix my p/s pump

I'm a very happy guy right now :D

[radrangerXLT]

I know the vid sucks, I'll try to find my g/f's camera and get a better one.



http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/?action=view&current=SNC00009.mp4

[radrangerXLT]

Just had the truck out for a little rip. Man, it's loud as hell with just a downpipe:D

I didn't get into any boost... yet, though it seems to run very well.

I promise to get a vid up soon.

[nagelandy55]

things are looking good! Nice clean setup, what are you hp goals?

[radrangerXLT]

things are looking good! Nice clean setup, what are you hp goals?

Thanks Andreas,

I dunno. I think the set-up is easily capable of making it north of the 300hp mark in the 20psi range. I suppose I'll be happy for now if it puts down those kind of numbers.

I'm sure it's gonna rock once I beat on it :D

[Riddle_Rob]

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p5/snmbikes07/000_1348.jpg

What's all that fancy stuff attached in the middle of the lines there? I'm kinda confused.

[radrangerXLT]

That little actuator in between all the heater hose bypasses the heater core. It's activated by one of the HVAC knobs in the cab. I was trying to show off the heater box mod.

I've also noticed that the vents in the dash do not blow air at all, only the two little defroster vents do. I'm pretty sure one of the vac lines is backwards???

[nagelandy55]

Ya the defrost vents are default if something is wrong or unhooked.

[quikcobra]

Was going from the 2.5L to the 2.3T hard? or was it more a direct swap? I seen you had to do a heater mod are you still running a/c?

[radrangerXLT]

Wow, bringing this one back from the dead!

Last week of class for this semester is over, got a nice little two week break before I start my next class so I got some motivation to get cracking on the truck again. I didn't do anything to it though, just ordered some stuff.

New muffler on the way, Dynomax Ultra flo #17220. Once that gets here I can start fab'n an exhaust. Downpipe not only needs cut and lengthened now, but my brother yanked on it last summer (thought he could bend it :ack2:) and it needs re welded at the top of the turbo flange too.

Still searching for tires too so I can inspect the truck and exempt it, then time to drive it.



And yes, There will be video of it in action! Just have a little patience :moon:

[TANGERINE SKY]

dont mean to keep this one alive but was wondering what u did for tuning?
are u still running the 2000 ecu or did u switch?
thanks