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Old 05-02-2009, 12:01 AM   #21
95turboranger
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You really dont need to load the axle that much but , and yes they will minimize wheel hop ,and to get some more some wieght transfer unless you want to beat to death on regular roads theres no need tp preload a bunch , I have had to make a set of these for a good friend thats pulls a diesel dodge , really heavy duty and they work good ,

Just for reference check these out and the pics custom made 350 bucks
http://calvertracing.com/caltracs.php

hope this helps ..
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:00 PM   #22
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I'm building a set of these as well. I figured most guys forgot about this thread. Super good for guys on a budget.

I'm gonna take pics and post in the how-to section.
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95turboranger View Post
You really dont need to load the axle that much but , and yes they will minimize wheel hop ,and to get some more some wieght transfer unless you want to beat to death on regular roads theres no need tp preload a bunch , I have had to make a set of these for a good friend thats pulls a diesel dodge , really heavy duty and they work good ,

Just for reference check these out and the pics custom made 350 bucks
http://calvertracing.com/caltracs.php

hope this helps ..
From what I was told by a rear end builder the cal would be best for a dd. It alows for the spring to move up and down freely. a leaf spring gets longer as it straightens and needs one of its mounts to move freely, (the shackle). This also pushes the axle to the rear. I think the duff would bind on ruff road and lead to somthing like like a broken "U" bolt, or center bolt.
my $.02
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:53 PM   #24
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a schackle as it moves threw its arc is under commpression an then rebound. so you really dont want it to go pass 90* by much more before it will unload the spring. http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/.../leaf_mods.htm
the spring sliders on this link will let the spring compress without unloading or bind.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:11 AM   #25
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I'm gonna be using 4 heim joints(2 on each on) and pretty good size tubing. I'm gonna weld a nut on both ends, and have a nut to lock it down on both ends.

I'll be able to loosen it up for dd with a 7/8 wrentch in about 2mins. Vice versa when i want traction.

Pretty much same general principal/design as Jess's.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:15 AM   #26
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BTW, nice article fordnut.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:14 AM   #27
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my rear plans are going to be designed for dd an drags.
im planning on usings chevy 1/2 ton springs.
this moves the spring mount 6" forward under the back of the cab.(reg cab short box) it will only have the main leaf top leaf an the next lower 1/2 leaf. then have the sliders in place of the rear schackles. with the home made cal tracks bars this will should act like a ladder bar up front but let the spring in the back half move without binding.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:47 AM   #28
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I don't really get mono leafs, but then again they wouldn't sell them for nothing.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:32 PM   #29
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mono just makes it a softer spring rate.
you can bound up the front half of a spring to make it tight but the back half has to be able to fan the leafs out an move. even class 8 trucks are using monos an leafs n 1/2.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:53 PM   #30
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I don't know how it would work for a dd. Some sand drag trucks pull the leaf springs and put on struts with home made 4 link made with tractor parts like Jess has. The struts are cheap at the jy.
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