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Old 07-31-2010, 02:46 PM   #1
stephensimmons
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Default 1991 Ranger

What do I need to tune my 91 Ranger if i turbo it? I wana run atleast 13lbs of boost and the factory electronics if possible.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:43 PM   #2
jfive
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You need Binary editor, and a quarterhorse, or F3 chip, SCT 4 bank chip, or Megasqirt setup for Plug and Play.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:26 PM   #3
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Here is a link that has some pics of my truck. Im getting ready to lift it back up and lower the front an inch from the stock height so i can get my ride back!

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/intro...rd-ranger.html
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:20 PM   #4
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:24 PM   #5
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let us know when you do and if you decide to post your suspension for sale. I'm sure soeone on here would buy it from you
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:09 AM   #6
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contrary to what jfive posted (lol, by the way!), you don't need anything special. factory electronics and fuel systems were just fine to handle the 15psi that our motors came stock with. so, you should be good trying to run less than stock. i'm not saying that the stock ranger computer can handle that, but any of the stock turbo motor computers can. good luck. wiring was always the hardest part of all of it for me.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:12 AM   #7
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Good point. When you say "factory electronics" , are you referring to wanting to keep the Ranger's ECU and stuff? If so, yes, you will need a tuner. If you consider the T-Coupe's ECU as Ford 'factory' equipment, then just re-pinning and adding a few wires is all that is needed. You will need a donor harness or some other way to get the extra sensor pigtails.
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:19 AM   #8
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Best solution imo is to keep your ranger ecu and custom tune from scratch. Tweecer is the easiest option for chip tuning. Trust me i've tried it all.

Makes no sense to have to rewire the ecu and ditch a maf sensor and convert to a crappy vam. Also running an untuned turbocoupe or svo ecu will not get you the best power or reliability / driveability. Folks with problems with head gaskets / manifold cracking , etc etc are the ones who try to go cheap and convert.



The tune part is simple once you get the basics. I can set anyone up with a good turbo base file for tweecer if you need it.
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:05 AM   #9
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there is an issue with keeping the ranger ecu, besides Having to buy a tuner, some ecus just dont have nearly as much support for tuning as the LA3/PE ecu's. just ask beluga, he is going thru that exact problem. the tune in the LA3 ecu is very conservative for running up to about 300hp with 2 spark tables to choose from also. no they arent a true MAF ecu but now there is a 3rd option of going to SD(speed density) just like a megasquirt.

until recently, you couldnt even raise the rev limit on the ranger/mustang 2.3 ecu.
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:02 AM   #10
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With tweecer you have full control. You have multiple spark tables and adders you can adjust. its not hard. Besdes, who really wants to run stock spark tables from a mid 80's car anyway. Fuel quality has changed a lot since then and now most fuel is 10% ethanol. You would still need to tune for anything other than a bone stock tc motor on stock boost anyway. I guarantee most guys just running a stock tc ecu if they actually got on a dyno with wideband and had a knock sensor added and a pyrometer they would learn that "runs ok" really means I better tune before I melt a valve / keep cracking my manifold and head, or blow a head gasket.

There really is a tight window of the right fuel and timing for every setup.

Too little fuel = knock and high egts

Too little timing = high egts

Too much timing = knock

Too much fuel = fouled plugs, fuel in oil, black smoke from exhaust.


You have maf with a ranger ecu, dont have to rewire, and have full control with tweecer, sniper, qh, sct. You just have to know what you are doing, or pay someone who does.

Beluga is having issues with his setup and also im sure because he doesnt have tuning experience. But in the end when done right he should have the best power, reliability and driveability possible.
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